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Jetta/Bora/Vento TDI Picture Gallery Do you have a Jetta/Bora/or Vento TDI? If so write a message here describing it and insert a picture if you have one. If you don't have one on the computer, email me and I'll give you my address and I'll scan it for you. If you need web space for it, email me as well. Please make a short yet descriptive title for your vehicle.

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Old May 27th, 2018, 14:27   #16
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default update

... 6 months later...
We seem to be doing well. I still hesitate to brag.
We just turned over 290,000 miles.
A few things since my last post:
Bosch starter from idparts.com.
Tail light bulb from Oriellys.
Removed some peeling tint on the back windows.
Oil change. Rotella T6 and Mann filter.
DTC QA upper limit reached.
Clear coat on the hood is getting worse.
I've had to retime the pump a couple of times. Also, checked the cam to assure condition and valve timing. I wish I'd taken some good pictures. Everything looked great, especially considering the miles. Resealed the cover with black RTV. My oil level seems much more consistent.
On our coldest mornings (-5 to +10 f) I'd have to jump it and still had some extended cranking so I bit the bullet on a new starter. Easy install, cleaned all connections. Now she cranks over quick and fires immediately. That's nice after a year of pulling the CTS and rigging a switch. Now I have an unused switch, might use it to hard wire my dash cam.
The new starter and retime really did the job.
So up next, I've ordered an air filter, cabin filter, oil filter, intake manifold bolts, fuel filter and Diesel purge.
My A/C is cold but blows wimpy, my air filter is dirty and seemed to have some oil on it near where the vacuum line attaches to the air box. The manifold was replaced once by the dealer under a previous owner. It doesn't look too bad from the EGR but I could still easily scoop a screwdriver full of gunk so, soon. I may consider an EGR delete and CCV catch-can in the future.
Since I first timed the pump back in Oct, the car has run A LOT better, albeit slower. I still have a few concerns though. It has sort of a "floaty" idle and just a little vibration. That doesn't bother me but when I look at the timing graph it's rather unstable. IQ does the same thing. Both mostly within spec. (note: my accessory belt tensioner is a little floppy as well.)
I've also gotten QA upper limit reached and flashing GP light a few times. At first, the code would come back after being cleared but hasn't for a few weeks now. Still drives the same. (i did notice some "pulsing" while cruising around 2300rpm with A/C on)
Sometimes I feel like it's going good (not a hotrod but able to keep up) sometimes I feel like I have to give it all she's got.
I use the Torque app to watch boost, coolant temp, timing advance, etc.
Boost seems to be registering appropriately. (btw, I really like using the app and setting the boost gauge to show a live graph) Turbo sounds good, nice faint whistle under a medium load, and kind of like a "Hooosshh!" out the back at full pedal with just a little coal fog).
Back to the pump; I've been gathering a lot of info about the internal workings.
Great video https://youtu.be/nd50iJIlvkI

I may eventually attempt the operation.
I also found a great manual on the general operations of the 1.9 . I can't find the link (it's on these forums somewhere) and don't know how to upload a PDF.
I also need to diagnose my cooling fan, I've never seen it run. The passenger side fan comes on with the A/C. It's never gotten over 210F. (note: Coasting in gear brings the temp down quickly.)
And one of these days I'll look into my GP code (p0380).
Need to do the blend door but also need to hook up my radio antenna. I think I may need some kind of adapter. I got a headlight polishing kit off Wish for a few dollars. One of these days.
Anything else? My Amazon $14 shifter has begun peeling at the chrome base. No biggie. Leather(ish) headliner is tolerable. Wrinkled but better than that grey thing flying around.
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Old August 19th, 2018, 15:21   #17
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default QA replaced

Alright. We're at 291,100 miles now and I have some things
to add.
The flashing GP light/QA error (p1562) upper limit reached had been coming up every time. I could clear it with Torque but it would come back at the next startup. Also, over the past month the idle has gotten much more rough. Like a loping that would shake the car. I could smooth it out with just the slightest throttle.
Also Front/driver turn signal went out. Got a new bulb but when I went to change it the insulation on the wires just crumbled off. So, I de-pinned the connector and slid some heat shrink of similar color on as far up as I could.
While trying to get the bulb holder back in the socket, the reflector area popped loose inside the lens. It's still pretty much in place but I'll need to get in there
eventually. I'll try to have a headlight/grill day where I polish and paint.
Also. Also, now getting an ABS light. VCDS says rear/driver. The videos show that usually the sensor is stuck and ends up destroyed so I'll have to have the new one ready. idparts
So today my plan was to replace the quantity adjuster with one from the old pump I got with the car. I first removed the QA from the old pump and cleaned it up. I had new seals ready. I had to de-pin the N108 Commencment of Injection Valve on both pump harnesses. That was the hardest part. I ended up using a saftey pin with the head cut off and ends bent inward, a paper clip was too soft. It took some time and determination but it worked leaving some damage to the old harness. The proper tool may have been worth it but couldn't justify the cost at the time. The actual QA swap was pretty straight forward. The bottom of the QA that I removed from the car had a good amount of filings stuck to the magnetic parts. I'll do an autopsy and take pictures. I did notice that the modulating piston ring was kind of stuck on the plunger shaft. I worked it with a screw driver to free it up a bit. I plan on running a Diesel Purge with new filter soon. I might go ahead and do two. I made sure the eccentric shaft went back in the hole on the ring.
After the hammer mod the IQ is still shaky between 2.5 and 5. But so far no p1562. The idle is much more smooth, no more lope. The sound might be a little deeper as well. On my test drive, I could still feel a little hesitation around 2200-2300 rpm.
I noticed I may have a bit of a leak on injector #1, VCDS showed no noticeable deviation. It's got new seals but I have another set somewhere.
I'll report back at the next significant operation.
And for the record, I love this car.
"VW: making mechanics out of owners since 1937"
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Old September 12th, 2018, 12:01   #18
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default Abs n tire rotation/unrotation.

Ok. Swapped out my ABS sensor on the rear driver side. The code cleared when I hit about 30mph. Good stuff.
I also took this opportunity to rotate my tires. (Cooper CCS Grand Touring on stock rims) on my test drive I noticed a vibration with a slight grind, felt in the brake pedal. Worse while braking.
Rechecked everything. Axles too. Drove it for a week with no improvement. On my highway trip I was getting a significant howl/light thump. I figured my wheel bearings were shot after 290k. Theory was different tires loaded the bearing in a slightly different way. So...
I fixed my headlight, the reflector had popped loose from the adjustment stud. I went ahead and removed the bumber and took both lights out for polishing. My drill died so it was mostly by hand with the drill attachment and some clay-like glass polish. They look nice and seem brighter. The bulb that I replaced (driver turn signal) only works on hazard and turn, not parking light. Might try to figure that out one day. The wires inside the housings had crumbly insulation so I did as much shrink tube as I could. Eventually might get updated lights.
Today, I rotated the tires back to their original positions and like magic we're back to smooth sailing.
I'm sure I'll be doing wheel bearings at some point. Probably along with my clutch.
So I've been having a bit of a skip in the mid rpms as noted in previous posts. I think this could be my clutch slipping. It is the original with 290k miles on it. I also may be getting some sticky vnt symptoms.
My pump with "new" clean qa seems to be doing well. Idle is much more consistent. However, I feel that the timing advance portion is still a bit gummed up. I can watch the timing advance graph on Torque while driving and it seems to fluctuate in sync with my mid rpm skip.
I'll get to that timing belt probably next spring hopefully. While it's apart I'll clean that valve on the bottom of the pump.
What else... I put on some new center caps (~$20 off amazon) worthless, the tabs broke on installation. I'll go capless for now.
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Old October 10th, 2018, 19:18   #19
Veteran Member
3L3M3NT's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sturgeon Bay, WI

It looks that the car keeps you pretty busy with all those maintenance items that come up on a higher mileage TDI. It's great to see you keeping it going with 290,000 miles and I'm sure there are more, since your post was close to a month ago. I know 99% of people out there would have taken it in to get scrapped, since they don't have the same passion for TDIs like everyone on here does. Keep it up and I'm sure in no time you'll hit 400,000 miles.

As far as your headlights, like you mentioned, it's probably time for some new ones. Depending on what you want to spend and the light output you're looking for here are a few options.

You could try Jeff at Midwest Light Creations right here on TDIClub.
Or his website: http://www.midwestlight.biz/

Next is some options from VX Tuning.
E-Codes https://www.vxtuning.com/shop/vehicl...iv-jetta-bora/
FX-R Retrofits in Black https://www.vxtuning.com/shop/vehicl...ora-pre-order/
FX-R Retrofits in GLI Styling https://www.vxtuning.com/shop/vehicl...ora-pre-order/
If you really wanna light up the road you could get these Quad Projector headlights.
To help protect you new lights, I always recommend installing Lamin-X on the headlights to prevent chips, cracks, and yellowing of the headlights.
The factory lights don't come with City/Parking lights, but if you were to get the E-Codes, they do and to use that featured you need a European headlight switch to replace your factory headlight switch.
Like so... https://www.vxtuning.com/shop/vehicl...at-new-beetle/
If you feel like rehabing your existing headlights you could upgrade to glass lenses that never yellow.
Since you mentioned the current wiring inside your headlights isn't doing, so great, you could replace it with this replacement wiring harness.

Good luck with the headlights and the rest of the car. Like I mentioned it's great seeing you rehab the car and keeping it on the road vs going to the crushers.
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Old October 16th, 2018, 09:28   #20
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY

3l3m3nt, Thank you. It's nice to know some people are still interested in this sort of progress and have the time and patients to sit through my novel.
It would have been easy to throw in the towel. I'm sure I could sell it and get enough to buy a decent Corolla or whatever but, I'm the type that likes to know how things work, It's a conversation piece that'll get ~50mpg. It's a quirky car for sure. I'd like a wagon, of course for cargo space.
And Thanks for the links on headlights. I do need something. Mine are good for now, the polish really helped. I will upgrade in the future but I've gotta put my money where it's needed most, atm. As for visibility, my windshield is the problem. No big cracks but 300k of road dust has done a number when it comes to glare at night.
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Old November 30th, 2018, 13:27   #21
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default A few new things

I replaced my serpentine belt tensioner thinking it maybe affecting my idle. Turns out it was missing a bolt, come to find out the hole in the bracket for the longest bolt is stripped out. Guess I'll get some thread inserts or tap it for a bigger bolt. Two are holding it solid for now. I check it often. The new tensioner had no effect.
New fuel filter and double Diesel Purge.

I had to do another timing and IQ adjustment. The timing seemed to have slipped way behind (belt etc in good shape). I also bumped the IQ up to around 6 or 7. That really smoothed things out. I've got no smoke but still some hesitation. Could be the clutch slipping.

Also I've gotten my old QA Upper Limit code returning on occasion. I'm thinking my pump is worn out. When I swapped QAs the old one had debris collected on the magnetic parts gumming up the works. My pump seems pretty loud too. I may just shop for a new one.

One more thing. My temp gauge is acting funny. The other day, I started it up warm and the needle went to just below one mark past 190*. Torque read normal. When I shut it off, I turned the key back on and the needle went to 190* like normal. The fuel gauge reads high also when this happens.
So, on occasion, my fuel gauge and temp gauge both read almost one mark too high. Temp behaves normally through Torque. I was thinking CTS but the fuel gauge is affected too. Any thoughts?

Last edited by djembeing; November 30th, 2018 at 13:30.
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