Troubleshoot new clutch master cylinder issue

My 2000 Jetta GLS TDI, manual, was having shifting/clutch problems recently. While stuck in traffic with the clutch in I noticed the syncro mesh was locking me out of first gear and when I was in first gear with the clutch depressed I could tell the clutch was still slightly grabbing. It was barely noticeable, but I could tell the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. I talked to a friend who convinced me to try to replace the clutch master cylinder.

I successfully replaced the clutch master cylinder and bled the system. I am not confident the system is fully bled though. I took the car for ride around the block to see how the repair went. The syncros felt great again and the clutch felt super grabby again,I have a consistent and strong friction point. So I was feeling pretty good about the repair EXCEPT.... the friction point is now 1/4" off the floor. Prior to the repair work it was about two inches from the top of the pedal travel. I also noticed the clutch pedal doesn't feel as stiff as I remember. Having been driving the car for over a decade I know the clutch is softer than it should be.

Am I experiencing air in the line? Do I need to bleed the system more? Does the new clutch master cylinder (clutch pedal system) have a friction point height adjustment I need to adjust?

Thanks for reading this post, and thanks to those that chime in with any help. I must confess I am posting this before searching the forums for a solution. If I do find a solution soon I'll edit the post accordingly.

Run a line from the brake calliper bleed nipple to the clutch slave bleed nipple and with the cap off the reservoir gently pump the brake pedal. The air will get pushed back up and out the reservoir without draining the fluid.

Sounds like a good idea. The way I bled the system was according to the Bentley manual. I was confused as to why it had me bleed the system by pulling air out of the lowest part of the system. I like your method, seems logical to fill from the lowest point. Thanks!

Here's a twist if you can easily remove the slave cylinder. Remove the slave cylinder, keep it pointed down best you can. Compress the pushrod in completely, allow it to extend and repeat several times.

Your describing an air bubble, your pedal reserve travel is not what it was, catches right off of the floorboard.

By compressing the slave cylinder you are pushing air up and out thru the system. Your piston port design master cylinder will allow the bubbles to pop out into the reservoir.