darkmanCANADA
Well-known member
Got my intake, TIP, catless DP, Magnaflow exhaust and 205 injectors done. Am I approaching the limit of the stock clutch of my 2001 Jetta TDI?
Mine is holding up with RC6 and PP502's, I am also an exception, I have driven it for a year so far.Lex4TDI4Life said:my clutch is holding fine with PP520s and RC2. but i think i am the exception to the rule. i bet things will change once winter rolls around.
A little over 200 ft*lbs sounds about right. I've seen numbers ranging from 210-225 ft*lbs for the stock clutch rating. It's consistent with most modded TDI owner's experiences where a chip tune and a nozzle upgrade like 0.205 nozzles almost always equals a clutch upgrade.Bob_Fout said:I'd always heard 200 ft-lb or a little more.
Depending on which 0.205 nozzles, you could be close to that.
yes the 99.5 had the 228mm dual mass luk clutch i believe which is rated at about 270lbsft but is reported by most to hold allot more instead of the earlier ones like mine which had the crap 220mm and holds bugger all at the momentDankcorey22 said:iv heard the 99.5 were built with a stronger clutch is that true?
Stock 2003 clutch does not withstand PP764s and the 17/22. That's over 300 ft-lb...crazyrunner33 said:I'm still using my stock clutch with no problems. I have a VR6 Valeo clutch in my trunk waiting to be installed but I don't see any point if my stock clutch isn't slipping yet.
Once you let go of the clutch, there's no abuse to it. Unless you make frequent burn outs, your clutch won't suffer when spinning out of turns. All the stress goes to your diff, gearbox and shafts... and of course, tires.shizzler said:Good thread - I wanted to know this too. Too chicken to make my own thread and ask it.
I have my initial q-loader tune running but was waiting on the nozzles (PP520) until I had fundage for a clutch. Now I'm thinking I'll throw them in and just take a little more easy.
How long could the stock clutch handle roasting one tire through 1st or 2nd gear while accelerating through turns? Over rough pavement? Do you guys think the clutch slippage is driven by drivetrain shock or more from the long-term torque over its rating?
IndigoBlueWagon said:250 crank is the rating, I believe. I could get my clutch to slip occasionally in IBW with RC3 and everything else stock, and that was probably at about 225/230 wheel torque. When I added PP520s (in December, duh) it was over in the first drive. It would slip in 3rd, 4th, or 5th. Of course at that point the car had 100K on it so that matters, too.
Rule of thumb with stock clutch: Tune is OK, nozzles are OK, but not both.
Some of the earlier models came with a LUK clutch from the factory that is able to handle a bit more power without slipping. Later ALH's came with Sachs clutches that are a little more prone to slipping whenever any 2 power mods are combined (nozzles/chip/tuning box).MAXRPM said:So I must be the exception,having the tune and nozzles at the same time, and the stock clutch holding on very strong
My last test on 2003 alh . modded some map to get 110cv 268nm @ 3600rpm hard cutoff at 3902rpmStock 2003 clutch does not withstand PP764s and the 17/22. That's over 300 ft-lb...
First off, i do enjoy seeing old threads get revived.My last test on 2003 alh . modded some map to get 110cv 268nm @ 3600rpm hard cutoff at 3902rpm
Then i drop evry mod at 700ohm over the setup .
I think i exeed a litle bit but clutch seem not slip yet . you are probably right .all my mecanich are fukin virgin oem
...Necrothread...I got lucky with my 2001, I installed .205's and Stage 3 tune and I never had any clutch slippage even 120k miles later; my clutch was over 200k miles old at that time.
funny, I was running pp764s with the 10mm pump, burning clean with 5v across the QAThe Sachs clutch in my 03 wagon cannot hold all the fuel available from stock nozzles and stock 10mm pump.