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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old May 12th, 2007, 09:04   #1
stronzo
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Default new turbo gauge installed

Hey guys I got my new turbo boost gauge installed yesterday. most people didn't want to install it for me because they weren't sure where to tap into.

So I found this performance shop that deals with installing gauges, but the guy could not get the gauge to work. I notice he was trying many different ways to hook up the tubing. Right behind the turbo where the little rubber hoses are, thats where he was trying to get the pressure from by the looks of things.

But he finally got feat up & said this way will work for sure, so what I notice next what he did is he drilled A hole on the plastic pipe that goes from the inter cooler to the turbo & thats where he tapped into to get the pressure.

So it works, but I'll get some pictures today to post & if someone can tell me if this is A proper way of doing things.

I just got little concerns of A slight buzzing or kind of like vibrating sound from the gauge when the boost kicks in is this normal for gauges to do that.

now the other thing is my boost pressure seem to be accurate like the guy said when they did my relash

I'm sustaining 17-18PSI with A 22PSI spike but what I realized is if I'm cruising 80km/h or so in 4th gear, & then step on the gas my spike goes to 29PSI is that NORMAL
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Old May 12th, 2007, 09:35   #2
tmophoto
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I am not sure about the pressures but the buzzing is normal for a mechanical gauge. the electronic gauges dont have that (no tubing running into the car).
did that guy take the intercooler pipe off before he drilled it? that is a good place to put the fitting but you really shoudl take the ic pipe out of the car and clean it out after drilling so the plastic shavings from the drill dont get sucked into the engine.
i just installed one last week and put it on the plastic pipe from the intercooler to the intake.
you might want to put in a boost valve to limit the peaks. they are really cheap and very easy to install boostvalve

t
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Old May 12th, 2007, 09:59   #3
Satiro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmophoto
I am not sure about the pressures but the buzzing is normal for a mechanical gauge. the electronic gauges dont have that (no tubing running into the car).
did that guy take the intercooler pipe off before he drilled it? that is a good place to put the fitting but you really shoudl take the ic pipe out of the car and clean it out after drilling so the plastic shavings from the drill dont get sucked into the engine.
i just installed one last week and put it on the plastic pipe from the intercooler to the intake.
you might want to put in a boost valve to limit the peaks. they are really cheap and very easy to install boostvalve

t
My boostgauge has a tubing running into the car but never buzz, at any boost. Is made for HP-Raid...
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Old May 12th, 2007, 10:32   #4
stronzo
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Default RE: tmophoto

Yes the tubbing goes through the car & did disconnect the inter cooler pipe when he drilled through . & cleaned

But is it really worth it for the boost valves

I'll get some pictures A bit later of the installation & gauge

& for the buzzing sound it's not overly that loud at all & it is an isspro gauge

I hope it's good enough quality
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Old May 12th, 2007, 12:31   #5
sportsguy
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Actually, this is common - lots of folks tap into the intercooler pipe to get the pressure for the gauge.

As for the buzzing, lots of people report that with some mechanical gauges.

As for the boost spikes, others will need to chime in on that.
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Old May 12th, 2007, 13:12   #6
dieseleux
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I make a retriction with a WD40 red tube at the connection with intake tube.
Gauge is more smooth and no or very little buzz sound.
If buzz is still to big with red tube, install a small (very small) air tanks (ex.:gaz filter) or more longer tube to gauge.


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Old May 12th, 2007, 16:19   #7
stronzo
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Default gauge tapped into the inter cooler

Can you see the small tube going to the inter cooler before the turbo not after. I hope i'ts ok like this.http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/Image002.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...Image001-1.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/Image000.jpg
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Old May 12th, 2007, 16:35   #8
Fourdiesel
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"Buzzing" or vibration of the needle is common with Isspro pressure gages. A small enough restriction in the pressure line will eliminate this. I had an Isspro gage on my '83 Mitsu Turbodiesel PU that 'buzzed' until the needle fell off the gage! The buzzing is caused by pressure waves generated by the intake valves closing. If the pressure tap is as far away as possible from the valves (think at the turbo outlet) the fluctuations are at the minimum. If that's not enough - or is too hard to do, a restrictor or dampener must be used. Some other brands of gages have built in restrictors.
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Old May 12th, 2007, 17:07   #9
stronzo
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Thanks fourdiesel now I know that it is common for some gauges to buzz
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Old May 12th, 2007, 18:12   #10
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My gauge (VDO) only buzzes when it's below freezing out.
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Old May 12th, 2007, 19:17   #11
stronzo
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Default Boost valve

our A boost valve really necessary if you have too much spike, my car sometimes spikes in every gear to 25PSI to 29PSI

But if I had A boost valve whats the real benefit, will it make the car run better at lower speed meaning more torque.

Or is it just A waist of money. I'd like more opinion before I buy one if theres any benefits
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Old May 12th, 2007, 19:24   #12
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It will preserve your turbo. It will also prevent going into limp mode if your spikes get really high. If your car is stock than boost spikes that high are not normal and your vanes (assuming you have a VNT) may be sticking. You may also have a vacuum leak near your N75 or the N75 is failing.
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Old May 13th, 2007, 07:51   #13
stronzo
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Default RE:2footbraker

Preserving the turbo sounds good what does it mean when the car goes into limp mode

My car is A 2004 golf Tdi-Pd & I'm assuming it came with the stock vnt-15
is this correct ,can you confirm this

when you say something about turbo sticking whats going to stick heres A picture of my turbo, do you mean that flap that you see there will stick.

Can any one tell me if this is A healthy turbo inside VW dealer says needs Attention
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a....jpg:confused:
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Old May 13th, 2007, 07:53   #14
stronzo
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Default Sorry heres my turbo

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...t/Image014.jpg
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Old May 13th, 2007, 08:11   #15
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Limp mode is when the ECU sees much higher levels of boost than it's requesting and it basically retards boost and fuel to save the engine/turbo form self destruction. You'll notice it when the car goes into safe mode because it will run, but it'll feel like there's no power. Turning the key off then on again will reset it.

Your '04 PD uses a KP39 turbo, not a vnt15 like the ALH or non-PD TDI's prior to '04. Spikes up to 26+ psi are not good on any stock turbo and your chip-tuner should be made aware of the situation and should be able to correct it.

Regarding the turbo vanes sticking, our turbos have moveable vanes that the ECU adjusts the angle of in order to spool the turbo up quicker form lower rpms and to keep the are flowing at higher rpms. It's almost like having 2 turbos, a smaller faster spooling one to get off the line and a larger one for high rpm driving. Sometimes these vanes get stuck and don't adjust which can cause boost variations or spikes.

A boost valve is a check valve that, once installed, allows you to adjust and set how much boost will be allowed before the valve will open and release excessive boost. It is good fail-safe measure but again your chip-tuner should be able to fix the problem.

One thing a boost valve is beneficial for is it keeps boost levels from dropping off drastically after a spike. The ECU sees boost spikes and pullsback boost/fuel to counter the spike, which lessens your car's performance becuase it then has to build up boost again. A boost valve allows boost levels to remain constant because it eliminates spikes so the ECU doesn't pull back power.
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