fuel filter and brake fluid flush maintenace

Hi Guys, could you explain to me the importance of a fuel filter replacement?

Also, could you explain the importance of a brake fluid flush? Thanks in advance.

Fuel filter is very important, should be done when VW says to do it. Check the bowl for water and contamination.

Brake fluid flush, meh.

Brake fluid likes to suck in water.

over time, it gets gunked up.

the VW periods of maintenance are conservative, but after several years, you can tell the difference in fluid color.

you don't want to go ten years, but six months over is not a huge issue.

Brake fluid attracts and retains moisture. ABS pump doesn't like moisture. That's why it's important to flush the fluid. Doesn't take long or cost much, so why not do it? However, I wouldn't freak out if you don't do it precisely every two years.

We had the brake fluid flush done on schedule....and I had the courtesy dealer VISA to pay for it. This, even though we've never flushed the brakes in any other ABS car we've owned, and had no problems.
As far as the fuel filter is concerned, given what I've read on this issue (this is our first diesel) this is not an item one should put off. I've asked for the used filters to be returned, and changed one myself, but only the latter enables one to look into the canister holding the filter element, shine a light down there and see if there is garbage, or, probably more important, water.
Changing out the fuel filter in the CKRA cars is simplicity itself. Put paper towels around the housing to avoid spills, remove the 5 Torx bolts, pull up the cover, remove the old filter element gently to avoid spillage. Use a light to look down into the bottom of the bowl for gunk or water (there wasn't anything but clear fuel in ours when I looked). SLOWLY lower the new element into the canister, then top it up to the brim with fresh diesel or Power Service (you will be pouring into the dirty side of the filter, so don't worry). Bolt the cover back down, restart the car* and check for leaks.
*DISCLAIMER: Standard service procedure for our Passat calls for running the tank pump for a minute or so using VCDS, which I did because I have VCDS. Other people I've read who have done this filter change just top up the canister after inserting a new filter, bolt the lid down and restart, and the car starts and runs immediately. But I feel compelled to add= YMMV.

The brake fluid flush isn't really a reliability issue, it's more a cost of repair issue. But considering that most of the brake system components these days are not rebuildable, I'm on the fence.

But it does make a difference. I collect Rovers, and I've had 40 year old cars (the majority) that had never had a fluid change, and all the cylinders & callipers were toast, compared with a couple that had regular changes that only required rebuild kits and a quick hone of the bore to return to perfect condition.

Yours
Vern

Rico567 said:

SLOWLY lower the new element into the canister, then top it up to the brim with fresh diesel or Power Service (you will be pouring into the dirty side of the filter, so don't worry). Bolt the cover back down, restart the car* and check for leaks.

Click to expand...

To be clear, when the filter is OUT, you are looking at the dirty side. When the filter is in place and all you see is the foam rubber gasket and the hole in the middle, the clean side is in that hole - don't pour into the hole.

You do not need to refill the housing. Just key the car on and off once or twice before starting. You can hear the electric fuel pump work a bit harder when the housing is full again.

There is a lot of discussion in another thread on whether cycling the key on an NMS Passat will fill the canister. I came away thinking it does not. But no problem, just fill it mannually and it will start right up. At least mine does. No VCDS needed.

I flipped the key on for a second with the filter removed, instant gigantic mess- so yes the key does cycle the tank pump!

jrm said:

I flipped the key on for a second with the filter removed, instant gigantic mess- so yes the key does cycle the tank pump!

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We have the '13 Passat SEL with Kessy (push button start), and turning on the ignition (pressing the button without putting foot on brake) will not turn on the tank pump. When I did our fuel filter, I tried it both that way and with VCDS, and found that there was a very audible pump sound coming from the back with VCDS, and nothing turning the ignition on.
Going by the experience of many in this forum (including this thread), the method of just filling the canister to the brim after lowering the new filter element in works just fine. Be sure, as one poster noted, to put a finger over the center hole in the filter element, because that is the clean side of the filter, and top up by pouring into the slots on the outside.

great advice, I never thought about kessy as that makes perfect scene not to have the pump run unless your ready to start er up. and yes the pump is pretty loud

Any good instructions / tutorials on doing the brake fluid flush?

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder

is helpful
is too

https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages/instructional-videos shows a few videos

helpful hints:

be real sure to check the seal to the master before adding fluid. pump up and wait. jack up the first wheel, if you like, then relieve top and add fluid. if it leaks, you have a mess and brake fluid eats paint.

second, understand that the bleed screws only need to be tight enough to not leak. there are specs for the torque, and they are pretty light. if in doubt, get a 1/4 inch torque wrench and make sure you know how to set and use it before touching the car.


on my Jetta, I have to pull the battery to get enough room to work on the brake master. you may not, but I did.

Rico567 said:

We have the '13 Passat SEL with Kessy (push button start), and turning on the ignition (pressing the button without putting foot on brake) will not turn on the tank pump. When I did our fuel filter, I tried it both that way and with VCDS, and found that there was a very audible pump sound coming from the back with VCDS, and nothing turning the ignition on.
Going by the experience of many in this forum (including this thread), the method of just filling the canister to the brim after lowering the new filter element in works just fine. Be sure, as one poster noted, to put a finger over the center hole in the filter element, because that is the clean side of the filter, and top up by pouring into the slots on the outside.

Click to expand...

On our '13 SEL, the pump DOES run when the ignition is turned on. I verified this by removing the filter and emptying the canister, and laying the cover back on the canister, then turned on the ignition (with foot off brake) for a few seconds, then observed fuel in the canister. I had some fuel handy in case it didn't work, but now I know that it does. I did hear the pump run when I did this. Quick and easy check, and once you know if it works or not, you can proceed accordingly in the future.

fredthe said:

On our '13 SEL, the pump DOES run when the ignition is turned on. I verified this by removing the filter and emptying the canister, and laying the cover back on the canister, then turned on the ignition (with foot off brake) for a few seconds, then observed fuel in the canister. I had some fuel handy in case it didn't work, but now I know that it does. I did hear the pump run when I did this. Quick and easy check, and once you know if it works or not, you can proceed accordingly in the future.

Click to expand...

This is interesting. I may do this when the 60K fuel filter change comes up....