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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 1st, 2020, 11:11   #16
oilhammer
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You are new here.... so you do not know just how common the converter issue is. VAG does. They have a TSB about it. This is VERY old news here. I have done about 50 of them (I just did one in one of my own Passats). And probably diagnosed 50 more.

We are just trying to save you the headache of messing around with it. Not being negative, just truthful. You titled this thread "advice, guidance, and stupid questions".

Here is some more advice (and keep in mind, it is probably worth more than you paid for it): if you keep driving the car with the failed converter, you'll trash the transmission. And you do not even want to know what that'll cost you.
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Old April 1st, 2020, 11:15   #17
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I kept my original (bad) TC when i had mine replaced 2 summers ago. If you're looking for a core to send to Eriksson, let me know. I think they charge $300 or $350 to rebuild, and then you have shipping costs in both directions, but rumor is Eriksson is the U.S. rebuilder for Sachs/ZF so it's probably the closest you can get to OE new. Quite a bit less than $1300 for OE replacement. PM me if interested.
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Old April 2nd, 2020, 08:09   #18
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cool.
very appreciative everyone's input and respect to those that are more knowledgeable than i. you know what they say about asking stupid questions

it appears that my repair on the EGR valve is not functioning properly. guess it's back to the guinness can for now. looks like i can get just the solenoid for about $100 (OEM) or a new pierberg valve for around $150. guessing that a junkyard part would be a waste of time and be just as bad as mine.

that is a kind offer, zambee. i'm sending you a pm

lastly, i would like to pull the TCC control valve to inspect, clean and test it. i do know that the ATF that came out was dirty AF, had probably never been changed and that given that fact, i will probably need a rebuilt valve body to completely alleviate my problem. the TCC valve is located on the driver side, on top of the trans, correct?
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Old April 2nd, 2020, 10:14   #19
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Where is that facepalm pic....
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Old April 2nd, 2020, 11:51   #20
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My two cents here: your transmission is at 150,000 miles already according to post 1. You apparently need a TC or will in the near future. If the auto transmission in the B5.5 Passat TDI is not maintained religiously from day 1 they tend to fail, often between 150,000 and 200,000 miles. Lots of posts on here about that. Which is why those that want to keep the car for a long term and drive lots more miles eventually swap to a manual transmission.

If your long term plans for the car are to keep it for a long time and put 100,000 more miles on it, you really should consider a swap before investing in the new TC on an transmission with 150000 miles and unknown prior maintenance. If the OP's car was mine, and I did want to keep it a long time and drive it a lot, I would do a swap to the 5-speed manual without hesitation.
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Old April 3rd, 2020, 14:17   #21
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One other tidbit I will throw out about the B5.5 and its well-documented auto transmission issues: I look at the local Craigslist postings for this model for sale (2004-2005, BHW engine) just for laughs, and, by reading the postings, typically at least half of the cars for sale either a) have a bad transmission or TC and the owner is just dumping the car, b) have a rebuilt transmission, or c) are manually swapped. Of the cars with 150-200K miles the postings often say nothing about the transmission, but buyer beware . . .
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Old April 3rd, 2020, 14:23   #22
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thank you for that, Tom. i wish that a manual swap was in the cards, but it's just not right now. i have however, taken up Zambee500 on his generous offer to provide a core TC to me for rebuild. it is in the works and should be @ the rebuilder sometime next week.

i do appreciate the slap in the face that this is a major issue that will eventually kill my trans and making this repair has become priority #1 for me.
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Old April 3rd, 2020, 17:27   #23
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'bus, I truly wish you good luck. There is a lot to like about these cars, once the issues are sorted out. As you go forward and ask more questions, trust what Oilhammer says, he probably knows more about these cars than anyone else on the planet.
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Old April 4th, 2020, 09:36   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzdiesel View Post
A TC should be less than that and a swap likely more.
Welcome and IMHO you have one of VWs best overall vehicles everbuilt. I regret selling my previous 1 owner 04 last summer. If I had it to do over Id 6m it. I can relate to your past experiances with owning older VWs. Ive had my share starting with a 59 Baja bug , 57 bus, 76, 87 vanagon, 80 something convertable rabbit, multiple pickups and presently a JSW and a 83 IDI 1.6 pickup.

These guys arent being harsh really just stating how vital money put toward the Ross Tech. It took me awhile to get how vital it is. Youre getting this input from some extreemly knowlegable VW guys

What part of Arizona are you located?
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Old April 4th, 2020, 12:40   #25
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One other thing I note about Post # 1: "timing belt was "done @ 80k" and guessing by the slight vibration around 2k RPM, the BSM was deleted at that time."

If I were you, I would not want to be "guessing" about whether or not the BSM has been deleted in the vehicle. If you go ahead with a timing belt job, verify and if it still there then go the delete route. Kits with the ALH style oil pump are available. That is what I did when I did my first timing belt at 60,000 miles in 2017, with new motor mounts, full service of the transmission, and other misc. maintenance while the car was apart.
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Old April 5th, 2020, 07:31   #26
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If you replace the tc as soon as it shows failure by code, your chances of further transmission damage are far less. Trans will overheat not locking up in 5th and you'll be replacing whole trans rather than just tc. Eriksson tc's are very good, and are quite reasonable in cost. I parked mine as soon as it threw the code, replaced with Eriksson, and its been no problem since, that was 5 years ago.
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Old April 5th, 2020, 14:42   #27
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The friction material on the tc lockup are quite thin, when the tc is trying to lock up when they are worn through, its metal to metal which nicely contaminates the whole system. And the vb is in the bottom pan area. Dropping the pan , changing filter, fluid such as Pentocin is highly recommended, and look for chunkies, but any further let someone who knows. Eriksson will do as much or little as you want if you send it to them. Full rebuilds were mid 2k's.
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Old April 6th, 2020, 13:15   #28
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thanks to all for your input.

i am able to keep the TC locked if i'm light on the throttle and have even pulled over to cycle the key when it won't go back into lock. the fluid & filter was replaced with Pento ATF1 almost right away after purchase. maybe i should consider another change with one of the cheaper options just to keep it fresh? i will have to drive it 100+ miles just to get it home, parked and to my preferred mechanic.

on another topic, i've been wondering about the fuel tank vent and how to use it. the owner's manual is pretty vague. when i press the valve i can hear it vent and then can fit in a bit more fuel. if i go slow with the valve pressed i can fit over a gallon of additional fuel, but how do i know when to stop?
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Old April 7th, 2020, 18:42   #29
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You stop when the fuel (not foam) is visible in the filler neck.

for convenience, most remove the guts of the vent valve so that one no longer needs to press the little nub each time.
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Old April 8th, 2020, 04:28   #30
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You didn't mention dropping the pan, changing filter when you changed the fluid. Your description of 5th lockup failure just confirms tc is shot and no amount of wishing will make it better. One way perhaps to tell if it still has bsm in it is that if it has been deleted, it will take 5L of oil to fill rather than the original 4L.
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