2001 ALH into 2001 Ford Ranger Edge

Mykl8 said:

Pardon me! I was thinking you were on Vancouver Island but that was http://gastodiesel.tdconversions.com/

You must get similar weather to Slave Lake.

I got a parts car for my swap, can you reprogram the ECU to remove the key chip etc for the swap?

Mike

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Quesnel is just south of Prince George.

I am a full Malone Tuning dealer - I have all the tools to do 1995 to 2015 TDI ECUs. So yes, removing the immobilizer is no problem as well as other things like EGR / MAF / ASV etc as well as adding a little more happiness when you press the go pedal. Feel free to PM me on the full details of what we can do for conversion purposes!

Finally got a fuel mileage figure to report. The drive was from the Huskey Station on the south side of Prince George BC to the SuperSave on the North side of of Quesnel. Temperature was around +2C, driving at a consistent 2200 to 2300 rpm which was about 105km/h to 108km/h which is pretty average for the traffic on this highway. There are some decent hills and I put my foot into it to drive these hills, so not trying to hypermile or anything like that.

Total fuel used was 8.6L - this was filling up each time until I just saw the fuel sitting in the neck opening. Total distance traveled 114km so that translates into 7.5L per 100km or 31.3 miles/us gallon or 37.6 miles/uk gallon. In Canuck bucks that means $9 for the trip!

I am very impressed! Considering the 3.0L V6 that was in there routinely got 14L/100km and I had to down shift to go up big hills - what a truck! Same trip would have been $14 with today's fuel prices. Too bad Diesel right now is more expensive than gasoline.

That looks promising for my B truck!
I just scored a like new turbo at the Cow Town PnP barely any rust on it!

How much does your truck weigh after conversion? Less than with the V6?

Mykl8 said:

That looks promising for my B truck!
I just scored a like new turbo at the Cow Town PnP barely any rust on it!

How much does your truck weigh after conversion? Less than with the V6?

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I don't have exact numbers, but the truck weighed less after the conversion - maybe 50kg or so.

Wow, I just found some specs online and my old Mazda is 300lbs heavier than your truck.
2001 3L single cab 4x2 is 3133lbs
1992 B2600i ext cab 4x4 is 3430lbs

Although the ext cab 4x4 is 3584lbs

Mykl8 said:

Wow, I just found some specs online and my old Mazda is 300lbs heavier than your truck.
2001 3L single cab 4x2 is 3133lbs
1992 B2600i ext cab 4x4 is 3430lbs

Although the ext cab 4x4 is 3584lbs

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I'd weigh mine today, but there is a canopy on it and also a 4x4 transmission, transfer case and all the other parts to make it into a 4x4 in the back right now along with six sand bags. 31x10.5 tires SUCK in snow. Next winter 215/85R16 for sure (and will be 4x4!) and this summer I will have 235/85R16 Mud Terrains on it!

My Ranger Edge is, well, half way to a 4x4 now. It's a 2WD with High and Low range! Out came the noisey 2WD transmission and slipping stock clutch and in went a 4WD transmission and a Ceterforce clutch. The transfer case is a manual one with the floor leaver a 1994 Ford Explorer 4 door, along with the drive shaft and everything fits like a glove!

If anyone is interested in a 2" machined drive shaft spacer and bolts for their conversion let me know as I don't need mine anymore.

Next is the front differential, axles shafts and manual locking hubs install - but not until April when my insurance runs out.

This weekend I will be installing the first CAN2DASH unit off of the production line! This means glow plug and check engines lights, tachometer, speedometer and coolant signals for the Ford instrument cluster right from the CAN bus! So no more low reading 6 cylinder tachometer, scaling the Ford speedometer impulse to show the correct speed and the coolant gauge will now read in the correct spot as well!

Hopefully next weekend I will get the Ford two wire Cruise Control system working with the Volkswagen ECU as well!

Great update, inspiring work.

You have a PM Hasenwerk

Installing a Vehicle Speed Sensor

Decided to neaten up my VSS install yesterday.

As you may already know 1998 to 2011 Rangers have an Output Shaft Sensor or OSS on the transmission and not a VSS. The OSS is an electromagnet this is read by the Ford engine computer and then the Ford computer generates a VSS for the Instrument pod to read. The OSS signal is incompatible for both the Volkswagen engine computer or the Ford instrument pod - these both need a hall sensor signal - which is a square wave and not a multi-sine wave that the OSS generates. As I have no Ford computer to make a VSS the speedometer doesn't work.

I removed the OSS, cut it a few millimeters below the O-ring and hollowed it out. Drilled a 12mm hole and installed a Speedpuls CV VSS that we sell at http://www.fastforward.ca

Drilled out Ford OSS

Mounted VSS

Time for some math!
Inside the Ranger transmission is a cog with 12 lands and 13 valleys, so 12 12V square wave pulses per revolution.

The Volkswagen ECU wants to see 1Hz per km/h and the Ford Instrument Pod wants to see 1.4Hz per hm/h

Assuming 235-75-15 tires are installed for a value of 429 revolutions per kilometer and my 3.73:1 final drive with 0.79 fifth so that's a engine RPM of 2131 at 100km/h or a drive shaft RPM of 1683. Multiply that by 12 and that gives us 20196 pules per minute or 336 pulses per second which is about 3.3 times too fast for the Volkswagen ECU. Run it thru a signal processor and we can get that reduced by 3.3 for an accurate speed for the ECU so that cruise control and OBD speed measurement will be correct. Alternately one could open the transmission and make it so there is only 4 teeth and not 12 to get really close to the right answer without a signal converter!

The ECU is then read by the CAN2DASH+ module where we can feed the Ford Instrument pod a VSS and calibrate it for the 140Hz signal it wants to see for 100km/h.

There we have it - a neat, clean, water proof solution for a VSS !

Nice work David.

Minor correction. The type of system you have is applicable down to 2001. From 1998-2000 they used a rear wheel speed sensor mounted in the rear axle. This sent a signal to the ABS controller (and I believe directly to the speedo in the case of no-abs vehicles like my Ranger). Anyway, I did not need to mess with this circuit on my truck and the speedo works fine. There is a wire intended to go to the ford ecu which I sent to the vw ecu and it seems to like the signal with cruise working properly.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/speedometer.shtml

A little update. A video showing acceleration from 100km/h to 160km/h. Of course, this was not done on a public highway at all . . . safety third!

https://youtu.be/Xaomc0sl2z8

Now... to keep coolant temperatures from sky rocking after bursts like that! I really do think it is aux oil-cooler time!

0 to 100klh in 5 sec.?
Wow!

Nice and quick for passing, don't you love that torque!?

OK - full disclosure time! The speed shown in the video is wrong!

This is my universal VSS connected directly to the speedometer with no signal processing. So four pulses per drive shaft revolution.

https://youtu.be/cCB_LO2KymY

According to the GPS, 80km/h is 100km/h on the speedometer. Still pretty darn quick for a Ford Ranger!

I am going to connect one of my signal processors on there so that it feeds the ECU 100Hz at 100km/h (so the ECU sees the correct speed) and then use CAN2DASH+ to make the speedometer show the correct speed and all will be good!

Hasenwerk said:

Still pretty darn quick

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Yes it is

Just posting an update to this thread after a semi-major road trip.

As some keen observers may have noticed, I was having some cooling issues with the truck with water temperatures getting over 105C when I drove it agressively. Installing a new water pump / t-stat / radiator solved nothing. Installing a large external oil cooler resolved everything! So I think the extra heat being added by the oil from the Race 520 nozzles (piston cooling) and 1749VB turbo was just too much for a stock MK3 cooling system pushing a heavy truck.

I just got back from a trip to Vancouver - a 700km one way drive - and the truck performed perfectly.

On the way down, driving a constant 110km/h as much as I could, the highest temperature on the entire trip was 96C. Fuel economy between Quesnel and Abbotsford BC was 7.4L per 100.

Driving in and around Vancouver (almost 600km worth, mostly stop and go) I got 7.9L per 100.

I refulled in Chilliwack and drioe back to Quesnel. I drove faster going home than I did getting to Vancouver. On two occasions, the coolant hit 97C and only for a small amount of time - the first was Jack Ass summit in the Fraser Canyon - I went up that long grade at about 120+km/h just to see how hot I could get it. Was 96 for the longest time and 97 briefly. At the top the speed limit is 80km/h and a series of tighter corners so of course I slowed down to this and the temp went almost instantly down to 91C. The other big hill on the way home is Begby Summit and I did that as fast as I could too - a brief 97C and right back down to the low 90s as soon as the fun was over. I consider my coolant issues resolved! ;-) The fuel gauge is currently at 1/4 and the odometer says 600km so I am on track again for low 7s for fuel economy!

The ride sound level was great - the additial sound proofing I added works great.

CAN2DASH+ work flawlessly the whole way.

Now... on to the next project... CJAA into my 1989 TriStar Syncro and the start of the DASH2CAN project!

Looks good! Let me know next time you are in chilliwack! I'd love to see it

David,

Did you leave the factory heat exchanger in place and add the sandwich plate below it, or remove the coolant to oil exchanger and run the external oil cooler only?

I am looking to remove a little heat from the oil and coolant in my audi swap. Temps can start to climb when beating it hard up and over the mountain passes in the summer.

It would be nice to eliminate the possibility of the coolant and oil mixing and removing the factory heat exchanger completely, but it would also be nice to keep the warm-up effect on the oil in the winter.

Maybe just adding an external cooler would still help since I want to remove heat from both fluid systems.

I left the original factory heat exchanger in place. The reason for this is that it is what I call a oil temperature regulator - so it helps warm up the oil / coolant in the winter depending on how you look at it. That's important to me.

Personally, I would not remove the factory heat exchanger.

Just a follow up to the previous posts - ever since I installed this external oil cooler the water temperature has never gone about 96C. Which is right on par with daily driving on my son's MK2 Jetta with an ALH.

Hasenwerk said:

I left the original factory heat exchanger in place. The reason for this is that it is what I call a oil temperature regulator - so it helps warm up the oil / coolant in the winter depending on how you look at it. That's important to me.

Personally, I would not remove the factory heat exchanger.

Just a follow up to the previous posts - ever since I installed this external oil cooler the water temperature has never gone about 96C. Which is right on par with daily driving on my son's MK2 Jetta with an ALH.

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Thank you for the clarification. Yes, I agree, I like the idea of leaving the factory heat exchanger. The only advantage to removing it would be to avoid a possible failure resulting in coolant in the oil. I will leave mine, especially since this car will see winter duty this year.

Did you run the sandwich above or below the factory exchanger? It seems like it probably doesn't matter.

The sandwich adapter can only go in one place and that is on top. The reason for this is the plastic cap on the bottom of the assembly has the threaded pipe that goes thru everything - that pipe can't be removed from the cap. The sandwich adapter comes with an extension piece, so it can only go on the top side. Which I believe [correct me if I am wrong please] is the hottest oil going to the sandwich adapter first. My adapter has a thermostat so it shouldn't effect the warm up effect of the coolant.

Hasenwerk said:

The sandwich adapter can only go in one place and that is on top. The reason for this is the plastic cap on the bottom of the assembly has the threaded pipe that goes thru everything - that pipe can't be removed from the cap. The sandwich adapter comes with an extension piece, so it can only go on the top side. Which I believe [correct me if I am wrong please] is the hottest oil going to the sandwich adapter first. My adapter has a thermostat so it shouldn't effect the warm up effect of the coolant.

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makes sense. I have an AHU with 1.8t AEB audi a4 filter housing setup, so its a bit different, but will hopefully work fine.

Thanks again.

Sorry to keep beating a dead horse, but I ordered everything to set my car up with a similar setup as your oil cooler. I think my cooler is probably a similar capacity and I also expect coolant temps to drop.

Do you have any concern with your oil being overcooled? The themostat in the sandwich plate is supposedly fully open at 180 degrees F (82C), which strikes me as a little too cool for oil. i always thought that around 200 was good. I got a high capacity cooler, and I assume that my oil temps will sit around 180 with my setup.

I am probably overthinking it, but I was wondering if you had any thoughts. It sounds like you don't have a method of measuring oil temperature in your ranger with this new setup, is this correct.

Thanks for your insight.

vtpsd said:

Sorry to keep beating a dead horse, but I ordered everything to set my car up with a similar setup as your oil cooler. I think my cooler is probably a similar capacity and I also expect coolant temps to drop.
Do you have any concern with your oil being overcooled? The themostat in the sandwich plate is supposedly fully open at 180 degrees F (82C), which strikes me as a little too cool for oil. i always thought that around 200 was good. I got a high capacity cooler, and I assume that my oil temps will sit around 180 with my setup.
I am probably overthinking it, but I was wondering if you had any thoughts. It sounds like you don't have a method of measuring oil temperature in your ranger with this new setup, is this correct.
Thanks for your insight.

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To be honest, I don't have an oil temp gauge in my Ranger yet. I am building a microcontroller with a 16x2 display that will show Oil Temp, Exhaust Temp, Boost Pressure, Boost Temperature in the blank spot where the automatic gear indicator would normally be... until then...

I my TriStar which has oil temp gauge and the same oil cooler I have now. Oil temps were always plus or minus what the coolant temps were. Going up long hills with lots of turbo would result in >100C so that's fine by me for "burning" off water (yet where would it go?).

Hasenwerk said:

To be honest, I don't have an oil temp gauge in my Ranger yet. I am building a microcontroller with a 16x2 display that will show Oil Temp, Exhaust Temp, Boost Pressure, Boost Temperature in the blank spot where the automatic gear indicator would normally be... until then...
I my TriStar which has oil temp gauge and the same oil cooler I have now. Oil temps were always plus or minus what the coolant temps were. Going up long hills with lots of turbo would result in >100C so that's fine by me for "burning" off water (yet where would it go?).

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Good to hear. I think 100 degrees C would be fine for removing water, especially on a long drive (which all of mine are).

I assume the water evaporates into the air in the crankcase, is evacuated via the crankcase vents and ultimately is burning in the combustion chambers and is sent out the tailpipe. (if your crank vent is still plumbed into the low pressure side of the intake tract.

evaporated moisture in the oil (from combustion) gets evacuated via the pvc system and ultimately out of the exhaust ... moisture in the oil is a real thing and engines that rarely achieve full OT get sludged due to this moisture building up in the oil

Spacers

Hasenwerk said:

My Ranger Edge is, well, half way to a 4x4 now. It's a 2WD with High and Low range! Out came the noisey 2WD transmission and slipping stock clutch and in went a 4WD transmission and a Ceterforce clutch. The transfer case is a manual one with the floor leaver a 1994 Ford Explorer 4 door, along with the drive shaft and everything fits like a glove!
If anyone is interested in a 2" machined drive shaft spacer and bolts for their conversion let me know as I don't need mine anymore.
Next is the front differential, axles shafts and manual locking hubs install - but not until April when my insurance runs out.
This weekend I will be installing the first CAN2DASH unit off of the production line! This means glow plug and check engines lights, tachometer, speedometer and coolant signals for the Ford instrument cluster right from the CAN bus! So no more low reading 6 cylinder tachometer, scaling the Ford speedometer impulse to show the correct speed and the coolant gauge will now read in the correct spot as well!
Hopefully next weekend I will get the Ford two wire Cruise Control system working with the Volkswagen ECU as well!

Click to expand...

I'm planning on doing a ALH swap in a 02 4X4 Ranger 4.0 SOHV M5OD-HD Tranny.

How did you manage to pull the engine out 2 inches without any changes to drive shafts.

Thanks

aadonline said:

I'm planning on doing a ALH swap in a 02 4X4 Ranger 4.0 SOHV M5OD-HD Tranny.
How did you manage to pull the engine out 2 inches without any changes to drive shafts.
Thanks

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You need a drive shaft spacer, I have a spare one here if you are interested.

When I converted my Edge regular cab to 4WD I used a late 90s explorer driveshaft and no spacer, so perhaps you might get lucky at the wrecking yard.

Forgot to mention, mine is an extended CAB