You now have options to repair or replace your BEW PD Lift Pump

ctnatureboy

ctnatureboy

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Oh. You could NEVER tell once it's running. Just when you first bump the key and it cycles for that one second prior to engine start. I only mentioned it because I'm SO conscious of it now that I will notice right away if (when) it fails next time.
 
pedroYUL

pedroYUL

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ctnatureboy said:
It seems he got (and shipped) a batch of replacement hoses that are too short. You will need a hose that is ~230mm and the one I received was 160mm.

Needless to say that this hose spends it's thankless life 100% submersed in diesel under pressure and in a tight bend so it's not like you can use and old drinking straw or whatever you find lying around to substitute it AND there is no way to drive the car without this.
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Yup. I also found the replacement tube to be too short. I used some PVC tube which is perfectly compatible with diesel fuel (all PVC), just make sure that the wall of the hose you use is thick enough to withstand some 10 psi of pressure, IIRC this pump just builds 5 psi.

I am the one who can still hear the whine of the pump at idle. Hopefully it goes away soon with use, I am still in my first tank with the new pump.
 
TheTDIWagonGuy

TheTDIWagonGuy

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I apologize for the short hoses. I am in the process of getting replacements. I'm not sure about the noise because I have the replacement pump in my car and I don't hear it at all. A local member has the module and we can't barely hear it. I wonder if it is because they are new?
 
ctnatureboy

ctnatureboy

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Tubing alternate needed

Changed pump motor. Supplied hose was too short so I used my own fuel line; McMaster # 5552K26 A Tygon PVC by St. Gobain rated for diesel. This tubing is VERY flexible and had so much elasticity that I felt tubing clamps were not needed. Last night I had a no-start condition and it turned out to be this replacement tubing had pushed its way off one of the barbs on the pump body. I had clamps in the car and tools to do the repair with me but noticed the tubing had lost it's elasticity and feels eerily like it will soon be hardened and embrittled to the point where it would burst and fail.

Anyone have any success with an alternate that is diesel compatible and flexible enough to be a permanent fix or do I have to buy a new pump to get the right hose?
 
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DanG144

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ctnatureboy

ctnatureboy

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I picked up some 5/16" Gates Barriercade fuel line rated for submersion ($7/ft) from the FLAPS. It's not nearly as flexible as the Tygon PVC and was an absolute bear to get on the barbs but this should be a done deal now.
 
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DanG144

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Remember that the top is collapsed down about an inch or so when you install the unit, so push down on it and verify the hose does not collapse or pinch closed when the top is depressed to simulate the installed position.
 
ctnatureboy

ctnatureboy

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DanG144 said:
Remember that the top is collapsed down about an inch or so when you install the unit, so push down on it and verify the hose does not collapse or pinch closed when the top is depressed to simulate the installed position.
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Done deal (as long as this hose holds up). I'll be checking in on it in a week to make sure it doesn't succumb to the same fate as the other tubing. If it does, I'll be panicking again looking for that OE replacement hose.
 
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DanG144

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I did get one installed last night. It runs quietly - as quiet as the original.
I did not get a chance to run flow and pressure data, but I suspect it is fine.

The replacement pump units are a tiny bit different from the originals. There are holes in the top of the pump unit, apparently to ensure coolant flow past the internals. So fuel comes shooting out of small holes in the top of the pump enclosure when you test it.

So you may want it down in a deep bucket to test it, not in a one gallon Bush's bean can. Just sayin'.

I found that I had to heat up the supplied hose in order to go over the fittings (and yes it is too short, just testing).

A good replacement hose seems to be the "dudadiesel hose" http://www.dudadiesel.com/viton.php?...ng_id=17:18:US. You want the 5/16" ID hose.

It worked well, without kinking. The corrugated hose would be much better, but this does work.

Using a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up plastic when it is below even 60 degrees is a good practice. This plastic has been subjected to 160 fuel for 6 years or so. It is not as elastic as when it was new. A few minutes warming up can save a lot of time and energy.

If you end up needing any spare parts, let me know; I may have some laying around.
 
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whitedog

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fuel comes shooting out of small holes in the top of the pump enclosure when you test it.

So you may want it down in a deep bucket to test it, not in a one gallon Bush's bean can. Just sayin'.
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Dan, how much time did you spend cleaning up?
 
abused-TDI

abused-TDI

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TheTDIWagonGuy said:
I now have BEW Lift Pumps and replacement pump motors for the old style lift pump for sale.
BEW Lift Pump
They are made by a OE Manufacturer and I back the lift pump by a 1 year unlimited mileage warranty.

Cost is $149.00 including shipping to anywhere in Canada and the lower 48 states in the US.
Only $149.00!
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Does this pump directly replace the original tan colored one in a 2005 Jetta TDI BEW?
 
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DanG144

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Yes, the pump you have pictured there is a direct replacement. It does have one operating difference. When this pump dies, your car dies.

With the old pump assembly, once primed, the engine will run even with a dead pump, until something happens to cause loss of prime - like running low on fuel, or replacing a fuel filter.
 
pedroYUL

pedroYUL

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I think finally my new motor is quieting down.
 
cr4zy3lgato

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this could be fitted to a ALH engine right? just need a relay, wires, connectors etc. (i.e. IDparts kit)

sick price btw!
 
TheTDIWagonGuy

TheTDIWagonGuy

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ALH conversion connector

I also have these to make a clean connection for ALH conversions.

$8.00 with pump purchase $12.00 otherwise to the US and Canada
 
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cr4zy3lgato

cr4zy3lgato

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DanG144 said:
Yes, the pump you have pictured there is a direct replacement. It does have one operating difference. When this pump dies, your car dies.

With the old pump assembly, once primed, the engine will run even with a dead pump, until something happens to cause loss of prime - like running low on fuel, or replacing a fuel filter.
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On an ALH if it dies, it will let the fuel flow just like stock right?
 
MAXRPM

MAXRPM

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Great price on these lift pumps, they are expensive new
 
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DanG144

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cr4zy3lgato said:
On an ALH if it dies, it will let the fuel flow just like stock right?
Click to expand...
With the pump assembly (Blue and white) in post #1 of this thread, no engine will be able to pull fuel through it when it dies. Not the way it was designed.

You must do a suction line mod for this pump assembly, in order for ANY engine to pull fuel through it when it dies. Similar to LeftCoastResident's mod. See post #70 http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=225672.

If you have the old tan colored "B" suffix pump then it will let a healthy PD or ALH pull fuel through it. These are the ones the replacement motors fit into.
 
abused-TDI

abused-TDI

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The seller is a stand up guy too. When my car was dead in the fuel station parking lot I called him and he shipped it same day I ordered it, got here in two business days (canada to central MN)
 
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ottodog

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I think mine is probably dead. I don't hear anything when the key is turned on, never have. Starts ok when cold but a little harder when warm. Drives fine.

I'll probably be ordering soon. Please post when you have the new hoses.
 
abused-TDI

abused-TDI

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ottodog said:
I think mine is probably dead. I don't hear anything when the key is turned on, never have. Starts ok when cold but a little harder when warm. Drives fine.

I'll probably be ordering soon. Please post when you have the new hoses.
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Take the cover off the tank area and have someone else turn the key so you can put your hand on it and ear right by it. Then you can even put a meter on the two big wires and check that you for sure have power.
 
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