Need more brake suggestions.. Still having issues.

So I ended up changing both rear hard/soft lines and the smaller hoses that go into those since one of them looked crushed. When the brakes on the car are cool its nice and smooth without a drag in the world. After a couple stops once they get some heat into them it gets horribly sticky.

So at this point its been flushed twice, all new hoses all the way around. New pads and rotors, new calipers all but one wheel. Im basiclly out of stuff to replace other than that one caliper, tried with the ebrake cables disconnected as well just to satisfy this issue and all was smooth at first than it slowly started dragging more and more as the heat built up. Temp on the rotors is around 115*f when this starts.


Do we have any other ideas for this?

Have you replaced the rear caliper carriers?

I just bought two new ones for my Golf for a similar reason, but haven't installed them yet.

Wouldnt have thought to change that. Usually that gets replaced when someone strips out the holes doesnt it?

Another question here. Would an out of adjustment booster rod cause this slight drag? It was replaced by a mechanic who didnt have much VW experience. I would think the system up there is similar to most cars though.

AnotherPerson said:

Wouldnt have thought to change that. Usually that gets replaced when someone strips out the holes doesnt it?

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Well, the issue here is that they rust and either the pins get sticky and/or stuck, or the rust builds up and makes the pads get too tight, not allowing them to release properly (sometimes). I usually clean and lube the pins, and clean/file the rust off and carry on, but I recently installed a new caliper on the drivers side, and it still wasn't releasing as good as it should. If I crack the caliper bolts loose, it works fine. Tighten the caliper bolts, and the caliper seems to bind up or not move as smooth as it should. I don't know if the caliper carrier is bent, or warped, or just worn out...but I decided to replace it. My problem doesn't appear to be a hydraulic issue...it's strictly mechanical.

Rembrant said:

Well, the issue here is that they rust and either the pins get sticky and/or stuck, or the rust builds up and makes the pads get too tight, not allowing them to release properly (sometimes). I usually clean and lube the pins, and clean/file the rust off and carry on, but I recently installed a new caliper on the drivers side, and it still wasn't releasing as good as it should. If I crack the caliper bolts loose, it works fine. Tighten the caliper bolts, and the caliper seems to bind up or not move as smooth as it should. I don't know if the caliper carrier is bent, or warped, or just worn out...but I decided to replace it. My problem doesn't appear to be a hydraulic issue...it's strictly mechanical.

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So your problem is consistent vs happening only sometimes like me?

AnotherPerson said:

So your problem is consistent vs happening only sometimes like me?

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Yes, mine was consistent.

"New" calipers or rebuilt? New rears are less than $100, that is what I put on the rear and have had no problems. Rebuilds are not new and could still be causing trouble.

I got some rebuilds for the front and have had similar trouble with the front right getting hot. Planning on a set from the scrap yard and rebuild myself, wish i didn't turn in my cores. The carrier could be holding them to tightly, i think that is what is happening on my right side. The left front is just the opposite, they are so loose in the carrier that they rattle all the time on any little bump. I am beginning to think that the carrier is matched to the caliper on factory brakes.

Gonna try adjusting the freeplay on the booster rod myself. As far as new brake calipers vs remains. I would have more faith in a reman in a vw caliper shell than a new Chinese caliper shell lol

Misadjusted master could cause this. If the bleed ports in the master aren't uncovered at rest the expanding fluid has nowhere to go so the brakes are applied.

Nobody would happen to have a YouTube video for this would you? I'm not having much luck.

So I talked to someone and since it was such a minor drag they said when it does it to give a good yank up on the pedal and see if it frees up. Good yank up and it pops. The ball and socket thing that attached into the pedal assembly wasn't all the way in. What are the odds.


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Next time it does this, unbolt or loosen the master cylinder. I bet the MC is misadjusted and as the fluid heats up,t he fluid can't go back and it locks the brakes on. Had 2 cars last week with that exact problem, which is funny as I haven't seen it in years.

turbovan+tdi said:

Next time it does this, unbolt or loosen the master cylinder. I bet the MC is misadjusted and as the fluid heats up,t he fluid can't go back and it locks the brakes on. Had 2 cars last week with that exact problem, which is funny as I haven't seen it in years.

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Would this issue let it release when I pull the pedal up?


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AnotherPerson said:

Would this issue let it release when I pull the pedal up?


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Try that too, if the pedal isn't returning, that would do it too. But if the pedal is all the way up, try the unbolting trick.

turbovan+tdi said:

Try that too, if the pedal isn't returning, that would do it too. But if the pedal is all the way up, try the unbolting trick.

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Pedal seems to come all the way up. I think when I pull up I just get a little bit of flex somewhere that releases so its that little bit out of adjustment. Any idea how to adjust these cars? Booster doesnt have an adjustment and when I search up the VW part number none of the photos show it adjustable at the pedal.

Its not adjustable.

turbovan+tdi said:

Its not adjustable.

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So how would you fix this when it's or if adjustment?


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Could be the wrong MC. Happened to me on my Dasher way back when. Or at least the wrong rebuild kit.

Could be some gunk between the rod and the piston in the MC.

Missing gasket between MC and booster?

Guess I'm going to try to brake switch idea first. It's cheap since I found out that my early mk4 doesn't have a early switch in that category.


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AnotherPerson said:

So how would you fix this when it's or if adjustment?


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Did you install the brake booster properly.

Have you verified the master is the problem yet or are you just guessing?

turbovan+tdi said:

Did you install the brake booster properly.

Have you verified the master is the problem yet or are you just guessing?

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Booster and master were installed in dec by a mechanic we have used for many things including timing belts on hondas etc. had other brake issues that we finally got fixed up now and the drag only happens when the brakes heat up on warmer days outside. The pedal itself doesn't really pull up anything noticeable but when you lift with your foot it instantly releases. Booster and master were NAPA branded so I didn't buy the cheap AutoZone crap for that category.

Would you think anything else if such a tiny lift on the pedal would release them?

can you loosen the MC-to-servo fasteners, slide a shim (thin card maybe) into the gap and retighten?

would make a good test.

AnotherPerson said:

Booster and master were installed in dec by a mechanic we have used for many things including timing belts on hondas etc. had other brake issues that we finally got fixed up now and the drag only happens when the brakes heat up on warmer days outside. The pedal itself doesn't really pull up anything noticeable but when you lift with your foot it instantly releases. Booster and master were NAPA branded so I didn't buy the cheap AutoZone crap for that category.
Would you think anything else if such a tiny lift on the pedal would release them?

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Ok, then to isolate the issue, do what I suggested. I had a good, name brand MC cause me issues on a MK4. Diagnose, don't guess.