Advice needed asap

rolltide55 · Jun 28, 2016

That may be where I go eventually. Need to deal with this issue at this time though.

Thanks

GreenLantern_TDI · Jun 28, 2016

See my "light your car on fire and claim insurance" thread.

rolltide55 · Jun 28, 2016

It's worth consideration except a 12 year old, 275k car insurance claim isn't gonna get me very far, $.

LOL

rolltide55 · Jun 30, 2016

Update:

Issue seems to be fairly consistent.

When first starting after long periods, low speeds, low rpm's, the car is fine.

When accelerating on the interstate, as you approach 1800-2000 rpm in 5th to reach cruising speed, you can feel the miss & sputter/knocking & will eventually drop into limp mode.

After driving a short period (few miles) and pulling over & restarting, all is normal.

No clue other than it would seem that the issue is temperature related. Once the fuel system warms up, the issue goes away.

95% of my driving is interstate speeds in 75-80 MPH range.

Any ideas at all?

rolltide55 · Sep 11, 2016

Ended up removing valve cover and spraying all of the injector connectors with contact cleaner.

Sprayed the female connectors on the harness too.

Buttoned everything up, so far - so good.

Franko6 · Sep 11, 2016

First, I think that the recommendation I gave you to run Moly Purge got you this far.

There seems to be a lot of speculation about what I do and why I do it. What I definitely know is that plenty of people sure have copied my ideas and some are trying to go through the back door to take stuff away. I won't and can't stop people from copying my screws and bolts R & D, and in spite what Peter says, I went through extensive bolt testing and found what is not only reasonable, but a big improvement over the OEM bolts. I am more interested in common sense than expense. Peter's cure is expensive.
We have installed well over 1900 sets with only a couple broken bolts, and those were the cam cap hold downs, when instructions were not followed. The OEM's would have broken just the same if installed the same way.

But Sysifus, I have seen too many OEM cam cap bolts snap and when they do, they usually break off about even with the entry to the head. We have seen heads completely destroyed by using poor methods for broken bolt removal. Best thing to do is not get into the predicament. Don't reuse injector hold down bolts. DO USE OEM injector hold down bolts. But we never torque them more than 78 inch lbs. + 1/2 turn. At 3/4 turn, I don't think you are gaining anything and the risk of pulling all the threads out of the head rises exponentially.

Rolltide,

Your current issue appears to be insufficient fuel pressure or clogged fuel filter. But it may be in conjunction with weak injectors... leaking boost hose or bad or sticking turbo. Too many possibilities to work through and be confident of the answer. It's probably more than one issue.

The last two PD's we saw with a miss under acceleration, it was due to 1) a clogged fuel filter or 2) a weak lift pump. Just for kicks, we recently revived a intermittent lift pump by ultrasonically cleaning it. Sand came out of the pump. It came back to life and is still working fine almost a year later.

But your symptoms could be anything from a MAF, the Output boost hose from the turbo with a rip, sticking turbo or the items I've already mentioned. As for the harness being 'repaired' by spraying contact cleaner, first I doubt it and second, I hope it wasn't any of the corrosive type cleaners, because those will play havoc with the plastic in your connectors. The voltage is relatively high for those connectors and as long as the connector inside the engine is firmly connected, I've never seen connection at the injector fail. At the harness connection, only rarely.

As for the matter of heat, that is a common fault with most injectors; that there is a tendency for them to leak more when cold than hot. In general, the PD injectors do not leak much, as the fuel pressure drop is nearly complete when the injector is not compressed by the injector lobe.

Without VCDS, you are shooting in the dark. Get to someone who can read the VCDS codes and can follow the boost and MAF readings, along with the variation of the injectors block 13 and reads on 15 for fuel usage. Check the flow from the lift pump and the cleanliness of the fuel filter. There is a check point on the tandem pump to show idle and running pressures, which should be 25psi at idle and 100 psi at 2500 rpm. I know Dan is a good guy. If he's not too far to go, do so.

Any questions, feel free to give me a call.

turbovan+tdi · Sep 11, 2016

GreenLantern_TDI said:
Do what many on the forum are doing ditch the TDI. Go to a hybrid and enjoy worry free driving. Go threw alota posts on here and you will see MANY long time members that no longer drive TDIs. Its a fact. Take it for what it is and decide for yourself.

Really? That's the best you got? Please troll on another forum. Many happy TDI owners here.

rolltide55 · Sep 12, 2016

Franko6 said:
First, I think that the recommendation I gave you to run Moly Purge got you this far.

There seems to be a lot of speculation about what I do and why I do it. What I definitely know is that plenty of people sure have copied my ideas and some are trying to go through the back door to take stuff away. I won't and can't stop people from copying my screws and bolts R & D, and in spite what Peter says, I went through extensive bolt testing and found what is not only reasonable, but a big improvement over the OEM bolts. I am more interested in common sense than expense. Peter's cure is expensive.
We have installed well over 1900 sets with only a couple broken bolts, and those were the cam cap hold downs, when instructions were not followed. The OEM's would have broken just the same if installed the same way.

But Sysifus, I have seen too many OEM cam cap bolts snap and when they do, they usually break off about even with the entry to the head. We have seen heads completely destroyed by using poor methods for broken bolt removal. Best thing to do is not get into the predicament. Don't reuse injector hold down bolts. DO USE OEM injector hold down bolts. But we never torque them more than 78 inch lbs. + 1/2 turn. At 3/4 turn, I don't think you are gaining anything and the risk of pulling all the threads out of the head rises exponentially.

Rolltide,

Your current issue appears to be insufficient fuel pressure or clogged fuel filter. But it may be in conjunction with weak injectors... leaking boost hose or bad or sticking turbo. Too many possibilities to work through and be confident of the answer. It's probably more than one issue.

The last two PD's we saw with a miss under acceleration, it was due to 1) a clogged fuel filter or 2) a weak lift pump. Just for kicks, we recently revived a intermittent lift pump by ultrasonically cleaning it. Sand came out of the pump. It came back to life and is still working fine almost a year later.

But your symptoms could be anything from a MAF, the Output boost hose from the turbo with a rip, sticking turbo or the items I've already mentioned. As for the harness being 'repaired' by spraying contact cleaner, first I doubt it and second, I hope it wasn't any of the corrosive type cleaners, because those will play havoc with the plastic in your connectors. The voltage is relatively high for those connectors and as long as the connector inside the engine is firmly connected, I've never seen connection at the injector fail. At the harness connection, only rarely.

As for the matter of heat, that is a common fault with most injectors; that there is a tendency for them to leak more when cold than hot. In general, the PD injectors do not leak much, as the fuel pressure drop is nearly complete when the injector is not compressed by the injector lobe.

Without VCDS, you are shooting in the dark. Get to someone who can read the VCDS codes and can follow the boost and MAF readings, along with the variation of the injectors block 13 and reads on 15 for fuel usage. Check the flow from the lift pump and the cleanliness of the fuel filter. There is a check point on the tandem pump to show idle and running pressures, which should be 25psi at idle and 100 psi at 2500 rpm. I know Dan is a good guy. If he's not too far to go, do so.

Any questions, feel free to give me a call.

I'm changing out the harness now that it finally arrived from FedEx.

I sent Dan a text. Waiting to hear back.

I agree that more is going on than just pass vs fail with the electrical connections in the harness but man is it running better today than last Friday.

That's all I can really go on for now.

New lift pump has about 40k on it. Just changed the fuel filter.

rolltide55 · Sep 12, 2016

turbovan+tdi said:
Really? That's the best you got? Please troll on another forum. Many happy TDI owners here.

Yup. Had to be said.

I hate thinking about going back to a gasser.

rwolff · Sep 13, 2016

FlyTDI Guy said:
Too often a poster will ask for help only to follow a path most familiar to them, defy all advice and end up paying way too much, or worse, getting something fixed that doesn't need it.

Worst is when the unnecessary "fix" involves replacing a working OEM part with something from Rottenbastard Engineering.

turbovan+tdi · Sep 13, 2016

rolltide55 said:
Yup. Had to be said.
I hate thinking about going back to a gasser.

Didn't need to be said at all. 1000's of happy TDI owners.

Then don't go back to a gasser. Your choice,

pparks1 · Sep 13, 2016

Was happy with my TDI, but so displeased with VW that I didn't even bother looking at them.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Ol'Rattler · Sep 13, 2016

panthers89fan90 said:
+1 to what Frank said above.

DIESEL PURGE

Make sure to pull out fuse for lift pump first.

It's worth a try. $10 < $2k

Not needed. What I did was looped the supply from the lift pump back to the return to the tank.

Don't do like one guy did and not pull the fuse or loop the supply back to the return. When he started the engine his engine was thoroughly drenched in fuel. Lucky it didn't ignite, he probably would have burned his house/garage down.

rolltide55 · Sep 15, 2016

turbovan+tdi said:
Didn't need to be said at all. 1000's of happy TDI owners.
Then don't go back to a gasser. Your choice,

Did you completely misread what I posted or am I missing sarcasm?

turbovan+tdi · Sep 23, 2016

rolltide55 said:
Did you completely misread what I posted or am I missing sarcasm?

No, you said "had to be said"-no it didn't-

You said "I hate to think about going back to a gasser", I said don't, your choice.

Not sure what you're confused about??? You said it, not me.

rolltide55 · Sep 24, 2016

No problem. And pissing matches are boring.

turbovan+tdi · Sep 24, 2016

rolltide55 said:
No problem. And pissing matches are boring.

Nobody's pissing on anyone. Don't say what you don't mean, or say it so people understand. Simple!

rolltide55 · Sep 27, 2016

As I said, boring.

Swapped out the harness yesterday after symptoms started to reappear. It cleared everything up again.

Getting a intermittent code on the cam speed sensor & is occasionally difficult to start.

The engine is running much more smoothly after swapping the harness though.

I've found numerous threads in reference to harness failure symptoms & the issues were all very similar.

Fingers crossed that I don't have any more issues.

PGM jetta · Sep 27, 2016

rolltide55 said:
Getting a intermittent code on the cam speed sensor & is occasionally difficult to start.

Your cam sensor probably needs replacing. It can be intermittent, which makes it default to the crank position sensor. This is what causes a delayed start/extended cranking.

Check the wiring on both as sometimes the wires wear through causing the intermittent fault

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

rolltide55 · Sep 27, 2016

PGM jetta said:
Your cam sensor probably needs replacing. It can be intermittent, which makes it default to the crank position sensor. This is what causes a delayed start/extended cranking.

Check the wiring on both as sometimes the wires wear through causing the intermittent fault

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thanks. Will do.

Advice needed asap

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