A4 B5 Quattro TDI AFN Overboost with with pd13

A4 B5 Quattro TDI AFN Overboost with pd130 turbo

Hello,


I have audi a4 b5 quattro 1.9 tdi afn and have a problem and dont know what else to do. I have fitted transporter 111kw injectors and pd130 turbo restored/refurbished from the shop. fitted everything and the car was driving ok, no problems it had a little more power on higher revs.



Done the remap and the problem started when accelerating in 3/4 gear car goes into limp mode - the fault code was "intake manifold pressure sensor short to b+"
I used vag-com to look at boost and it was maxing out at 2570 and soon after it limp mode. Gave to the remaper the ecu again, he adjusted something with duty cycle - some problem.
After that i gave car to a company wich does remaps, again they adjusted the map a little bit and lengthened the vnt rod all the way as it was possible. They said the turbo was blowing 1.9 bar. Now the power comes only at about 3500rpm but this time no limp mode. The car is not driveable now. I again tryed to shorten the vnt rod myselft a bit and vag-com shows 2601 bar. Didnt want to drive the car much with that overboost.

Any help or thoughts would be great as right now im lost what to do next.

This is a little excerpt from the log from 10 group:


,Group A:,'010
,,Mass Air Flow,Barometric,Manifold ,Position,,,,,,,,,,
,TIME,,Pressure,Pressure,Throttle,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,
Marker,STAMP, mg/str, mbar, mbar,%,STAMP,,,,,STAMP,,,,
,110.45,475.0,1030.2,1234.2,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,110.81,465.0,1030.2,1234.2,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,111.15,475.0,1030.2,1234.2,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,111.50,470.0,1030.2,1234.2,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,111.84,450.0,1030.2,1234.2,8.2,,,,,,,,,,
,112.19,440.0,1030.2,1224.0,30.2,,,,,,,,,,
,112.53,465.0,1030.2,1213.8,32.5,,,,,,,,,,
,112.87,495.0,1030.2,1213.8,32.2,,,,,,,,,,
,113.21,515.0,1030.2,1234.2,34.5,,,,,,,,,,
,113.55,445.0,1030.2,1264.8,45.5,,,,,,,,,,
,113.87,500.0,1030.2,1264.8,61.2,,,,,,,,,,
,114.21,540.0,1030.2,1315.8,39.6,,,,,,,,,,
,114.53,530.0,1030.2,1315.8,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,114.86,525.0,1030.2,1285.2,15.3,,,,,,,,,,
,115.19,510.0,1030.2,1264.8,43.1,,,,,,,,,,
,115.54,505.0,1030.2,1275.0,80.0,,,,,,,,,,
,115.86,545.0,1030.2,1305.6,84.7,,,,,,,,,,
,116.19,555.0,1030.2,1336.2,78.8,,,,,,,,,,
,116.52,595.0,1030.2,1377.0,70.2,,,,,,,,,,
,116.86,630.0,1030.2,1458.6,47.8,,,,,,,,,,
,117.19,665.0,1030.2,1509.6,88.6,,,,,,,,,,
,117.54,800.0,1030.2,1744.2,100.0,,,,,,,,,,
,117.89,1060.0,1030.2,2172.6,100.0,,,,,,,,,,
,118.23,1210.0,1030.2,2601.0,74.1,,,,,,,,,,
,118.61,695.0,1030.2,2437.8,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,118.95,595.0,1030.2,1611.6,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,119.30,555.0,1030.2,1407.6,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,119.64,545.0,1030.2,1336.2,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,120.00,520.0,1030.2,1295.4,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,120.36,475.0,1030.2,1264.8,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,120.70,480.0,1030.2,1254.6,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,121.05,480.0,1030.2,1244.4,0.0,,,,,,,,,,
,121.39,465.0,1030.2,1234.2,0.0,,,,,,,,,,

You need a 3 bar Map sensor and the liniarisation done for the new map sensor. Yoh then start messing about with setting up the vnt rod again to mach requeated boost...

As adamss24 is saying, you need a 3bar senzor. For AFN you need this one, with large probe 038 906 051 A. You can use the Bosch one.
Second, you might thing to change the tuning company for one that knows what is doing. To mess with the rod length is the last thing to do.
Now you should do this: install this sensor along with software linearisation and increased diagnostic limits to see boost until 3000mbar to know what's happening. Revert changed to rod length to original, and do logs on channel 11. After that you will see what should be done next. I had a car with the same configuration and worked very well. You can use the N75 map and settings from the AWX engine as a baseline.

Thank you adamss24 and arazvan2002.


From this i have few questions:
1. The 038 906 051 sensor is from pd150 as i understand. This sensor goes into intercooler and 3 wires to the ecu is that correct?
2. Regarding linearisation can it be done by myself or this should do the tuning company? Im not afraid to try it myself but dont know where to start. I read that i need mpps tool clone? I found mpps v16 ecu flasher on ebay is this the one?

You could try buying the mpps or galetto kit and doing it yourself with help from a few tutorials like edc15 suite, etc. Biggest hype is your ecu is a msa15 so its not flasheable trough the obd port so you need a chip writter as well as new pcl chips to write the new maps on. Its not viable to do it yourself as by the time you buy the kit and learn flashing you might loose interest or sell the car! Get someone that know how to write chips and have boost limiters raised/removed and MAP sensor linearisation in the new map. If you use bad check sum then the car wont start... You have fairly standard parts on your car so apart from a decent map and probably a new clutch you wont need much to get 180 Bhp...

Ok, also, what about this map sensor, is it plug and play?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300-kPa-...h=item3d2c933fc0:g:KNAAAOSwp5JWaYog:rk:1:pf:0

What year is your a4 ? That map sensor is for early cars with map sensor buit into the ecu, later cars have it external on the boost pipe from, intercooler to inlet manifold. Take a picture of the engine bay to be sure...

If the car is B5 98-99, then you have an ECU MSA15 which has 2 PLCC32 memory chips and external 2.5 bar MAP sensor and the 3bar replacement is the one I told you earlier. Is plug and play. This one can't be flashed with MPPS or something else. You need to burn memory chips and a good replacement is 29F010. Tell us the partnumber of the ECU. (you can see it with VCDS, already written in the logs.

This i found in the log:


028 906 021 GL,,1.9l R4 EDC 70SG 1446,
The car is 1997-03-26

Unfortunately you have a very old ECU with internal MAP sensor, like the one you found on ebay. If I were you, I would change the ECU to a newer one that can be flashed thru OBD together with engine harness. The correct one is 038906012BM (actually any EDC15V hardware will be good, then you can write this software on it), it has manual and 4x4 code blocks. You can use it to have 2 tunes. You need to transplant few things from a donor car, an AFN/AVF engine from B5 facelift.
Otherwise, go socket your ECU, buy epprom programmer, internal sensor....etc.

Hi. While i was waiting for map sensor to arrive, i removed vnt actuator to see how the turbo geometry arm moves. And i noticed it isnt moving as freely as on my old turbo. It is a little bit sticky. This pd turbo is rebuilt, so i wonder how it can be that on my 5 year old turbo the arm moves more freely than on new rebuilt turbo.



Also another thing from time to time i have to fill up the oil to the engine as it is slowly disapearing. Bad piston rings? I should see blue smoke from exhaust but havent noticed it.

Hi,
So after all it was sticky vanes problem, on newly rebuild turbo. So after i realised that, i removed the turbo and cleaned it, put it back in and after about 300km the vanes are sticking again. Any body had similar problem? Is it too much fuel, bad piston rings and oil going into turbo or maybe boost leak? Any thoughts what to do?

Ps. i'm not driving my car like mad, just sometimes rev it to about 3500rpm's.

Turbo is mechanically worn out, you need to replace it with better one. This is very ordinary with remanufactured items. I´d suggest GTB/C/D series turbos, GT´s are very old. VNT´s, especially old worn out GT series´s usually get stuck because too gentle driving.

You really do not get much benefits from 3 bar MAP with T4 injectors.

Hi Power,
The thing is the turbo from pd130 (gt1749va) is rebuilt, they double checked it again and said its good but still geometry got stuck after few km.

So now while they checked that turbo, i put my original in the car (gt1749v) still in good condition, and the same thing happened after 300km.

Check your vacuum lines and turbo actuator.
I had problems with sticky vanes. There were problem in actuator where spring inside was rusted, rust was weared out actuator membrane and rust was all over the vacuum lines. Rust was inside N75 to.

The car was driving fine then i fitted the turbo, it started sticking after few km. This happened twice with two good turbos. Everything else is checked. Problem is with unburnt fuel probably? Maybe its possible engine is burning oil?(because engines consumes oil and dont know why yet). Dont know what else to do, even thinking about swaping other engine as i want to keep this car.

maybe there are some blockage in turbo oil return lines and oil is leaking in to the hot side.
If there are to much fuel, then it should be like this:

Is the sticky stuff around vanes dry on wet?
Is turbo turbine wheel wet/shiny?
Is you engine exhaust ports dry or wet?
How big is oil loss?

Changed oil to different, looks like oil consumption gone, at least for now
Put back in pd130 turbo, drives good, no faults and nolimp mode.
Feels like sometimes turbo vanes are sticking, especially when driving for a long time on low rpm - car drives different in same rpm ranges need to go hard when it fixes itself
At least for now everything is good, thinking maybe better turbo and better injectors in the future.


Could not say my e36 328i drives much better then this diesel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwL0sHtwuac