2001 TDI 01m auto transmission issues after fluid change

2001 TDI 01m auto transmission issues after fluid change - SOLVED

First, thanks to everyone who makes the forum such a great resource!
To summarize:
The car is my daughters 2001 TDI Automatic with 217,000 miles.
It ran just fine until I decided to change the transmission fluid (properly, level, correct temp, car running etc.) and now it slips, doesn't engage decisively between gears and doesn't down-shift at speeds over 20mph.
It does run fine when I shift it manually.
I have since read that I should have just left it alone...
After many hours searching, reading and trying various things and is still not performing correctly and I am hoping someone can help.
I do have the ross tech VCDS tool. I have a repair manual but there is not much in it on auto transmissions.
The issues:
1 - Code 01192 Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch
Sub code -04-10 Mechanical malfunction - Intermittent
2- The transmission does not down-shift when the gas pedal is pressed aggressively, as in going up a hill or accelerating at any speed over 20mph and it slips pretty badly (rpms go way up without any change in speed).
At very slow speeds (under 10 mph) it will down-shift.
3- There is a big slip between 2nd and 3rd before it engages.
I let off on the gas pedal and it seems to help it engage.
The things I'v tried:
*Completely took apart, cleaned and modified the valve body with a Transgo kit. It improved 1st and 2nd gear performance.
*Put a new electrical harness on the valve body
*Checked all the solenoids for proper resistance
*Adjusted the Booster Regulator valve to increase pressure. (it helped 1st and 2nd)
*Added Lucas slip stop
*Changed the coding VCDS to DSP mode on and off and trie factory, econo and sport settings.
*After each tweak or change I reset the trans "Relearn Procedure" to reset the TCM, although there are so many different versions out there and without any confirmation from car or software, I have never been sure about the success.
The Questions:
-Seeing as it engages and has nice torque when I select the gears manually, is it a computer issue?
-Should I try a remanufactured valve body?
-What is the definitive relearn procedure?
-After doing the relearn procedure, how long does it take for the car to improve?
-Should the car behave differently after a relearn procedure?
-If the friction plates were toast, wouldn't it also slip when the gears are engaged manually?
Thanks for any help!

Great reason to never have an automatic or DSG. Thank you for the confirmation.

Mine was slipping going up hills and reverse stopped working. I swapped in a 5-speed this summer and never looked back. Hopefully someone experienced with the autos will chime in with some help for you.

I guess on this forum ,not many like an auto trans, they seem to more interested in cussing them down then working on them, and I have been sandbagging round here a lot. That said I have two Jettas with auto trans, a 2001 sedan and a 2003 wagon. The reason I have autos is because I have a prosthetic left leg and driving an 5 speed with a juice clutch is somewhat difficult and unsafe. The VW trans fluid is a special type, from what i can lean, was not meant to be changed, so if the fluid is changed some of the solids ,that's mixed in the fluid, air not replaced the trans might slip. You might try some type of trans racing fluid with friction modifiers to see if that makes a difference. My transmissions shift ok, not like a ford.dodge or chevy but i don't race them just drive for the fuel millage and I like the diesel engine , as a matter of fact if VW didn't make the diesel engine , I see no reason to buy one. Good luck , I'll be watching you thread to see how you make out.

To properly change the fluid you need a vcds to determine the fluid temperature so you can get the level correct. Some people have managed with an infrared thermometer. Did you do that? Maybe you’re just low on fluid.

I don’t like the auto either. I think autos ought to be for those people that actually have a problem like frank1 in the previous post.

Tdijarhead said:

To properly change the fluid you need a vcds to determine the fluid temperature so you can get the level correct. Some people have managed with an infrared thermometer. Did you do that? Maybe you’re just low on fluid.
I don’t like the auto either. I think autos ought to be for those people that actually have a problem like frank1 in the previous post.

Click to expand...

Thanks Tdijarhead...yep, I did it both ways, VCDS and infrared as well as overfilling it and used friction modifiers...

I prefer sticks too, so what?

Pretty sad that a member has to justify his owning an auto to get help around here.

I and lots of others have changed the fluid in the auto without problems, some have gotten improved performance. It's interesting that VW puts a shelf life on its fluid but if you put it in the transmission it's good forever.

Vash, search up posts by CoolAirVw. He's posted a lot of good info on the 01M. Maybe contact him directly if his threads don't help.

What fluid did you use? I would not put in friction modifiers, they destroy motorcycle wet clutch characteristics.


A good universal fluid readily available for a reasonable price is Valvoline Max Life.


I prefer autos myself, DSG is the best way to go in my opinion. Most guys here seem to jump at a manual swap rather than repair automatics. They can be repaired and give good service afterwards.

Friction modifiers?



Idparts has an 01m kit to change the fluid. Don't use the modifiers. I would change the fluid one more time using the idparts kit and no modifiers and see what happens.


Coolairvw is the 01m guru. His website is.....http://kansascitytdi.com/


Under the TransFAQ at the top you should find the o1m info.

I had some shifting issues after I changed my timing belt recentl. I thought it was the fluid, but after putting in fresh Valvoline MaxLife it was still going into limp mode on hills.

A quick search of similar symptoms lead to the MAF sensor with a loose connector. I unplugged it, sprayed some contact cleaner, added some dielectric grease and plugged it back in. The car shifts like new again. Pretty amazing considering it has 187K miles so far.


It's free and simple. Worth a try in my opinion.

Just doing one fluid change leaves almost half the old fluid in the TC and cooler, etc.
It has been recommended to do 3 changes to get most of the old fluid changed out.

Thanks everyone.
I should have kept the old fluid, it would have been interesting to see if it would have returned to normal had I put it back in. It would at least eliminate fluid as the issue...
I used Max life the first time, when it behaved so poorly I tried Castrol Transmax, then I added some Lucas Stop Slip. I don't usually believe in magic potions but thought I should try it. After I changed out the valve body I put Max Life back in, no Lucas or modifers.

I have read everything I could find from Coolairvw and checked out his website, how to change the fluid and it is why I gave the transgo kit and the kerma mod on the valve body a try. I have read everything I could find on the 01192 code.

One thing I discovered while doing the TCM reset was that the gas pedal goes down all the way to the floor but in VCDS (Auto Trans, Measuring Blocks, Basic settings, Group 007) it shows 99.6% for value of Accelerator Pedal...I am wondering if this should say 100%? Maybe I haven't successfully reset the TCM?

Try contacting coolair directly with email or phone, while I’ve never had occasion to do so I have heard others say that he is a great guy and will help if he can.

I’m afraid I can’t answer the pedal reset question, my 2000 Golf had an 01m that died. I just transplanted the engine into an 03 Jetta for my daughter. So the engine at least is still going.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=493010

If your car is in great shape body wise you might give some thought to a 5spd conversion.
Teach your daughter to drive a stick, I’ve noticed it’s funny to watch young guys that don’t know how to drive a stick be intimidated by a young girl that can.

Three daughters all drive sticks 01 Beetle tdi, 03 Jetta tdi and the black sheep 15 Hyundai Veloster Turbo 6 spd.

I ave slushboxes in 3 of my cars, and it is because my wife drives them and refuses to learn to drive a stick. Too bad, but it is what it is.

Transaxle maintenance is important. VW won't admit it, but the supposed "maintenance free" and "lifetime fluid" are marketing lies. It was done so that it would be an easier sell. They figured that people don't keep cars for that long, so it wouldn't matter. And, if you figure the lifetime of the car is only 80k miles anyway, then - well, there you go. I can't help but wonder if they said the same thing to their german customers.

Too bad you're having trouble with the transaxle fluid change. If you are able to get CoolAirVW on the phone, he should be able to sort you out. Make sure you re-read all his postings.

Good luck,

PH

All three of my sisters, my mom, and my wife can row gears with the best of them too. Turns out mommy parts have no bearing on one's ability to operate and enjoy a lifetime transmission.

BUT... aside from the obvious (that the 01M is a pretty bad transmission), I always try and make sure everything on the control side is in good order before I condemn a transmission. Sounds like you've done a good job of making sure those items are in good order. I suspect the unit (which has had an amazingly long life if it is in fact the original one) is just in need of an overhaul or replacement.

I have had very bad experiences outsourcing 01M rebuilds to aftermarket vendors. Not always their fault, as the parts required to truly overhaul it properly exceed the value of a genuine Volkswagen reman (usually new) gearbox, which comes 100% complete. New cooler, new torque converter, new everything.... even full of fluid. Just bolt it in, clear the TCM memory, and off you go. I even know the ALH's 01M part number by heart: 01M-300-032-GX.

Unfortunately, once you find out how much these are, you'll see why so many get converted to a manual or just get junked.

You can certainly ask around for rebuilders in your area. This seems to be a common theme on the Eurovan group I am a member of, as ALL the 1998+ T4s sold here were VR6 only, automatic only (they get a "truck" version of the 01M, the 01P, which is no better). They are finding out the same thing... conversion to a manual (or in their case, doing away with the chain-eating VR6 engine for a TDI too), or suffering through having a vehicle that cannot be trusted any further than a tow truck's range as well as having it spend lots of its life at some transmission shop having the unit constantly taken out.

Good news is, if there is ANY place in the country you are likely to find help, Seattle is probably as good as any. I'd imagine there are streetside vendors for Subaru head gasket jobs there.

FWIW, I never use anything but the proper ATF in these.

Not seeing codes for Vehicle Speed Sensors, but I'm assuming you've at least checked the wiring on those too? When the output speed sensor on mine went, I got all kind of weird shifting things going on. The real fun bit on that is that you have to take the trans-body mount apart, because VW, in their infinite wisdom, put the sensor UNDER the mount. I even had a couple instances of that 01192 code in the months leading up to the sensor failure. When the sensor failed, I was cruising on the highway at 70mph and it was literally like someone flipped a switch - went from 2400rpm in O/D to 3200rpm in 3rd gear in the blink of an eye, and then once I pulled over and did a key off/on cycle, it only shifted at 3200rpm (and harshly at that). New sensor and it's back to normal. If you haven't checked the output speed sensor, might be worth trying. I haven't seen the 01192 on my car since the sensor was replaced, which makes me wonder if the failed one was on the edge of being truly bad, and occasionally giving the TCU a messy/noisy signal that it misinterpreted as the torque converter lockup clutch malfunctioning. Of course, the other code kind of counter-indicates that.

Also, I'm surprised the manual shifting is working - I would have expected that changing the selector position would simply restrict which gears the TCU could select, and that it would still shift from 1 up to whatever was selected. To truly "shift manually", wouldn't you have to pull the fuse to power the TCU off? (of course, not sure if the ECU would let the car even drive with no TCU reporting in, never tried that). Makes me wonder if the switch that the shifter lever is actuating is having some sort of contact problem...

Anyhow, do you remember how clean/dirty the old fluid looked when it drained out? Dark, or relatively clear? Would tell us how much friction material has come off the clutch packs.

As to fluid? While I don't debate that the OEM VW stuff is probably the best, my current 01M (I'm on my 3rd in 375K miles) has all but the first 25K miles logged using Royal Purple ATF (the first fill was Amsoil, but that was fully flushed out when the first fill of the 'Purple went in), and it comes out pretty much as clean as it was going in (except the one time I accidentally went 50K miles before changing it, that time it was a little dark but the next fill was back to clean again). In any event, if you're going to change brands of fluids, make sure you fully flush the old stuff out - mixing brands is probably not too great an idea.

SOLVED! 01m Slipping Revving

I am reporting back to say I have fixed my transmission and hopefully this will help someone else out down the road.
Recap:
I had replaced the transmission fluid in a 2001 TDi with 214,000+ miles on it, and would not shift properly after that.
It slipped and revved between gears and was completely unaccaptable to drive.
I tried the "Transgo" kit and it did not help.
If you try the transgo kit you eliminate the possiblity to rebuild the valve body correctly.
Tested the solenoids and all were fine.
Installed a new solenoid wiring harness ribbon and it did not help.
I changed the transmission fluid 5 times during the process of trying things and I was amazed at how dirty the new oil would get after just a few miles of driving each time.
I tried changing the transmission modes from "factory" to Economy" to "Performance" without any difference in revving and slipage.
I tried many versions of the "Transmission TCU reset procedure" or "Return to Basic Settings" but frankly none of them were very clear or they seemed to have no effect.
Without knowing the details of the "relearning" process I took it for a 150 mile drive thinking that should give it enough time to relearn and by the end of that drive, it would not even go into 4th gear and was slipping in all gears.
SO what fixed it?
I bought a used valve body off ebay for 145.00, taking the risk that it *might* work.
The solenoids on the used unit all tested fine.
After installing it and doing the "return to basic setting" as per Ross Tech and adding new oil it would rev to 5000 rpm before shifting from 1st to 2nd and would also not engage at all sometime, BUT shifted fine in all other gears.
Even though the solenoids tested fine, I decided to buy all new ones for 80.00 and a new wiring harness.
When I drained the fluid, I noticed it was becoming much clearer than after the previous changes at the same number of miles.
The new solenoids came with a new version of the "Return to Basic Setting" that I had not read anywhere else.
I installed the new solenoids & wiring harness, performed the new "return to basic setting" and it shifted fine between 1st and 2nd BUT revved between 2nd and 3rd!
Remembering a video CoolairVW posted about over torquing which can cause sticking valves http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-valve-body-removal-and-reinstalation/
I re-torqued to 43 inch pounds instead of 44, again did the new "return to basic reset" and initially it still revved between 2nd and 3rd, SO I tried to "re-learn" the transmission by manually shifting as if it were a manual transmission.
I would shift manually between 2nd and 3rd repeatedly and I'll be damned if the transmission didn't start shifting perfectly...actually better than it was before this all happened.
Here is the "Return to Basic Settings" (which is the Throttle position sensor & Kickdown re-learn procedure) that worked for me on my daughters TDI:
1- Clear all codes
2- Turn ignition "ON". Do not start the car
3- Move the gear selector lever to the "D4" postion which is "D" on an automatic.
4- Make sure there is nothing (carpet etc) under the accelerator.
5- Depress the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold for 30 seconds.
6- After 30 seconds move the gear selector back to "PARK".
7- Release the accelerator pedal.
8- Turn the ignition "OFF"
The "re-learn" process seemed to consist of:
-Drive the vehicle on the road and perform three individual up-shift sequences and kickdown (Press the pedal to the floor) at light, medium and heavy throttle conditions.
-The system will fine tune itself over the next 50 to 75 miles of driving. Mine took less than 5 miles.
-Manually shifting the car back and forth between the gears that were acting up (2nd & 3rd) seemed to do the trick.
Frankly, I am still kind of blown away that this transmission is shifting at all let alone this smoothly.

Vash said:

..........................snip...........................I changed the transmission fluid 5 times during the process of trying things and I was amazed at how dirty the new oil would get after just a few miles of driving each time......................snip...........................

Click to expand...

Telling you stuff is pretty worn in there.
Nice work! And this will certainly help other, thanks.

Glad to hear you got it working again. I turned off the adaptive shift logic long ago on mine, but I still take notice of the reset procedure when I see it and the one that worked for you is a variation I've not seen before.

The reason the fluid kept coming out dark is because just draining and refilling the pan isn't getting all the fluid out of the torque converter. Several drain and refill cycles is what it'll take to fully change the fluid (because you're only replacing a percentage each time, and then circulating the "new blend" throughout the system by running it). That said, Bob is right that the dark/dirty fluid is a sign of clutch pack wear.

I've had my best luck changing the fluid and filter on mine about every 30K miles - when you hit that point on this fill, change it again. If it's as clean (or cleaner) than what came out this time, then you're probably OK for a while yet. If it's darker than what you saw this time, I'd start getting concerned about the remaining life on the clutch packs.

Depending on how long you plan to keep this car on the road, you might want to start looking for a fresh 01M to stash in the garage for when (not if) this one finally fully fails, or plan on a 5-speed swap and teaching her to drive stick.

I saw that same video when installing the valve body on my buddy's 00, so I used a beam style torque wrench, then made sure the spool valve was OK.

Luckily I had an inch pound beam wrench lying around from setting a few differentials glad you got yours working!

Instructions that worked for TDi 2001 01M Transmission

So it has been a while- mileage is over 250,000 on the TDI since I fixed the transmission.
I thought I would upload the instructions that programmed my transmission correctly so that someone might be helped in the future.

Update - 2/28/2021 - The mileage is 243,000 and the transmission works great. I really think I should have a better car at my age but every time I drive this car and I hear it shift smoothly I still can't believe it... plus I am getting around 40 mpg highway... I would like the fuel injection pump to make less noise though so that is the next fine tuning on this car.

For those w.ho have the automatic maybe this thread with the attached document should be stashed some place easily accessible to others that will most certainly have 01m problems. A sticky perhaps in the transmission section?

Seems like fewer and fewer 01M cars on the road every day. I think I am down to only about a half dozen regulars, half of which are gassers.

Knock on wood- mines hangin in..

Can I get partial credit? My "3rd" 01M (second physical unit rebuilt) is still holding on as well.