should I be concerned, or just ignore it? (blue smoke)

Any mods?

fouillard are you completely stock on the original turbo?

dogdots said:

I didn't see how many miles/kms you have on the car but my 02 hot rod Jetta has about 350k miles and smokes blue on startup. It has been heavily modded since the factory warranty expired at 100k miles. The valve guides are pretty soft in these engines, and well worn after 100k miles. Once the guides are out of spec for wear (side deflection of valve stem) the seals go. The TDI makes enough boost to keep engine oil from entering the cylinders during normal driving through shot valve seals, but will leak overnight. On startup the next morning it burns off the oil that has leaked into the cylinders and causes the blue smoke.

I will be pulling my head and replacing the valve guides, seals, and keepers at my next timing belt interval. I will also do a 3 angle valve job while I have the head on the bench.

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hmm, that makes sense how it only happens over night. I think someone else explained it to me like that a while back too.

yes is it bone stock, original turbo. 240,000 easy highway km. 180,000 miles or so I believe?

I changed the glow plugs today... easiest thing ive ever done. literally took under 10 minutes. forgot to pre spray them, plus it was too cold. they all popped out nice and easy.

while I was under there, I looked closely and it is possible that I do have a very small leak, not .75L worth in 3500km though.. which is how far ive driven and how much oil was required to get to the half way mark on the dip stick.

what is leaking, and how can I safely clean/wash my engine? (maybe not this week. -25 here)

here is some pictures for you guys. seems that my very bottom wheel on the pulley system is leaking and possibly throwing oil onto that front hose, as well as the wheel behind it?

also, the driver side of the engine seems to be dirty, something is leaking and it looks like its been like that for years. almost looks fresh and like its coming from one of those hoses?

is it pretty safe to assume its my heater core, and for the $50 should I get one ordered ASAP and just have it on hand just in case?

whats the difference between the $50 one and the $150 oem one on idparts?

is there an upgraded/revised heater core that I should look for?

fouillard13 said:

is it pretty safe to assume its my heater core, and for the $50 should I get one ordered ASAP and just have it on hand just in case?

whats the difference between the $50 one and the $150 oem one on idparts?

is there an upgraded/revised heater core that I should look for?

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No, if the heater core was leaking, you would smell antifeeze, a sweet, sticky kind of smell. You would also be losing coolant (are you?).

If you think fixing an oil leak is hard, wait until you try changing the heater core (you have to pull the dash for starters).

yeah ive seen whats involved to do the heater core. thats nuts. no way im doing that. itll be going to a mechanic for that.

I dont necessarily smell anti freeze or anything odd. my reservioir is a tad low though. its on the minimum mark or maybe a hair below if anything. I dont think its normally that low.... I will keep a close eye on it.. how quick should it go down?

am I going to give myself cancer by delaying this fix and doing a few long drives in the next few days?

The level in the round bowl should not go down. Mark when cold, then check when cold. Heated coolant expands a bit so let it go back to ambient if you are watching it.

well the car definitely smelled like sweet antifreeze when I got in it this morning...

guess I should order a heater core and call my mechanic

fouillard13 said:

well the car definitely smelled like sweet antifreeze when I got in it this morning...

guess I should order a heater core and call my mechanic

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There goes Xmas, 8 hours labour book time and maybe an a/c recharge if you don't have the split case.

is it safe to drive? or am I killing my respiratory system here?

If it's just the heater core/coolant fumes you're safe driving.

For what it's worth I always steer customers to the genuine heater core. The aftermarket ones can be hit and miss; do you really want a Chinese one failing and then spend another 8 hours replacing it? Though it's 3x the cost the time more than justifies it...

Cheers,
-BB

even the OEM one seems like its junk though if it doesnt even last 200,000 miles.

would by any chance, this happen to have anything to do with me installing a frostheater last winter, and using a different rad fluid. possibly even mixing two types if I didnt fully drain the first stuff? I bought a jug of proper VW fluid right from the dealership when installing my frostheater so I know I installed the proper fluid.

ill go ahead and order a heatercore, I believe there is a B revision for them?

also, the fan that is by the passenger floorboard that squeels... what is that fan called so I can order a replacement also, or a bearing at the least if possible.

thanks.

No, the frost heater didn't do it. It's just the age of the car.

Mines is going too ,cars 16 years old with 370,xxx miles on it.

I've had my frost heater for about 7-8 years I think and leave it plugged in all night.

I believe it's call fan blower Assy.

Don't count on your hvac being two pieces. They say the the climatic controls are the ones that are supposed to be one piece.......not so, all my cars a manual controlled and all but one is a single piece.
The 98 nb non-diesel was the only one to have a 2 piece havc system. That was easy to do, redid the door too while the whole thing was out.

Fouillard you just jinxed me! Lol noticed a film building on my windows today too, not too bad but noticeable in the headlights of oncoming traffic. Maybe we should get a group buy going .

fouillard13 said:

just to confirm.... youre driving down the highway, and the engine starts to run away... red line uncontrollably. what do you do to stop it? whats the proper procedure? I just seen the key west thread where the guy panicked and held in the clutch, and they figure thats what ruined his motor (bend rods). I would probably do the same!! clutch in is ALWAYS the first thing you do.

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Here is a decent read on the subject:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/diesel-tdi-engine-runaway-engine-causes-how-to-stop-and-repair-it/