01M part 3

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
A tale of two $hitties....
Here's 01M part 2 http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=250194&highlight=01m
I promised a good one for 01M part 3, and here it is (two actually).
------------------Test case #1--------------------------------------------------------



A club member contacted me about a car he had purchased. He brought it to me and left it with me to checkout. He was getting a code 01192 (P0740 generic) for Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) mechanical malfunction. On hot trips, intermittantly he would trigger the code and the TCC would stop coming on. This would translate into higher than normal RPM's on the hiway. This is acutally a "failsafe" stategy. When the computer triggers the code it stops commanding the TCC on. Of course on our diesels with very narrow rpm band it would seem like the engine is racing like crazy. Most people would describe this as "No 4th" or "Slips real bad on hiway" or "No overdrive", due to their lack of understanding.
This is what I graphed on Franks car.

Refer to 01M part 2 for background details about TCC.
I would like to suggest that if you are having a TCC problem graph the TCC slip and the engine RPM from group seven. Set the scale on the tcc slip to Max 900 and Min -100 (thats negitive 100).
Remember from 01M part 2 that the green spikes are shifts. Last spike on on the right is the 3-4, then slip drops to zero, as the computer commands TCC on. Remember zero is not the bottom of the graph for the TCC. Zero is the lowest graticule, when scale is set as I suggested.
The upward ramp and plateau in the 7th and 8th field happen as I step into the throttle,to load up the TCC, to see if it will hold. Each stair step higher represents me stepping in the throttle a little more. This is TCC slip. This is not normal. This car would very intermittantly trigger the code but it would slip most every time when loaded in this way. Loading it up, in this way, while going uphill would be the best check for TCC slip.
You may notice the slight increase and plateau in the 4th frame. Very slight increases on the graph ARE normal. It seems vag-com, or the TCM only read slip in intervals of 15. So slip that graphs up to 15 or even 30 for small periods is not necessarily a problem. (more on that later)

update Edit: 12-12-2013 In this car I bored the TCC valve bore oversized and installed one valve. Of course later I found other cars with wear on other valves and now when I do these I overbore and install oversized valves for all 4 that are available.. As of now I have done about 200 of these with nearly 100% success in fixing TCC codes. Disclaimer: Sometimes the trans itself (ie 4th gear clutch pack or others) can slip and the computer might interpret it as TCC slip and trigger TCC slip codes. You would know this as you would feel the slip and see the slip in the tach, and it would be more than a few hundred rpm that a TCC slip can cause. Read 01m part 6 for more info. Valve body work wont fix all slips. Your trans could be slipping and failing, and you coul also have a TCC slip code and VB work may not fix the entiretly of the problem.

Frank took his car home, removed the Valve Body (VB) and sent it to me. I did some vacuum testing on the TCC valves and they were very worn. After reboring and installing new TCC valves the vacuum tests were fantastic!
I sent the VB back to Frank and it was reinstalled and has been thoroughly driven now to confirm the fix.
Frank's TCC valve was worn, allowing the pressure that applies the TCC to "leak" or "fall into the pan", causing not enough pressure to hold the TCC applied under load, triggering the trouble code. The problem is there are other areas that can cause this. If other area's in the trans were worn allowing that same pressure to leak, then you would have the same code. Also the converter itself can cause this. I'll say it bold so everyone understands.
There is no test to determine where your pressure loss is, that is causing your TCC code, other than physical disassembly, visual inspection and testing individual components for pressure loss.
Brian (oilhammer) might say this may not be a lasting repair. To this I partially agree, in that there is no way to test the TCC itself, nor is there a way to test the internal trans pressure that applies the TCC. But as a low cost repair its definitely worth a try. Edit at of 11-30-16 We have done tons of these and despite other potential causes P0740 is almost always the valve body. I would guess about 98% of the time. Now if you have other symptoms along with your P0740 I'm not saying it will fix your other symptoms, other than TCC inoperative or surging.


Note: lots of people contact me about P0740 codes and they define the code as TCC solenoid circuit. Lots of aftermarket sources INCORRECTLY define P0740 as TCC solenoid circuit. But P0740 is NOT a solenoid code. Meaning it is not a problem with the electrical circuit of the TCC solenoid. P0740 is defined by vagcom and other corrects souces as TCC mechanical malfunction or TCC slip. This means the computer sees a slip by comparing engine rpm to road speed, taking into account what gear the trans is in. See 01m part 5 solenoid for more info.


Test case #2 is the same repair, but I would consider it a fairly certain fix!

-------------------------Test case #2-----------------------------------------------
This car was brought to me before a vacation trip to fix a speedo/cruise problem. See this thread...http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=246679
After I repaired the speedo/cruise problem, I wanted to check over the car, before Melissa left on her trip. I noticed some surging. You could see it on the tach, and feel it. I took a video and will edit this post and place the video here later.
EDIT: VIDEO CONTENT ADDED
Watch the tach needle and listen to the sound of the motor. You can see and hear the rpms surging. On the video its slightly subtle but in the car its obvious.

This surging was actually pretty interesting. Understand that I work on all makes of transmissions, and I've felt TCC surging, TCC chatter, engine misses that people want to call TCC problems, and every other thing imaginable. This was interesting because as it would surge in and out, it would chatter as it released, then as it would reapply it would chatter, and this cycle would continue as you can see on the graph (never felt that before!) This made a subtle, hard to interpret sensation that confused me at first.
Well as everyone knows, one of the primary causes of TCC chatter is poor fluid condition. And of course with VW's "lifetime" fill, every 01M has nasty fluid condition, and this Beetle was no exception.
insert nasty fluid comparison picture here.....
After graphing the TCC slip it was plain as day.

You can see the surging TCC just before the 3-4 and lots after! Notice the corresponding changes in RPM. I should explain that what is happening here is the Tcc coming on and off without the computer commanding it. But the computer could command this to happen. If this were the case you would see the command changing in group 7, field 1. you cant check this with a graph, you have to look at the Data field.
I want to make clear that the surging can happen without the chatter and that TCC chatter can happen without the surging. The flush fixed the chatter and the valve fixed the surging. If you had chatter without the surging it would happen as the TCM commanded the TCC on or off, and you world only be able to feel it. you would not see it on the graph.
Melissa's TCC valve was worn and having trouble controlling regulation. In the past, at my suggestion of a experimental repair, two other members here tried to fix a surging problem by replacing the TCC boost valve and sleeve, and solenoid themselves, without reboring the VB. It fixed one but not the other. But, for definate surging that has been captured on a graph, with the rebore, I would consider this a fairly certain repair.
I'll probably edit later and add more info. Its late I'm tired. I have some vavle body pics and stuff...
 
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CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
Heres the fluid. Poor fluid condition will cause a chatter. Melissa's chatter probably would have went away with a good flush. But the surging would not have.



Compare some nice new fluid to old fluid. Ignore the differential marking on my compare plate. This was her transmission fluid. I checked her differential but there was no time to change it before her trip.



Pan looked like it needed a good flushing....



Slightly more than normal metal on magnet.



Broke open filter and there was no chunks. (chunks are vacation ruiners)



Take the ribbon strip off the valve body. Its a little difficult to do without breaking the locks on the solenoid connectors. To prevent breaking these connectors read through my website here...http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-valve-body-removal-and-reinstalation/. If you need a harness order here. http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-small-parts-shopping/

I sell a little aluminum tool that is a copy of the factory tool to remove these and it helps to prevent breaking. . Some folks still break them, as they get brittle with the heat inside the trans. If you need the tool click here http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-small-parts-shopping/


Finally Valve body off for vacuum checks, cleaning, visual inspection, reboring and installing new valve.



Here's why that flush costs so much...



Here's the link to 01m part 4

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2787884#post2787884
 
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fredcop

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Location
Whiteford, MD
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
CoolAir, I have a 2003 Jetta TDI automatic, I am experiencing the surge between 1800-2000 rpm, above or below this all is fine. I just had the car at the dealership for recalls, and an alignment. While it was there I had them check the transmission fluid level, and all was well. They even saved a sample of the fluid for me, and it looked remarkably good. My question is, would it be worth a flush and refill at this point in it's life?

Thanks in advance...
 

netjustin

Active member
Joined
Feb 25, 2012
Location
California
TDI
_'04 TDI Jetta 5MT ____`10 TDI Jetta 6MT RIP ____`03 TDI Jetta AT _ RIP
Thanks CoolAir, I'll post my results as soon as I can get this done.
Any update? I bought a 171K A4 Jetta and did not notice surging for the first week. Now I am thinking I want the all the fluids replaced.

Prior owner changed the engine oil but probably nothing else.
 

flee

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Location
Chatsworth, CA
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS wagon
AFAIK, there is no downside to changing the fluid and filter; the hundred bucks for materials is outweighed by the thousands of bucks for replacement!
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
the update is this repair has fixed dozens of cars with the surging problem, and even more with the 740 code. I'm done over 100 of these valve bodies now.
 

NRA

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2006
Location
West Georgia, U.S.A.
TDI
2002 Jetta GLS Automatic
Hi,
I have been reading some of your threads about auto trannys that chatter and surge.

I have a 2002 Jetta TDI auto. 310,000 miles. Never had any tranny service done.

It has had some chatter issues for a while when shifting into 4th gear. I have noticed a bit of surging while stopped at idle, I figured the fuel filter was telling me something?? Pulling from a dead stop under moderate to hard acceleration, no problems. Once up to 70+ mph, no issues either. Only happened if it dropped into 4th under a high torque situation. If I applied throttle it would drop into 3rd and go ahead and pull good.

Well, today while just riding along it stopped putting power to the wheels. I stopped on the shoulder, no pulling in any position, including reverse.

I raised the hood and the tranny had fluid all over it. looked like it came out of the timing hole in what would be the bell housing. Fluid all over the ground, all over the back of the car. Never has leaked in the driveway, not a drop. It just went all at once.

Any chance the filter got clogged and blew fluid out somewhere????

Any advice would be appreciated. I am going to put an auto back in if I must replace it, wife does not do manuals..

Thanks!!!
 

edjet

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2004
Location
GA
TDI
2006 Jetta TDi,
Sounds like your torque converter let go, or your main transmission seal leaked and spewed its guts into the torque converter/bellhousing. I have a transmission guy on the south side of ATL we go to if you want to consider rebuild, or you may want to look at finding a used one, or find a 5 spd swap. If I can be of help, give me a call.
Ed
 

seaglf

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Location
Houston Texas
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Automatic
http://www.importperformancetrans.c...--096-high-performance-transmission-3870.html

here is a better replacement for the stock unit which cost over 5000 bucks. It has been modded to be cover all the weaknesses of the O1M. I have a rebuilt valve body with a sonnex sure cure kit which cost over 400, and that is just one of the mods on this trannie. I was going to get one of these if my trannie ever went out.

This page of there sight explains more of what they do to the O1M

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/volkswagonauto.shtml
 
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Slegato

Member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Jetta Wagon

I was experiencing shuddering and a slight surge in O.D. so doing some reading I read that a transmission flush, a new TCC valve and turning up the pressure 4 clicks should fix it.
When I took apart the valve body I notice one spring and valve was different from older 01m gas transmissions. The 4th spring and valve (from the left) is shorter and the valve has a grove at the top. Is this common for the 2003/4 TDi transmissions or did i mix something up? I was careful not too but I can't help second guess myself.
Can anyone confirm this is right. I'm am the first person to open up this transmission so no one has changed anything. Hope someone can help soon. I like to put it back together and see how it drives
 

Slegato

Member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Jetta Wagon
No one knows or remembers? How about you Coolairvw? I know you have rebuilt many? Does that look correct?
 

Slegato

Member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Jetta Wagon
Looking at the fourth spring I see heavy wear on both the top and bottom of the spring. I'm thinking it was from all the transmission surging going on and dirty fluid. In that case maybe it goes on the thrid valve from the left because it has a seat and virbrates from both sides?
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
witness marks on the end of the spring is fairly normal.

I've taken apart 2 valve bodies since you contacted me and both of them had the exact spring configuration as your picture.
 

Slegato

Member
Joined
May 23, 2012
Location
Ontario
TDI
Jetta Wagon
So its confirmed. There was a slight change. I thank you for the confirmation. Hopefully this thread will help others. Now lets put it back in the car and test it. If there is no improvement its on its way to CoolAirVw for a rebuilt. Again, thanks for getting back to me with your confirmation.
 

stuston

Active member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Location
ATL
TDI
MKIV Jetta
Great write up. I am getting ready to tackle this on a TDI I just picked up on the cheap.

Has anyone ever used one of these kits? TRANSGO SK VW-O1M

I've got a "01192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction". I went ahead and picked up the kit above, a set of solenoids, and the upgraded wiring harness. Any comments are much appreciated.
 

CoolAirVw

Vendor
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Location
Kansas City Missouri
TDI
Jetta
Transgo shift kit is not the fix for a 01m VB. The BORES that the valves ride in wear terribly. The fix is to ream the bore oversized and install oversized valves.

The transgo shift kit comes with one valve and sleeve. It is the outer valve for the TCC but their kit completely ignores the wear on the inner TCC valve and of course the other three valve BORES that wear commonly.

Transgo shift kit has you drill out a oriface in the casting of the VB on the pressure regulator valve. After this is drilled out, I cannot rebuild the VB (edit: I've tried a couple now and they do work) as I don't know how it would work with that larger oriface and valves that are not worn out.

So I usually suggest to not install it, especially since there is a strong chance it won't fix it.

90% of the Valve bodies that I do dont need any solenoids. I don't consider the "rostra" wire type harness an upgrade. The connectors are made very poorly. Look, the harnesses don't have hardly any problems. They used to fail all the time in the early cars, but VW changed their manufacturing procedures and they hardly ever fail anymore. I hear people say what stuston said all the time. They throw money into parts that are not needed. Harness would almost never be needed if you can get it unplugged without breaking the ends. The release tool helps.

Transgo shift kit probably wont fix the 1192 code, and drilling out the oriface will make the VB unrebuildable (see previous edit). I suppose a guy could have the oriface tig welded closed then redrill the oriface the right size.
 
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skidoorider600

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Location
Sturgis, MI
TDI
2002 Jetta 01M, 334,000mi: 2003 Jetta TDI 01M 210,000mi: 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 97,000mi
51K on CoolAirVW VB rebuild

It has been a LONG time since my last post. Much has happened. It has been 3 years and 51,000 miles since I installed my rebuilt valve body from Richard. It is just now beginning to flare a bit again. Richard told me that the pressure results after the rebuild were good but not the best as my valve body had significant wear. The transmission had almost 198,000 miles on it when Richard received the valve body. The transmission now has 249,000 miles. I could not be more pleased with the results and help Richard provided me with instructions and after repair hints. Since the transmission seems to be working well, other than the slight flare, I will be contacting Richard to get his feedback on where to go from here. The removal and installation requires moderate skill. The only tricky part is the plastic tabs for the wire harness.
 

stuston

Active member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Location
ATL
TDI
MKIV Jetta
It has been a LONG time since my last post. Much has happened. It has been 3 years and 51,000 miles since I installed my rebuilt valve body from Richard. It is just now beginning to flare a bit again. ... The removal and installation requires moderate skill. The only tricky part is the plastic tabs for the wire harness.
I have a feeling you will be buying a new valve body, but if you're feeling confident about the rest of the drivetrain, I would look into a new tranny or the 5sp swap.

I just sent my VB off to Richard as well. I will report back on my results after the new year when I have a chance to put it back together and drive her a bit.

I agree that it only takes moderate skill to remove... but slightly less than that and you're going to break something. Somewhere between changing a valve cover gasket and changing a cam. Take your time and make sure you don't break anything.

My two cents.
 

bbob203

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Location
Louisville, ky
TDI
b5.5v
I replaced my fluid last night and the filter. 2003 jetta 156,000 miles 2003 stamped on the filter.. original. No chunks just goop on the magnet about a table spoon fluid dark but didnt smell burnt. Seemed to do help surging a bit and no more shudder that just started recently(happened about once or twice a day). Going to do another fluid change after our trip for new years.
 

PopMilan

New member
Joined
Feb 3, 2013
Location
calgary
TDI
2000 Jetta tdi
01m problem

Hi,
i got problems with my 01m transmission on jetta '02 tdi with 344000km on it.
Trans was rebuild a proximately 60 000 ago.
Before month ago main seal went out and oil leaks out.
I took the transmission down and change the main shaft seal, took out oil pump out and change the piston rings on the atf pump.
I use Mobile multi vehicle atf oil with new oil filter.
Now when you are in "d" and press brake pedal on traffic light you can hear sound like the oil pump does not stop making pressure.
The car goes good through whole gears.

I apologies on my bad English.

I appreciate any help.
Thanks.
 

barsaryan

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Location
Ontario
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI
Hello CoolAirVw!

I have a 02' TDI auto tranny with 290xxxkm on it. I've had the fluid changed twice over its lifetime, including a recent one over the past 15xxxkm.

When I'm on the highway for about an hour or more, exit and come to a stop, then start again the transmission acts pretty funny. It'll kick into second and jump into third. After about 5 minutes of driving off the highway, it goes back to normal again and doesn't kick or jump at all. All gears shift pretty smoothly up, shift perfectly smoothly down and reverse always works.

I've had it check in the past 4 months and no codes were registered.

Any suggestions on what it may be, or a possible repair you'd recommend having done to it?

thank you
 

barsaryan

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Location
Ontario
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI
I would say the shift into second is a hard shift, and when it shifts into third it doesn't kick, but almost gives a pull as it shifts, like a lurching sensation. I hope that makes sense...
 
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