Driver door won't open AT ALL

When I replaced the window actuator a couple months back, I apparently didn't adjust the door handle mechanism properly and it would require two pulls of either the inside or outside handle to open the door. Before I had the time to remove the handle to readjust it, both handles stopped working completely. No matter what I do I cannot open the door.

I got the inner door panel off just enough that I can grab the cable going from the inside handle to the latch with a pair pf needle nose pliers and PULL but pulling will not release the latch.

On the outer handle I opened it to the point that I could grab plastic piece on the end of the cable (the little plastic piece on the end of it where you can adjust it). I began to pull on it and it slipped out of my pliers and now I cannot grab or even see it.

With the rear door open I can see the hole where the (triple-square?) release bolt for the handle is, but cannot get access to it because of the rear door.

A this point what the heck can I do (besides possibly completely removing the rear door to get access to that handle release bolt) to get this door open?

That is a good one. I would play around more with the cable release to see if I could get it to go.

146 views and one Reply. I had a feeling I was in some trouble here.

Uber, yes I've been tugging on the cable release for a couple days. I'm thinking I can try to remove some of the screws holding the regulator to the door and maybe pry it away enough to get a hand (or needle nose pliers) in there. Not optimistic though. Because the door won't open I can't get the interior door panel all the way off, which prevents me from removing the window regulator assembly.

I have a feeling you are going to have to cut or break something to get the door open.

If you could get the door panel loose and off (you'd almost certainly have to cut it and break it out in pieces), then cut the rear most portion of the regulator frame open towards the rear, you *might* be able to get into the latch from inside the door cavity and start drilling/cutting/twisting/yanking on it until it gave way. I think I'd try to do everything I could to avoid anything that would require body (paint) work, as that would be the most difficult and expensive to fix.

If your car is the typical grey, then there are hundreds available at the wreckers, doors for a 150 or less. you could cut open the door from the outside for access.

oilhammer said:

I have a feeling you are going to have to cut or break something to get the door open.
If you could get the door panel loose and off (you'd almost certainly have to cut it and break it out in pieces), then cut the rear most portion of the regulator frame open towards the rear, you *might* be able to get into the latch from inside the door cavity and start drilling/cutting/twisting/yanking on it until it gave way. I think I'd try to do everything I could to avoid anything that would require body (paint) work, as that would be the most difficult and expensive to fix.

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Thanks Oilhammer. I was afraid of that. It seems as though if I remove the back door, I can access the bolt that releases the lock cylinder. Pull that and the handle and reach in to grab the cable. Make sense?

will the FOB lock and unlock the door, sounds like its stuck in the lock position

I do not think taking the back door off will gain you anything.

Sucks, if you were closer, you could come play around with the wrecked B5 I still have at my house. All that stuff is still good and intact.

I would remove the front seat to get more working space to remove regulator pan.
Removing rear door to access the handle cap release bolt looks like an option
You might try using a triple square bit and a small wrench to turn it to see if that works before removing rear door
Removing front seat and rear door look like best options

If the cable isn’t adjusted properly in the outer door handle it can get stuck in nowhere land and won’t open. I always test with a screwdriver blade to let the latch close replicating closing the door and adjust until it opens the latch properly from inside and outside handles before closing the door on the car. Of course that doesn’t help you now.

If you can get A bendy magnet to go fishing for the dropped outer door cable you can then use a spring hook to grab it and work the lock and unlock while pulling and releasing the outer door cable and it might just release.

I hope you get it figured out without too much destruction.

cut the skin off the door

Or just use the window dukes of hazard style then use the key to roll the window up after you get out

Good luck.

Taking the back door off was a piece of cake and it allowed me to remove the lock cylinder and handle and grab the cable and pull. The bad news is that (as I believe one of you guessed) it feels like there's no resistance as if the door is locked. Even though it sounds like it locks and unlocks, I'm guessing it doesn't.
Tomorrow night I may open up the driver's side in order to study it to get a plan together to unlock the passenger's side.
The good news is I haven't broken anything yet.

unlocked

locked

Thanks, Afar. That helps a lot. So it looks like I need to find a way to rotate that white plastic piece counterclockwise, which I believe would be down as it's mounted in the door, correct?

with the door closed and locked and you open the door from the inside the braided SS cable forces the black plastic tab, ribbed, up against a roller bearing on the lock mechanism, when the lock mechanism is pushed CCW the door unlocks and opens. This won't work with the outside door handle.

afarfalla said:

with the door closed and locked and you open the door from the inside the braided SS cable forces the black plastic tab, ribbed, up against a roller bearing on the lock mechanism, when the lock mechanism is pushed CCW the door unlocks and opens. This won't work with the outside door handle.

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Not sure I'm following. Are you saying that I need to pull the inside cable and keep it extended and at the same time try to rotate the lock mechanism CCW? Because just tugging on the inside cable alone is not opening the door.

The one tug both unlocks and opens the door. The white plastic part of your lock mechanism is most likely broken.

Lock the passenger door then open it from the inside.

Here's the latest. Lock door. Pulling on inside cable causes the lock button to pop up (and it sounds just like the driver's side) but the door does not open. The sound I don't hear (obviously) is the click of the latch releasing. What's happening in there?

internal latch assembly release failure.

afarfalla said:

internal latch assembly release failure.

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I have no choice but to get the door open. Any ideas for my next move?

tug on inside cable and put your shoulder into the door, maybe you will get lucky

Maybe also try pushing from outside if pushing on inside doesn't work. Push and pull.

If you have another latch, be sure to get the mechanics of opening figured out if you can help something along with a long screwdriver.

Lotawood said:

Maybe also try pushing from outside if pushing on inside doesn't work. Push and pull.
If you have another latch, be sure to get the mechanics of opening figured out if you can help something along with a long screwdriver.

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This is a good idea. I'm fairly sure the latch mechanism is toast, so I ordered a new (OEM) latch tonight. Getting my hands on one will help me understand exactly how it works and where a well-placed screwdriver might unlatch it. In the meantime, I'll keep trying

Or just sit in the car with a case of beer and tell your wife she is an ugly *****
she will get it open !

peiphil said:

Or just sit in the car with a case of beer and tell your wife she is an ugly *****
she will get it open !

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Excellent advice. She got it open!

Actually I got it open. Grabbed the end of the inner cable with vice grips in my right and yanked hard repeatedly and fast while tugging on the door with my left. Probably 100 pulls and I heard a click and it opened!

UPDATE: Out of the car I tried to repeat the opening and after pulling 30 or 40 times was only able to do it once. Obviously something inside has failed or is failing.

Door Lock Spring

OK so when putting the new latch in, I made the mistake of reading the procedure in the Bentley manual and I learned something new. The outer cable is connected to a lever that pivots to open the latch when you pull on the door handle. What I didn't ever realize is that there is a lock spring that is supposed to fit in an undercut in the lever arm. (I've installed these things multiple times without ever reading the manual and never realized the spring had to be connected to the lever.)
Anyway, the manual calls for special tool T100034 which, surprisingly, I do not own. Here is a picture from the manual:

I tried for close to an hour to get this thing connected but no luck. Is there a way to do this without the tool? How necessary is the spring? (I've never connected it and I watched several YouTube videos including Deutsch Auto Parts that do not bother to connect it.) Just to get it back on the road, I may be able to put it back together without connecting the spring and just order the tool. Thoughts?

1 too many zeros. 50. on ebay for the tool. It looks simple to make.