HELP! Bew sudden white smoke and oil intercooler!

I was taking off from a stop when I lost power and the car started smoking I’ll bigtime; I checked the intercooler and about a pint - half a quart poured out oil; I started the car to move it in the parking lot and it stopped smoking but what do I do now? Did my turbo blow? Can I still drive it?? Please help I’m waiting to hear back!

Thank you all

I wouldn't drive or start it at all until you know. If that oil would have made it into the intake your engine would be junk from hydrolocking. Only two ways for oil to get to the intercooler. Turbo or engine breather. So oil there is expected. Your engine could also run away burning the oil and not allowing control of the engine. The flapper on your intake is suppose to stop that if you turn your key off.

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How can I check if oil got into my intake?

What do I do to proceed with this now?

Also the motor has 200k miles

Please delete your duplicate thread in the 101 section.

I dont know how to do that; Can someone help?

Open the other, click edit, click advanced, delete. I believe this feature goes away after x days. If not just forget about it, you may get more friendly reminders, but we will at some point get back to helping.
We know some amount of oily substance does collect in the bottom. What I don't know is if the normal is actually engine oil or diesel residue. We also know heavy acceleration on a nice hot motor keeps it clear. At this point, do not do that as you would be risking run away (bad).

Take the hose off the turbo so you can feel for shaft play and see if there is rubbing on the housing. There is some play in the shaft but not much.

Amount of oil looks deceiving. Are you sure it is the amount you said?

I hope it isn't diesel in the intercooler as I can't find a path that would get it there.

Sometimes you have to drive it like you stole it with an Italian tuneup. That keeps the turbo vanes from clogging and keeps the oil down in the intercooler.

You need to check the turbo before driving. If that is ok then you should look towards injection system next.

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Because there was no runaway, you may still be fine. Disconnect the pipe that goes from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet and push on the compressor wheel with your fingers; if there is noticeable movement your turbo has likely died. If there is just a few thousands of movement in-and-out and side to side you may be alright Just to be safe, can you remove the glow plugs and then crank the engine to be sure there is no oil pooled up above the pistons?

Thanks everyone im on it right now and will post back with results!

I have to think you will find enough play in the turbo to replace it.

Axial (in and out)and radial play (side to side) are usually what you need to know.

Some radial play is normal. The wheel should not be able to stall on the housing. That would be the limit of what we would allow. Usually, the radial play is less than.010"

Axial play must be minimal. If you can feel it, it's probably excessive. What happens with axial play is the seal rings on the shaft going to the inducer (exhaust wheel) or the groove they run in have become worn. The movement on the shaft is allowing exhaust gases to enter the turbo or under low speed situations, oil can exit the inducer side. Under pressure, the exhaust gasses will blow the oil through the cartridge and into the compressor wheel. It also loses the control distance for the inducer, causing contact at the wide part of the inducer wheel.

It takes very little axial play in order for a turbo to be ruined. If you can feel axial play, it's most likely excessive. Normal is about .001"

We can offer some good options.

Thanks for the advice - Turbo was screwed up badly; what could the causes be? Too much heat? I wasnt driving it very hard when this happened just regular shifting 2.5k-3k rpm


I ordered up a turbo and need an oil line; should i get one that is a bigger bore to allow more oil in? One shop recommended this but idk what to say


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Possibly wrong oil used in it's early life messed with it. Or some other occurrence. They are pretty tough. They don't like ingesting oil from the piping. I would stick with the same size oil supply and return. Check the other oil line as well, they can "coke up".

Sometimes they just fail. It is a very high speed item. Jetta I now have had one turbo from warranty, then brother had one turbo go with the exhaust side snapping off. The warranty one made it to the piston tops as you could see the impacts of little pieces. Different engine in it now after a timing belt fail at 80k miles (2miles from home with belt ready to change right after the last turbo.

Good luck.

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Oh man; so much work on these vehicles! I try to maintain every little part on it and things come up regardless; whats your guys' take on prius's? LOL

I own around 9 vehicles not including motorcycles - that are always in some form of repair. Get enough of the same vehicle and you now have spare parts to troubleshoot with. The car I swapped the engine out - I robbed the tranny one weekend for the other golf due to bad diff bearings. So I also had to find a tranny to put back into the engine car.

golfere said:

whats your guys' take on prius's? LOL

Click to expand...

Roller skates are faster.

Lol; So i am buying the turbo feed line as mine creased and twisted; Looks like there are 2 options for the junction bolt and the oil line


-larger inlet junction for more oil to flow into stock turbo

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLKSWAGEN...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649




I can either get a small stock oil line with stock junction $30

Large oil line with larger inlet junction bolt $60

Is the larger port needed/beneficial or can there be negative effects?