NLMoschitta
Member
Im trying to replace my front and rear rotors, but can not get them off, what gives?! Any tips, hints, clues on what to do??
Rotors are stuck
- Thread starter NLMoschitta
- Start date
ecarnell
Veteran Member
Rubber mallet all the way around... Repeat.
dweisel
Top Post Dawg
Make sure you remove the countersunk screw on the face of the rotor.
nate379
Veteran Member
3lb sledge and hit rotor hat around in circle. Somtimes have to put some heat/pentrating oil as well.
Rubber mallet.... ahahahahahhaa
Rubber mallet.... ahahahahahhaa
MostroDiesel
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You want to avoid metal-to-metal hammering here, if you can. In theory, it can damage wheel bearings if you whang away without the use of a rubber or deadblow hammer.
I've had some rotors that wouldn't budge without a torch to heat them up. Rust and heating/cooling cycles can do this over time. Relatively rare.
Let's hope it's a matter of forgetting to remove the setscrews!
I've had some rotors that wouldn't budge without a torch to heat them up. Rust and heating/cooling cycles can do this over time. Relatively rare.
Let's hope it's a matter of forgetting to remove the setscrews!
NLMoschitta
Member
I had the set screw out, lol. It seems that all 4 are stuck on there pretty good. I think the car spent time in the north with its previous owner, and i am in the south. We dont have salted roads and stuff here. I started off with the rubber mallet, nothing. Moved up to a light hammer, and i had a washcloth drapped over the rotor to avoid direct metal on metal contact; still nothing. Off to pick up a new tourch and some PB blaster.
'preciate the help guys!
Nick
'preciate the help guys!
Nick
nate379
Veteran Member
Metal to metal to get a good sharp "crack" to the rotor to break loose the rust. Sometimes what I will do is use 2 sledges and put one against the rotor and hit it with the other hammer.
AND before someone says it's bad to hit a hammer with another... it's not true. Mythbusters even did a show on it.
AND before someone says it's bad to hit a hammer with another... it's not true. Mythbusters even did a show on it.
NLMoschitta
Member
Im worried about doing damage to other parts while im beating on these rotors lol
MostroDiesel
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You'll need a welder's torch (oxy/ace). A propane torch for use on copper plumbing won't create enough heat. You need to get those rotors cherry red in order to expand them off the hub.
I hate to say it but if you're not budging those rotors at this stage, it might be well to consider taking the car to a mechanic with a full complement of (expensive) equipment and just bite the bullet.
MayorDJQ
Top Post Dawg
When you put the new rotors on, use some anti-seize.
dweisel
Top Post Dawg
If the screws are out...................you just have to give'um a good wack. Spray some penetrating oil on them first and apply whatever heat you can.
pawel
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+1. spray wb40 into the lug nut holes and give it some time. then using a rubber mallet wack it few times rotating the rotor. if still on, repeat spray and wack...
I just did the same thing to my car. The fronts were stuck on good. Some PB Blaster around the center hole and a few good whacks with a railroad hammer (a small one) broke them free. No issues to report as of yet.
WD-40 is a lubricant, not a penetrating oil. Heat will help too, but as stated above, brake rotors are built to take and dissipate immense amounts of heat...so it will take a lot to heat them up.
Try alternating hitting from the inside and outside. If you can turn the wheel to the lock to expose the rear of the rotor, that will help. Like I said, worked for me.
WD-40 is a lubricant, not a penetrating oil. Heat will help too, but as stated above, brake rotors are built to take and dissipate immense amounts of heat...so it will take a lot to heat them up.
Try alternating hitting from the inside and outside. If you can turn the wheel to the lock to expose the rear of the rotor, that will help. Like I said, worked for me.
Beat the crap out of them with a sledge... they're just rusted on. You ought to try to get some of the rotors off of newer trucks... there's not pussyfooting around with a rubber mallet in that case. In all honesty, I would be more concerned about heating a rotor cherry red than hitting it with a hammer when it comes to damaging wheel bearings... You're trying to hit it to break it loose, not knock it off. I generally find hitting it around the center of the rotor breaks them loose with a couple good whacks.
Hurst
Hurst
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PB blaster around the hub face where it meets the rotors. Get a cup of coffee.
Come back, and with a good rubber mallet, start beating away at it. A few whacks and they should fall off.
Come back, and with a good rubber mallet, start beating away at it. A few whacks and they should fall off.
MonsterTDI09
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You want metal the metal contact .The vibration will break up the rust.Also wear safety glasses.Good luck
so2315
Veteran Member
Alnicocunife
Member
Metal to Metal crushing blows. It sounds great the "ringing" of the large ball peen hammer striking the (soon to be destroyed) rotors. Over and over again in frustration then finally.... pling they pop loose and you feel like you have finally accomplished something. Make sure you have new rotors.
Good Luck
Good Luck
MayorDJQ
Top Post Dawg
Well yes, the rotors are "disposable". There's no turning the rotors on VWs.
When all else fails to get them off, bash them with a hammer. That's exactly what I did on my '09. They finally came off. Put some anti-seize on the mating surfaces when re-installing.
smith2515
Member
Sorry for calling you out Mayor but why do you say no turning the rotors. I just had my rotors turned after they measured them and said no problem. The back of the rotors were pretty bad but now as good as new. $35 for new rotors versus $8 a piece was a no brainer for me. Thanks for all the help in the past everyone.
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I'd say it's not worth wasting money on turning the rotors.
Front rotors new is 22 mm. Wear limit is 19 mm. So only 3 mm, 1.5 mm per side.
Thinner rotors are more likely to wrap, they heat up faster, etc.
Rear rotors new are 10 mm. Wear limit is 8 mm. Only 1 mm per side of wearable surface.
Considering labour and the necessity to replace them in near future, I always choose new versus turning them.
Front rotors new is 22 mm. Wear limit is 19 mm. So only 3 mm, 1.5 mm per side.
Thinner rotors are more likely to wrap, they heat up faster, etc.
Rear rotors new are 10 mm. Wear limit is 8 mm. Only 1 mm per side of wearable surface.
Considering labour and the necessity to replace them in near future, I always choose new versus turning them.
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
As Henrick stated, turning modern Dub rotors is a waste of time and money. Let us know when your "turned" rotor warp. I can predict new rotors long before the pads wear out.
The "no brainer" part is that if you replace the pads and rotors together, you will have zero disk warping issues for the service life of the pads.
When you cheap out on something, it usually causes you to spend more in the long run than if you had done it correctly the first time.
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Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
Not correct. WD-40 states on the can that it is also a penetrate. I would not use it for a lubricant because of that because the penetrate part of the formulation would wash away most of the lubricating properties of WD-40.
sptsailing
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A MAP torch might
A MAP torch might create enough heat, as they are significantly hotter than propane torches. You can ice the hub simultaneously to create a greater differential.
smith2515
Member
***update***
To clarify on the turned rotors. These were the original rotors which I had turned on my 2006 and not a 2009 like Mayor. Ol'Rattler is correct - I did replace the brake pads at the same time. It has been coming up on two years and working great. Turn the original rotors if you can!
To clarify on the turned rotors. These were the original rotors which I had turned on my 2006 and not a 2009 like Mayor. Ol'Rattler is correct - I did replace the brake pads at the same time. It has been coming up on two years and working great. Turn the original rotors if you can!
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
Already posted earlier.
Tdijarhead
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All you need is a 3lb hammer. Hit the rotor hat like you were trying to put it on and it won’t go. It’ll come off, this is what we deal with all the time up north here. Metal to metal make it sing. Don’t hit the outer surface the pads ride on.
Edit: I need to watch closer, these threads get dug up from the grave and it looks like someone is having a serious issue. My 02 cents 7 years late.
Edit: I need to watch closer, these threads get dug up from the grave and it looks like someone is having a serious issue. My 02 cents 7 years late.
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