Any Other Suggestions Preventative MX Wise?

ratkc135 · Mar 28, 2017

So the 02 I picked up a couple weeks ago I've done the following:

- Oil/Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Liqui Moly Diesel Purge
- Trans Gear Oil
- Coolant Tank (old one was starting to disintegrate); so dealer did that and a flush
- Suspension is next...I have all the parts for all four corners (she rides a bit boat like on original suspension with 167K
- Various other cosmetic and lighting fixes/preventative parts

TB was done by reputable shop around 8K ago

I've read vacuum hoses should/could be replaced...that necessary? Or just wait until they pose a problem?

Anything else I should do to avoid a "drive to fail"? I'm hoping I can get at least 100K more out of her....200K would be even better! I want her to be as dependable as my '13 TDI (minus the dieselgate shenanigans....). I'd rather get some about to fail wear parts replaced at my convenience versus getting stranded somewhere I guess is how I'm looking at it...lol

UhOh · Mar 28, 2017

Cabin air filter.

If the engine's performance is good and fuel economy is good then I'd leave it be. At some point, if you're thinking about doing work on the car yourself then I'd get VCDS.

Only vacuum thing I've had to deal with on my cars is the hard line to the brake booster on the wife's car. And, actually, nothing was wrong with what was there- I replaced it because it was someone's made-up line (not the factory hard line): it's my wife's DD; not going to have her operating anything that's not up to good standards- she has a fairly treacherous back-roads commute.

Most anything that could fail is likely going to give you plenty of warning. I'm thinking stuff like wheel bearings. There's plenty of stuff that will wear out and start making noises, but a lot doesn't tend to come to a point of total failure (one usually will get tired of the noise and get it fixed first).

If you don't have leaks of anything, to any significant degree (always going to be slight dribbles/weeps here or there), then concentrate on your suspension, brake, tires and such.

whitedog · Mar 28, 2017

Ha! I lived with my worsening wheel bearing noise for something like 10,000 miles and probably six months including a trip to TDIfest. The noise was horrible, but there wasn't any danger of me chasing my front wheel of into the pucker brush. So, most certainly, there are many things that will tell you they need attention before they finally give up the ghost.

UhOh · Mar 28, 2017

A failing wheel bearing will go 11k miles, didn't you know?

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

I forgot I did air filter too....and flushed the brakes. There was a lot of debris in the brake lines that clogged the bleeders. Seems fine now...not real sure where that debris comes from however...

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

UhOh said:
Cabin air filter.

If the engine's performance is good and fuel economy is good then I'd leave it be. At some point, if you're thinking about doing work on the car yourself then I'd get VCDS.

Only vacuum thing I've had to deal with on my cars is the hard line to the brake booster on the wife's car. And, actually, nothing was wrong with what was there- I replaced it because it was someone's made-up line (not the factory hard line): it's my wife's DD; not going to have her operating anything that's not up to good standards- she has a fairly treacherous back-roads commute.

Most anything that could fail is likely going to give you plenty of warning. I'm thinking stuff like wheel bearings. There's plenty of stuff that will wear out and start making noises, but a lot doesn't tend to come to a point of total failure (one usually will get tired of the noise and get it fixed first).

If you don't have leaks of anything, to any significant degree (always going to be slight dribbles/weeps here or there), then concentrate on your suspension, brake, tires and such.

When I look up the 2002 Jetta in my amsoil account it doesn't show a cabin air filter....so I assumed it didn't have one. So it does have one?

I do have VCDS...got it when I got my '13 Passt. Used it already when I was getting the flashing glow plug light....caused by a certain company sending the wrong brake light LEDs. They sent the correct ones (with different load resistors) and it's good now. So it already has helped me!

Engine performance is great. I'm 1/4 way through my first tank of fuel...so I'll know before long how economy is doing. PO said it was getting 47-48 pretty consistently.

Sounds like no need to do anything else but drive her. It looks to me the vacuum lines are OE...the cloth covered lines. They look ok to me...but not sure I'd know if they weren't lol. Nothing obvious as far as tears, falling apart, degradation, etc.

BobnOH · Mar 29, 2017

Yes, has a cabin filter.
If those vacuum tubes are original, I'd replace them with silicon and the fuels return tubes with Viton (or equal)

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

BobnOH said:
Yes, has a cabin filter.
If those vacuum tubes are original, I'd replace them with silicon and the fuels return tubes with Viton (or equal)

Thanks! I appreciate the heads up. I don't know what I don't know. I just looked at the cabin filter and it looks surprisingly new. So I'll wait on it. I knocked out the large debris and the filter media is still very white. It couldn't have been in there too long.

I'm going to attach some pics of the engine compartment to see what you all think....about the vacuum lines. Are there kits out there for the ALH? I've googled but haven't come across anything obvious. Or would vacuum and fuel returns be just a matter of being x feet and cutting/replacing?

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

It must have been dark...or I was half asleep. Looking today...I do see some fraying on the lines....I'm not 100% sure what all is vacuum. I know the main ones from seeing videos though. The mention of fuel return tubes...not sure exactly what all those are either...I'll have to research.

BobnOH · Mar 29, 2017

Those look original, clothe covered rubber, hard to see when the rubber gets brittle.
They do sell kits. There are also lists of what you need in some user signatures and in various posts. You'll find a white plastic one-way valve up near the N75, not a bad idea to replace that, do some strong research and avoid the ridiculous price VW charges.
Places like McMaster-Carr carry the silicon tubes in various colors and firmness. They also carry the Viton tubes, those are the ones that run between the injectors and back to the IP, they look just like the others.
For some search help try this custom engine (don't use the key-in field at the top)

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

BobnOH said:
Those look original, clothe covered rubber, hard to see when the rubber gets brittle.
They do sell kits. There are also lists of what you need in some user signatures and in various posts. You'll find a white plastic one-way valve up near the N75, not a bad idea to replace that, do some strong research and avoid the ridiculous price VW charges.
Places like McMaster-Carr carry the silicon tubes in various colors and firmness. They also carry the Viton tubes, those are the ones that run between the injectors and back to the IP, they look just like the others.
For some search help try this custom engine (don't use the key-in field at the top)

I used that search you gave me....excellent tip!

Found:
A4 B/G/J ALH: 10 foot of black 3 mm. 5 foot black 4mm.
With all these numbers, you will have some left over. Not a bad thing to have a little vacuum tube around.

Viton hose: 3 foot is more than you need. You will have some left over after replacing the interinjector lines and return line to the injection pump.

He had links to McMaster-Carr. Getting blue 3mm; black 4mm (only color I see) and the viton hose. Now to get smart on where all the lines are...lol.

Searching for that check valve...gonna try idparts here shortly.

Should I replace all the plastic "T"s/various shapes, etc. Don't see any clamps on the stuff with fabric over it...but I think some lines are just rubber (non original) that have been replaced that do have clamps.

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

Just noticed ipparts says 3mm and 5mm...which contradicts what I just found on a forum here (mentioned above)...maybe 1mm ID doesn't matter...and the 4mm is just more snug...???

I see they also have the check valve for $40. I found a diagram: (and it shows two check valves). I assume there are two...and I hope this diagram is accurate!

BobnOH · Mar 29, 2017

You can just do them one at a time, no risk of misconnects. Or just get a diagram and insure they weren't wrong before.
If you have trouble getting them off simply slice along the tube. They usually have a clamp on the lower one (turbo actuator), but the new hose is actually 0.5mm smaller and stays on pretty good without a clamp. ID Parts will likely be high on that valve, it is a simple one-way valve, yours could be fine, test it. Otherwise some deep searching to find it for like $5 or $10.

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

BobnOH said:
You can just do them one at a time, no risk of misconnects. Or just get a diagram and insure they weren't wrong before.
If you have trouble getting them off simply slice along the tube. They usually have a clamp on the lower one (turbo actuator), but the new hose is actually 0.5mm smaller and stays on pretty good without a clamp. ID Parts will likely be high on that valve, it is a simple one-way valve, yours could be fine, test it. Otherwise some deep searching to find it for like $5 or $10.

Looking for the check valve now (for cheaper)...it was $41 from any VW related business.

UhOh · Mar 29, 2017

17 years and still running with the original vacuum lines on my car! At some point I'll look to stock up some tubing: wife's car's lines might also be original- 17 years old as well!

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/433862117-MFG93.aspx

Don't think I'll find much better...may grab some "T" fittings too...won't hurt...more so if I end up breaking one...or more! If I find some that work...that part number for T fittings on that site says it won't fit when I check on ECS Tuning...

PGM jetta · Mar 29, 2017

Try to twist a little before trying to jerk then off. It will keep you from breaking a plastic nipple on a $50 part. Vacuum hoses are easily replaced and very cheap

Also, take a look in your intake. Do a search for ALH intake cleaning and you'll find tons of good info

ratkc135 · Mar 29, 2017

PGM jetta said:
Try to twist a little before trying to jerk then off. It will keep you from breaking a plastic nipple on a $50 part. Vacuum hoses are easily replaced and very cheap

Also, take a look in your intake. Do a search for ALH intake cleaning and you'll find tons of good info

Haven't looked to see if it's even an option on the 02....but has anyone used VCDS to set the EGR to minimum to slow buildup in the intake?

Any Other Suggestions Preventative MX Wise?

ratkc135

Veteran Member

UhOh

Top Post Dawg

whitedog

Veteran Member

UhOh

Top Post Dawg

ratkc135

Veteran Member

ratkc135

Veteran Member

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic

ratkc135

Veteran Member

ratkc135

Veteran Member

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic

ratkc135

Veteran Member

ratkc135

Veteran Member

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic

ratkc135

Veteran Member

UhOh

Top Post Dawg

ratkc135

Veteran Member

PGM jetta

Veteran Member

ratkc135

Veteran Member