CFWA engine 1.2 TDI ecomotive

Hi, I am from the U.K. Congrats for a great Forum, and I fully aprieciate that most of you in Canada and the USA may not be able to help or have even come accross the smaller engined VW models, but someone reading this somewhere may be able to shed some light. The CFWA engine is 3 cylinder 1.2 ltrs TDI 75bhp, in cars like the Polo and Ibiza capable though of well in excess of Highway speeds but more importantly of 80 miles per gallon on a long run.
( 800-950 miles to a tank of 53 ltrs ) mine is 4yrs old and has 91,000 miles on it. Such a great vehicle I will now keep it and invest the time and major service work needed as it aproaches 100,000 miles.
Q. my Ibiza 2013 mk5 ( spanish VW Polo ) both have the CFWA 3cylinder short motor, Is it possible to change the Cambelt and all components including rensioner without removing the engine mount and without raising and lowering the engine to gain the access ? It looks to have a lot more space round it to work unlike the bigger transverse engines. I am on a budget and dont want to buy an engine support beam if I dont have to. I know I could jack up the engine from under but dont like the idea, it comes with some risk.
I would really aprieciate any contributions and thank all who read this . Thank you. Rob.

Hi Rob, Welcome to the forums!

As far as your question, photos would really help, but you can figure it out yourself really. The main question is this: does the engine mount have a connection to the engine that goes through the loop of the timing belt?

In the ALH, which I am most familiar with, there is a brace that bolts to the engine, and then that brace bolts to the pendulum mount that bolts to the body. The brace has a bolt that goes right through the middle of the timing belt loop. If you draw a line between the tensioner and the water pump, one of the brace's bolts (there's 3) goes pretty much in the middle of that line. Ergo, you can't get the timing belt off without supporting the engine and removing the brace.

But, there's hope. If you take a look at the ALH timing belt procedure you can download from this site or at least one other, or just search on this site, you will find that a lot of people use a 2x4 board across the bottom of the oil pan and a jack under that. Don't use the scissor jack (aka 'widow maker') that comes with the car - they don't last long and are notoriously weak. Borrow a good hydraulic jack that will work well.

If your engine has a cast oil pan like the ALH (and I really don't know, but VW tends to do things similarly across the different engines) then it will be strong enough to do the job as long as you use the 2x4 board to spread the load. If you use only the jack, you will point-load the pan and crack it.

Hope that helps,

Cheers!

PH

Thanks for the reply, that all makes perfect sence, looking down on it, the mount is 'Y' shaped with more than enough room for the top part of the belt and rollers to be taken off, what cant be easily seen is what goes on down the side of the engine bay at the bottom of the mount and as you say, does it join the engine case on the inside of the belt . I will shine a lead light from undernieth and take some stuff out of the way to get a better view. Thanks again.

North America PD engines BEW, BRM and BHW all need the passenger engine mount removed in order to replace the timing belt.

I have done it both supporting the engine from the bottom or top. At least with my cheap engine support bar (top) doesn't provide the same amount of freedom and control as a jack from the bottom. YMMV.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!

Nope, nope...BHW is not transversely mounted, so I doubt a motor mount has to be disconnected to change the timing belt

pedroYUL said:

North America PD engines BEW, BRM and BHW all need the passenger engine mount removed in order to replace the timing belt.

Click to expand...

The engine mount does not have to be removed to change the timing belt on the BRM.