ALH VNT-17 turbo oil feed line fitting specs

Does anyone know the thread specs for the fittings in the turbo and the block side near the oil filter? I don’t have the line with me but want to see if a performance shop I’ve used in the past for custom plumbing can create a replacement line on my way home.

I know the feed point side has a banjo fitting that can be eliminated. What is the thread spec on that bolt?

Thanks

I pulled the factory hard line off. It looks like the compression farrel or sp? On the turbo side is a bit elongated, but no obvious wear marks. Of course the line wasn’t supported anywhere along its length which felt what I am reading probably stressed this area. Thanks $@@&&” of Colorado Springs.

Is there any way to get the turbo side fitting off without using some modified wrench? Thinwall 14mm socket maybe? My guess is there may be some elongation in that end too. I’m going to get a line made. Doesn’t look like I’ll have that turbo end fitting off. M14-1.5 is it or?

So, the turbo side oil feed fitting came out easily with 17 mm socket. The fitting going in is a M10 x 1.0 with a 14mm hex for the wrench/socket.

The banjo fitting and bolt replacement is 12-1.5.

The compression fitting at the turbo end was slightly elongated the opening the oil flows through that is, and had a low spot where it had worn away, so that’s where the leak came from. The guru shop in Colorado Springs that installed it either left it loose or tight and it ended up this way. So the car will be starting on it’s third turbo oil feed at 293k and this one will finally
Be right and installed right and not a failure prone pos to begin with.

I am using 3' of 4AN hose. I have already mocked it up to the former banjo fitting end under the oil filter. Its length is fine, could be longer or shorter and still be fine.

However, that M10x1.0 fitting using a 2" length of rubber hose off the end of it to be able to control it, got wedged down immediately to the rear of the car from where the oil fitting goes, down in those brackets and what not. It is impossible or nearly impossible to get it up and out for another attempt with one arm and whatever tools I can manipulate it with. It sometimes moves about 1mm in any direction and other times as much as 3-5 but cant get it up and out. I have tried to recover it for about 1.5 hours and decided to take a break.... truly a laugh or cry scenario pretty typical with this thing.

I am an average mechanic for my experience. I have pulled engines, did an auto to manual trans swap once on a race car I built etc. Swapped rear ends on my own etc. etc. I am more a theory guy whether automotive or aeronautics etc.

I like the way this car drives for what it is for the most part. I like the efficiency and the general big picture durability, but it is one of the most piss money away frustrating to work on cars I would ever want, and I barely want it about half the time due to some of this nonsense. It's like it's conspiring against me. To get the hard line out I had pulled a coolant hose that descends straight down out of that manifold at the back of the engine. As some coolant was surging out I noticed there's about a 3/4" hole in the top of the bell housing that it started pouring down into for a bit till I caught it. should there be a plug of some sort in that hole? My guess is yes... now i am guessing there's a good chance the clutch will want to slip to one degree or another when I go to drive it after the rest of this is complete.

There is a good chance I will leave that fitting sitting wedged in right where it is, go get another and be even more careful than I already was to get the fitting in the hole and finish the rest of the job which is only 5 min worth....literally. This is a 10-15 min job total that will end up at 2-3 hours considering all the hassle and trip to go get another fitting if I have to.

The place I am using is a place I was last at in the late 90s early 2000s while working on one race car or another. I am glad I went back. I will likely be back and likely recommend them to reproduce this line for those of you who want or need to do the swap and just about anything else plumbing related for your TDI or whatever. I have never done mail order with them but I will ask about it probably tomorrow see if they'd be willing. It was expensive but much less expensive than I paid for another piece and same quality or higher I am sure.

Anyway the more frustrating than it needs to be saga continues... I will post up more later preferably at completion.

So got everything in and cinched up. I had to create a tool using a paperclip with tiny fishhook at end to grab that fitting by pulling it up through center hole...still took 15 minutes to come loose, bad place to drop it.

I left torque on the fittings engine side an estimated 25 or so, short of 30 I think. No leaks. The compression fittings I just cinched down. No leaks anywhere.

I climbed away from the house and sure enough near end of clutch engagement it chattered heavily. After 5 minute drive it was more than 50% less chattering and I could not get the clutch to slip at all in any gear. I figure I better go drive it for a while to dry out that friction surface sooner rather than later so it doesn't soak in, have no idea if it's ruined or compromised at this point. It's got 293k miles on the original clutch and will be changed at about 300k any way. The flywheel is doing that chattering when engaged. Push out the clutch the clatter goes away. STill engages smoothly and doesn't slip when not covered in 50/50 G13/distilled.

Spirited drive to fill tank. No leaks on any fittings. I'll check again after 1-2 heats cycles but it appears to be a success.

I may have the line I pruchased from Kerma up for sale at a modest discount shortly.

Used double dose of diesel kleen winter formula just because thats what I had. Engine ran well. It ran very smoothly and clutch is 98% back to normal. Strangely my clutch/flywheel noise while clutch is engaged in neutral went away. I haven't not heard it in over a year, 10K plus miles so that's no fluke and I am curious why.

what was the cost in parts to fab your own line?

I think parts were 40-45 labor 5-10