98 Jetta Engine Removal

Hey All, Welp My Timing Belt Is Still Intact And It Seems As If I Have No Compression So I Am Preparing To Pull It And Dig In, Was Just Wondering If There Are Any Tips I Need To Know Before Before Starting, I Have All Data, But Just Want To Make Sure...Also, Is THere Anyone Who May Be Able To Help Me As Far As An Engine Or Possibly A Rebuild Kit Or Parts (To Buy)..Thank You In Advance



Thanks
-Tim-

Bassnut144 said:

Hey All, Welp My Timing Belt Is Still Intact And It Seems As If I Have No Compression So I Am Preparing To Pull It And Dig In, Was Just Wondering If There Are Any Tips I Need To Know Before Before Starting, I Have All Data, But Just Want To Make Sure...Also, Is THere Anyone Who May Be Able To Help Me As Far As An Engine Or Possibly A Rebuild Kit Or Parts (To Buy)..Thank You In Advance



Thanks
-Tim-

Click to expand...

Tim, Why exactly are you planning on removing the engine? Can you be more specific as to the compression in each cylinder? Some background, history of the car, mods, maintenance etc. ?

I'm a fan of pulling the front of the car off to aid in access of engine removal.

Some people like dropping the engine and subframe together. Some like pull the engine up through the hood opening. Some like going up slightly and then out the front (once the front end is off)

Not matter what I have always pulled the engine and transmission together. The amount of time that it takes to pull the transmission is almost equal to that of pulling the engine and transmission.

I agree that you should diagnose the engine while its still in the car. Check the timing on all three items (crank, cam & IP) Then check the compression. If those are good then you need to keep diagnosing. It would suck to do all of the work and find out it was an electrical problem.

I have an engine that had good compression in two cylinders almost none in two. Turned out to be gunked up valves. Did valve job,cleaned intake, good to go. Double check compression gauge, odd you have no compression.

I had one that had low compression in one pot. Ran rough and smoked like hell. Turned out to be stuck oil ring.

Pulling it out the top is not very difficult if you have a load leveler.I like to pull the hood, REMEMBER to mark the position of the bolts with a sharpie so you can put it back together quickly. Once you get it free keep the transmission as low as possible until the sump is free of the core support. Level it back out and you are good to go.

If you have ABS it is going to really get in your way, you can do it but you will probably need to pull the whole transmission bracket off.


If your A/C is still in good working order I would pull the compressor and leave it still attached to the car if possible.

Ok guys, this is what happened...My pump was leaking and a couple weeks ago I was going to replace it, well that day I went to the bank and as I was pulling into the parking space my oil light came on, so I checked the oil and it was full, I figured maybe it was just starting to thin out and also planned an oil change after the pump. Well, on my way back to work i was driving on the highway around 65-70 and all of a sudden she just died, so I pushed the clutch in and let her coast as far as I could, once I came to a stop I hit the key and it sounded like the starter was just spinning freely, my first thought was the timing belt broke, but i looked and it was still good, I left the car there and had it towed to a very trusted garage. The owner said it could be a broken or jumped tooth. He checked it out and said, being that the belt is in tact, the car overheated, the starter spins freely and the coolant has a very distinct smell that its possible that there was internal damage. So I planned on pulling the engine and investigating a bit further. Also, I cant do a compression check, becuase the engine is not turning over (unless you guys know something I dont, seriously)...Thanks again for your help guys!!!...

let me get this straight, you drove a car with a an oil warning light going off down the hwy doing 65-70? I think you were right in wanting to yank it. Plan on getting a different motor.

Ok, So heres an update...I pulled the timing belt cover off and took a look at the belt and gears and the teeth on both are still intact and when you turn the key to start it all the timing gears do still turn, but it sounds like the starter is just free spinning as if its not engaging the flywheel, yet obviously it is...Any ideas or help...please...haha...

The lack of compression would make the starter operate as if it had much less resistance.
The lack of sufficient oil pressure would create an accelerated wear condition that could quickly result in a low or no compression engine.

Do you have access to a 'blow down' gauge and someone with the expertise to interpret the readings? A blow down test uses compressed air (instead of piston compression) to pressurize a cylinder. The rate of pressure loss, or hearing where the air is escaping the engine can be used to narrow down trouble areas.

i do have one at work, but getting them to let me bring it home is a different story...haha...I really apreciate all the help guys and i dont mean to sound like a complete boob...ive been a mechanic for sometime now but i dont have much experience with Volkswagens or Diesels (other than military vehicles)