Key Fob Programming W/ VCDS

Ive been reading and cant find out a simple answer, is this a hard task to program a key fob? I dont need the key cut out, just a spare incase my car locks up with the key inside as it did this once but the sunroof was open;


any advice on how difficult this will be? What do i need? thanks!

Search is your friend and mine-
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=374511

Yeah I saw this but thats if you have 2 keys; I only have 1 at the moment

Why not get a spare key cut so you can manually open the door?

You can buy a spare key from fixmyvw.com. They sell the complete FOB but you will need to send them proof of ownership (driver's license and registration information).

There are two parts of programming needed (if you want to actually make it fully work) for a key FOB, the immobilizer chip and the remote keyless entry.

Once you have the FOB, you will then need to find someone with VCDS and VagTacho. VagTacho is needed to get the PIN number so the VCDS can then reprogram the immobilizer pairing of the FOB. The remote access is also done with VCDS, but the PIN is not used for that.

I recommend renting the VAG Tacho to get the code. Small fee, big deposit.
There are copies of the software floating around the interweb, just about all are infected.
If you are computer savvy enough and your situation permits, this can be dealt with as well.

BobnOH said:

I recommend renting the VAG Tacho to get the code. Small fee, big deposit.
There are copies of the software floating around the interweb, just about all are infected.
If you are computer savvy enough and your situation permits, this can be dealt with as well.

Click to expand...

The VagTacho drivers don't seem to work on 64 bit Windows either. I have an older laptop just to run it correctly. If anyone has made it work differently I would be grateful to know what you did.

Vagtacho install on Windows 10 64 bit

I downloaded the vagk.zip and drivers.zip files from http://maltchev.com/kiti/ Note the zip file password.
On a Windows 10 Pro 64bit laptop, I unzipped vagk.zip and put the files in a vagtacho directory off of the root of C: and put the contents of the drivers.zip under the same directory. Plugged in the vagtacho cable to the obd port and the laptop.
Checked the Device Manager tool for a USB device that wasn't happy and updated the drivers for it by pointing to the c:\vagtacho\drivers directory.
Ran the vagtacho software and it all worked.

stevesimmons said:

I downloaded the vagk.zip and drivers.zip files from http://maltchev.com/kiti/ Note the zip file password.
On a Windows 10 Pro 64bit laptop, I unzipped vagk.zip and put the files in a vagtacho directory off of the root of C: and put the contents of the drivers.zip under the same directory. Plugged in the vagtacho cable to the obd port and the laptop.
Checked the Device Manager tool for a USB device that wasn't happy and updated the drivers for it by pointing to the c:\vagtacho\drivers directory.
Ran the vagtacho software and it all worked.

Click to expand...

Infected with Win32/Fuery.A!cl

Not saying that this is safe, but this is the description of that infection:

This threat has been identified by heuristics as an emerging malware attack. There is no specific behavior that identifies this threat, since this threat is a collection of different malware types. This includes malware categories such as:
Bank theft
Botnets
Click-fraud
Ransomware
Trojans

Click to expand...

So this is not an infection exactly, but it looks like it "could be" "infection-like-behavior" which in a lot of cases means not much of anything.

Just use it on a bare install airgapped machine or a virtual machine with no network access anyway, and you will be fine. It can't steal anything if there isn't anything to steal and it has no network access.

FYI: Keygens and most cracked software come up with these kind of triggers when they have nothing at all in them - it is because they usually are cracked using a memory leak attack or a modified library file that doesn't pass a checksum anymore. A software firewall that traps outgoing connections should be your first install on ANY computer anyway, and would catch any bad behavior from something like this (if it existed) as it tried to leave the computer. When that happens, just block it, effectively removing network access for those processes. Then you can use it safely and go on about your day.

Yea, I can offer no expertise on just what it is. It would be prudent to run it on a spare machine you can simply wipe when you're done. Once you install and execute something like that, you've no idea what files it may modify.

Based on it only alerting to "heuristics" which is a predictive mode of testing that hits a LOT of false positives... I'd say it probably isn't modifying much of anything. But it is always a good plan to have a spare machine for working on cars anyway, netbooks are so cheap they are practically throwaway computers these days.

Folks: he just wants to open the door, not start the car. No SKC needed, nor VagTacho, nor virus if you cheat with a clone off eBay.

VCDS can add another fob to the car... instructions on Ross Tech's site.

That's right, simply need to program the car to recognize a remote.
The whole SKC tacho thing is for the chip to match the car. A fully functional 2nd key.
He did just want to add an fob to unlock the door in case he locks the keys in it. Although a simple cut key would do that, wouldn't it?

So whats easier and cost effective seeing that i have VCDS, getting the key cut or key fob remote only?

golfere said:

So whats easier and cost effective seeing that i have VCDS, getting the key cut or key fob remote only?

Click to expand...

I am not sure what you are asking or your goal with your questions.

With VCDS you can reprogram the remote access portion of a FOB. What does the cutting the key have to do with it? You would have to get that done anyway if you want it to manually unlock the car. Are you just wanting to buy part of a FOB and have it unlock the car remotely?

Yes just remotely unlock the car IF thats cheaper and easier than getting a key cut out

If you already have VCDS and a new key fob (ie the remote control part) you are done. 2 minutes programming to adapt the car to your new fob, instructions on Ross-Tech's web site.

*IF* all you are after is a way to let yourself into the car to get your real keys.

Yup thats it; Thanks you guys for the help! Ill post back if any other questions come up


Reason i started this thread was i didnt see on ross techs site just programming remote it seemed super complicated and they said you need 2 keys!

golfere said:

Yup thats it; Thanks you guys for the help! Ill post back if any other questions come up


Reason i started this thread was i didnt see on ross techs site just programming remote it seemed super complicated and they said you need 2 keys!

Click to expand...

Yah, not the clearest.

The "two keys" method is how you can do it if you *don't* have VCDS... but if you do you're all set.

Cool! Ill post results once im home to program;

main hassle was the car automatically locking and not having another way to open it!

But i had another key fob off my old golf and the battery is still good so i figured cant i just use that as my spare remote function on this?

golfere said:

Cool! Ill post results once im home to program;

main hassle was the car automatically locking and not having another way to open it!

But i had another key fob off my old golf and the battery is still good so i figured cant i just use that as my spare remote function on this?

Click to expand...

The automatically locking with the key still in the car is from having a bad driver door lock module. You need to fix that.

Not with keys in the ignition; I had it lock where someone would pull up my car and leave the keys in the cupholder you know? And if they pressed unlock or closed the trunk etc it would lock and alarm activated

Ill try to program my old key fob off the older golf i had and let you know how it goes

You cannot lock the all the doors with the inside lock switch from the driver door. The driver's door would stay unlocked. However, if you allow the non driver to do that from the passenger side then yeah, it would. Who does that?!

jokila said:

You cannot lock the all the doors with the inside lock switch from the driver door. The driver's door would stay unlocked. However, if you allow the non driver to do that from the passenger side then yeah, it would. Who does that?!

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Sometimes you can toggle that electrical switch on the door by pressing unlock twice and then lock to activate all the door locks. Ideally replacing the module in the door is the ultimate solution but arguably the toughest thing you will ever attempt at doing. More people own FOBs from that issue alone than any other reason.

stevesimmons said:

I downloaded the vagk.zip and drivers.zip files from http://maltchev.com/kiti/ Note the zip file password.
On a Windows 10 Pro 64bit laptop, I unzipped vagk.zip and put the files in a vagtacho directory off of the root of C: and put the contents of the drivers.zip under the same directory. Plugged in the vagtacho cable to the obd port and the laptop.
Checked the Device Manager tool for a USB device that wasn't happy and updated the drivers for it by pointing to the c:\vagtacho\drivers directory.
Ran the vagtacho software and it all worked.

Click to expand...

Sorry to necro a really old thread but I have a question directly related to this. Do these kinda tricks still work? I have an old laptop I can format and leave in the car so I wouldn't be worried about malware.


If I can get the software working would I just need to buy a cheap cable to connect the laptop?



Also can this kinda thing be done with VCDS too or just Vag-Tacho?


Thanks in advance for your knowledge, it would be super handy to have these tools but they cost more then I paid for my car

VAGtacho is used to retrieve the Secret Code. VCDS is used to input the code as well as set the number of keys.

Hi Bob,


Thanks and sorry I didn't ask my question very clearly.



What I meant was the user I quoted downloaded 2 files vagk.zip and drivers.zip


I don't see the drivers.zip file on the vag tacho site anymore. Also I was wondering will any OBDII to usb cable work with the software or is it a different proprietary connector?


Thanks again.

CrossCountryJetta said:

Hi Bob,


Thanks and sorry I didn't ask my question very clearly.



What I meant was the user I quoted downloaded 2 files vagk.zip and drivers.zip


I don't see the drivers.zip file on the vag tacho site anymore. Also I was wondering will any OBDII to usb cable work with the software or is it a different proprietary connector?


Thanks again.

Click to expand...

I don't think VCDS will pull the code. Vag tacho will do it all. All you need is a regular OBD cable with the program, nothing special.

Lastly, I forgot where I found it, but I Google searched and found the driver update for mine to get it working.

Vcds will not get the SKU code.

CrossCountryJetta said:

Hi Bob,


Thanks and sorry I didn't ask my question very clearly.



What I meant was the user I quoted downloaded 2 files vagk.zip and drivers.zip


I don't see the drivers.zip file on the vag tacho site anymore. Also I was wondering will any OBDII to usb cable work with the software or is it a different proprietary connector?


Thanks again.

Click to expand...

Not sure about the cable, believe they're fairly standard.
The drivers file is likely for your computer OS, may not be necessary nor specific (a driver update should suffice).
Checked the Device Manager tool for a USB device that wasn't happy and updated the drivers for it by pointing to the c:\vagtacho\drivers directory.
Ran the vagtacho software and it all worked.