DanG144
Top Post Dawg
What is the "VP"?dukku said:
Injection pump
- Thread starter Drivbiwire
- Start date
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
VE pin out
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2337955&postcount=29
Pin out for a VE style rotary injection pump.
Is this what you want?
Dan
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2337955&postcount=29
Pin out for a VE style rotary injection pump.
Is this what you want?
Dan
That was it !
I was interested in this for a friend who was curious t do some experiments on the fuel temperature sensor (like tuningboxes do).
So the brown-blue and yellow-blue are the fuel temp sensor leads.He wants to put a resistor to send altered information to the ecu.
I was interested in this for a friend who was curious t do some experiments on the fuel temperature sensor (like tuningboxes do).
So the brown-blue and yellow-blue are the fuel temp sensor leads.He wants to put a resistor to send altered information to the ecu.
ninedee_golf_tdi
Vendor
I have a pump on an alh that barely draws fuel (yes, it's primed, yes, drawing from separate container) and obviously barely sends fuel to the injectors. No obvious fuel leaks. Is it salvageable ? Thanks.
Losha
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2005
- Location
- Sioux Falls, SD
- TDI
- 06 Jetta TDI DSG, 2001 Golf TDI, Audi S6, A8, Toureg
Sounds like what my does right now.ninedee_golf_tdi said:
Is the car manual? ifso try push start it by towing it in second or third gear and get rpms over 2k and see if it woul fire up.TaylorM
Well-known member
YAAAAY a week later and finally fixed!! Ends up it was a whole mess of problems. For one i had the timing belt changed and water pump replaced by my normal mechanic who claimed he knew how to work on volkswagons, bad decision. Maybe regular volkswagons,but obviously not a TDI. The diesel mechanic i took it to said the belt tensioner was not replaced and put back on correctly. The belt became rounded off from being loose and being dragged across the pullies which caused it to eventually jump a tooth and cause the IP to stop working. This was all well and good, problem solved, after a new belt, tensioner and re timed, still no start, ***!! ok back to the drawing board. After another whole day of diagnosis and still no vag-com codes being thrown my mechanic decided to go over the whole electrical system, he found it odd that my battery kept dying. He "thinks" it was a short in the stereo system due to my dumb@$$ installing my stereo myself, he said he fixed some wires and it worked after that, he said the problem with the power caused the ECU to malfunction which caused the car not to start, since the engine turned but there just was no start it had everyone stummped. Has anyone heard of that before?? A stereo system messing with the ECU???? I didnt think that was possible. So now its "fixed" it runs and is all well and good..........i can only hope it truly is fixed.
TaylorM
Well-known member
i think so, i get the car back tomorrow so ill see. My mechanic said he checked the compression and he said nothing seems to be wrong with the valves. So im praying to god the timing belt issue didn't cause any damage. I trust his advice, he is the one who talked me into buying a TDI, hes a close friend of mine and he seems to know what hes doing. He has been working on TDI's and diesels for years so im pretty confident, but you never know. If all else fails, ill be off to wild rose.....
jasonTDI
TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
You had the K line plugged in plus something else. YES the ECU monitors the radio, part of the anti-theft system. Actully it's the immobilizer system. It runs for a second, dies, key light flashes on the dash....repeat...
TaylorM
Well-known member
well thats the thing it didnt die and the key light never flashed. I actually got no warning lights on the dash and my power still worked in the car. The vag-com showed no codes or anything. What is the K-line??
Nutsnbolts
Vendor , w/Business number
It's also possible that the power interruption is due to a faulty relay 109- a common problem on the early A4s.
-Rich
-Rich
TaylorM
Well-known member
would a 2001 golf tdi be an early a4?
Nutsnbolts
Vendor , w/Business number
It is an A4, but not considered and early one. Early would be 1999.5 and early (built pre-May) 2000. There were several running changes to these cars during these years. In fact, many things about the '01 electricals are different from the previous model years, like going to more advanced ECM and ABS boards.
Based on your other post about blowing immobilizer fuses, I don't think we have enough info yet to nail down a cause. The radio should be suspect as many here have suggested.
Let us know what happens with this...
-Rich
Based on your other post about blowing immobilizer fuses, I don't think we have enough info yet to nail down a cause. The radio should be suspect as many here have suggested.
Let us know what happens with this...
-Rich
rdkern
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 21, 2004
- Location
- Humboldt Co CA
- TDI
- Passat 1997 silver (sold after 11 years), Jetta 2000 atlantic blue
kline issueTaylorM said:
grizzlydiesel
Veteran Member
Drivbiwire.... youre my hero. I am familiar with the DB2 rotary pump on my 6.2L diesel, and could not for the life of me figure out why our ALH engines, with rotary pumps, needed a chip or a tune for fuel delivery. This was the most in depth, and actually helpful article i have read on the operation of the fuel delivery system of the ALH TDi engine. Thanks so much for the time and effort.
sb10
Active member
My car has not started since before Christmas, I have always felt it was the IP. I tried to start it for a LONG time, while there was no fuel in the line. I have replaced the seal from dieselgeek and now the fuel holds, but it will not start. I finally pulled the top 2 seals to check the plunger and although it seemed fine...there were a fair amount of metal shavings that the magnet had grabbed. This leads me to believe my pump is DOA...I'm looking for a second opinion. Anyone please.
Thanks,
scott
Thanks,
scott
Last edited:
Losha
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2005
- Location
- Sioux Falls, SD
- TDI
- 06 Jetta TDI DSG, 2001 Golf TDI, Audi S6, A8, Toureg
Can you post some pics of pump and metal shavings? also what exact seals you replaced? was it just head seal or completely resealed?sb10 said:
sb10
Active member
Can you post some pics of pump and metal shavings? also what exact seals you replaced? was it just head seal or completely resealed?
I'm sorry, but in our exuberance to check out the shavings...we removed them. As for the seals...first the o-ring seal that fails, then the top seal that exposes the g81 and then the next level that exposes the the delivery plunger. We have not replaced the last 2 seals as the shavings lead us to feel it's toast. The shavings were small but metal, one was the size of a small pin-head. Thanks,
scott
I'm sorry, but in our exuberance to check out the shavings...we removed them. As for the seals...first the o-ring seal that fails, then the top seal that exposes the g81 and then the next level that exposes the the delivery plunger. We have not replaced the last 2 seals as the shavings lead us to feel it's toast. The shavings were small but metal, one was the size of a small pin-head. Thanks,
scott
I just thought id add this........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYttzGdKgM0
http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump8.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6j0vrfaXPmw&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSIGez-EX2k&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grMP5cRC8rg&feature=related
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~blanchar/res/Atomization.pdf
http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump8.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6j0vrfaXPmw&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSIGez-EX2k&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grMP5cRC8rg&feature=related
http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~blanchar/res/Atomization.pdf
Last edited:
B52guy
Veteran Member
TDIRookie said:
I have looked around this site trying to locate that manual with out success. Do you have a more specific link, or know of some place that I could find it.
gjlove
Veteran Member
No vacuum from Injector Pump
I have a 2001 Golf with 179,000 miles on it. Recently had a problem with hard starting even in warm (50's) weather. Finally it would not start and the immobilizer light would light up. Took it to VW dealer who reprogrammed the keys and the car started and ran fine for about 500 miles.
Now the car will not start. There is no fuel in the clear line after the fuel filter. I replace the fuel filter with no luck. I disconnected the fuel line at the Injector pump and can draw fuel with a vacuum pump. However, when I reconnect the line to the injector pump and crank the engine there is no fuel in the clear line. If I connect a vacuum guage to the inlet on the Injector pump, there is no vacuum developed on cranking. The Bently manual says to check to see if I can hear the fuel cutoff valve opening when I turn the key. I do hear a clicking sound when the key is turned on and turned off coming from the Injector Pump, so I believe the valve is working. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Do I need a new Injector Pump? The area under the Injector Pump also appears "wet" as if there may have been some fuel leaking at some time. Never noticed anything under the car (No bottom shield in place.)
I have a 2001 Golf with 179,000 miles on it. Recently had a problem with hard starting even in warm (50's) weather. Finally it would not start and the immobilizer light would light up. Took it to VW dealer who reprogrammed the keys and the car started and ran fine for about 500 miles.
Now the car will not start. There is no fuel in the clear line after the fuel filter. I replace the fuel filter with no luck. I disconnected the fuel line at the Injector pump and can draw fuel with a vacuum pump. However, when I reconnect the line to the injector pump and crank the engine there is no fuel in the clear line. If I connect a vacuum guage to the inlet on the Injector pump, there is no vacuum developed on cranking. The Bently manual says to check to see if I can hear the fuel cutoff valve opening when I turn the key. I do hear a clicking sound when the key is turned on and turned off coming from the Injector Pump, so I believe the valve is working. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Do I need a new Injector Pump? The area under the Injector Pump also appears "wet" as if there may have been some fuel leaking at some time. Never noticed anything under the car (No bottom shield in place.)
Nutsnbolts
Vendor , w/Business number
It is possible that the seals on your pump are leaking, but getting it running first would be more helpful to that diagnosis. Here's where to go next: remove the return line from the injection pump (this line goes back to the "T" on the top of the fuel filter). Plug the line with something so that it cannot draw air. Then connect your vacuum pump to the return line outlet on the injection pump and draw a vacuum. Eventually, you should see fuel coming out of the injection pump, and at that point, the tranfer pump should be primed and ready to go. Reconnect everything and give it a shot. While you are drawing the vacuum to prime the pump, check the supply side (clear) line for fuel and air. It is possible that the o-rings on the "T" are allowing too much air into the system and the low pressure transfer pump is losing its prime.
-Rich
-Rich
l_c
Veteran Member
Greg, during that air purge / bleed, you'll also need to crack some of the injector pipe nuts loose slightly, to let air escape from there until fuel seeps out while cranking.
Larry.
Larry.
chemglider
Member
Injector Pump Not Pulling Fuel From Tank
I am a high school science teacher and a backyard mechanic with decent mechanical skills. As a summer project, I recently purchased a 1981 vw gas pickup that was in the process of being converted to a turbo diesel. I purchased the 1977-1984 Bentley diesel service manual. I am not getting fuel to the Injection Pump. I used a primer bulb to pump the fuel to the filter and past then clamp the hose to maintain pressure. (I placed a piece of clear hose in the fuel line to let me know if the fuel is in the line). When I hook the fuel line to the IP, the fuel seems to run back to the tank. When I crank the engine, the IP does not draw the fuel. I read this thread and could not find a solution. Any suggestions are truly appreciated.
I am a high school science teacher and a backyard mechanic with decent mechanical skills. As a summer project, I recently purchased a 1981 vw gas pickup that was in the process of being converted to a turbo diesel. I purchased the 1977-1984 Bentley diesel service manual. I am not getting fuel to the Injection Pump. I used a primer bulb to pump the fuel to the filter and past then clamp the hose to maintain pressure. (I placed a piece of clear hose in the fuel line to let me know if the fuel is in the line). When I hook the fuel line to the IP, the fuel seems to run back to the tank. When I crank the engine, the IP does not draw the fuel. I read this thread and could not find a solution. Any suggestions are truly appreciated.
aNUT
Vendor , w/Business number
What has been done to the original gasoline fuel sender and lift pump? I haven't ever gotten intimate with an old gasser. (unless you count my mower) That vintage rabbit diesel had a water separater post sender, but you don't need that if you run a newer filter with a water separator...like one off a 96-2005/6 Golf/Jetta/Beetle/Passat.
Maybe there is a gas lift pump that's in the way, broken, or not getting power. That should be removed. It's not really designed to move the amount of fuel required for a fuel cooled and lubricated pump. (~20gph at cruising speed)
You can always run the feed and return line into a jar (or other suitable vessel) of diesel to see if your results differ. You could try to prime with vacuum pump.(more effective than a bulb) Perhaps the low pressure lift pump, integral with your IP, may have stuck vanes (from sitting around for the last umpteen years) and is non functional.
I encourage you to start your own thread for this project; as you'll probably have more questions, and it will be more visible, pertinent, and searchable if you post here.
Welcome aboard, and happy wrenching.
Maybe there is a gas lift pump that's in the way, broken, or not getting power. That should be removed. It's not really designed to move the amount of fuel required for a fuel cooled and lubricated pump. (~20gph at cruising speed)
You can always run the feed and return line into a jar (or other suitable vessel) of diesel to see if your results differ. You could try to prime with vacuum pump.(more effective than a bulb) Perhaps the low pressure lift pump, integral with your IP, may have stuck vanes (from sitting around for the last umpteen years) and is non functional.
I encourage you to start your own thread for this project; as you'll probably have more questions, and it will be more visible, pertinent, and searchable if you post here.
Welcome aboard, and happy wrenching.
chemglider said:
chemglider
Member
I bypassed the electric fuel pump. I'll try the isolated fuel system (jar) idea. I'll also start a new thread for this project. Thanks for the reply.
Dieselson
Well-known member
Is the fuel cut off solenoid being energized and opening up to permit fuel to the pump?
On my Bosch pump, the fuel cut off solenoid also acts as a check valve to prevent the fuel from running back to the pump.
On my Bosch pump, the fuel cut off solenoid also acts as a check valve to prevent the fuel from running back to the pump.
chemglider
Member
I hear a click sound so I assume the fuel cutoff solenoid is operating. I have two other injection pumps I received when I purchased the truck. I was told there is a difference for injection pumps used for turbos. What is the difference? The other pumps I have look like the one that is in the truck.
aNUT
Vendor , w/Business number
The turbo pump has a diaphragm valve on top. It's attached to a pressure line from the intake. Basically, pressure on that guy moves stuff in the linkage on the pump and it injects more fuel under boost.chemglider said: