Rear Shock Assembly

I'm attempting to do my own suspension (shocks/struts, springs). I've done a lot of research and youtube watching and it seems pretty straight forward. I've gotten (I think) all the parts I need: be it bolts, mounts, bushings, etc from ECS tuning (part #ES#2631491).

I decided to do this myself when a VW shop (not a dealer) quoted me $625 to install everything I already have (parts wise).

So today I prepped the rear shocks...which is all I can do since I don't have the springs yet.

I want some folks on here to QC me since I'm a rookie. Is there an easier way to get the nut on top to hold it onto the shock mount? I held the center with adj wrench and turned nut with wrench...seeing guys on youtube I saw some grabbing the shock piston (which didn't look like a good idea). I think I got it down all the way...it's touching the metal and there isn't any slop/movement of the mount on the shock.


So here was how I was doing this...think there has to be a better way...I have pass through sockets but they were too tall for me to get on the center post...



Pretty easy down to this point...but after that it wasn't easy to get wrench on the nut. At this point the mount moved around in the gap from nut to bottom.



Sure looks like it is seated to me. It doesn't move like it did before in the previous pic.



All set and ready to put in car; as far as I know lol

You need a "DEEP OFFSET WRENCH" to get at the nut properly. Check out the picture in this link: http://toolguyd.com/wrench-socket-special-features/

Will try to embed the picture here but not sure if it will work:

NarfBLAST said:

You need a "DEEP OFFSET WRENCH" to get at the nut properly. Check out the picture in this link: http://toolguyd.com/wrench-socket-special-features/

Will try to embed the picture here but not sure if it will work:

Click to expand...

Thanks! I may have to add to the toolbox...since I can use the excuse of I need to ensure it is fully seated...

Anybody think of other tools I'll need for this job? The ECS kit came with:

Schwaben Strut Nut Socket - 21mm
Schwaben Strut Nut Socket - 22mm
Schwaben steering knuckle spreader tool to aid in removing the strut from the steering knuckle

I'll add some deep offset wrenches to the list now. lol

Is the scope of this project expanding? You note having a strut spreader tool (not needed on the rears).

UhOh said:

Is the scope of this project expanding? You note having a strut spreader tool (not needed on the rears).

Click to expand...

I'm doing all four corners....may not have said that in OP

Your subject says "Rear Shock Assembly," just sayin'

Fronts are a LOT more involved.

I like, and have used, this reference:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/strut-and-shock-absorber-replacement-for-mk4-vw/

Sure there are other good ones out there.

Do you have the other tools that you will need for the front:

7mm alen wrench
13/16" spark plug socket
7/8" wrench
Spring compressor

UhOh said:

Your subject says "Rear Shock Assembly," just sayin'

Fronts are a LOT more involved.

I like, and have used, this reference:

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/strut-and-shock-absorber-replacement-for-mk4-vw/

Sure there are other good ones out there.

Click to expand...

Should have named it "rear shock assembly QC"...I did those as they are very easy (when compared to fronts)...just had time today to get the rears assembled.

Thanks for link. I think I already found this...I've read so much the last two days they are all blending together!

NarfBLAST said:

Do you have the other tools that you will need for the front:

7mm alen wrench
13/16" spark plug socket
7/8" wrench
Spring compressor

Click to expand...

I have all those yep!

ratkc135 said:

Should have named it "rear shock assembly QC"...I did those as they are very easy (when compared to fronts)...just had time today to get the rears assembled.
Thanks for link. I think I already found this...I've read so much the last two days they are all blending together!

Click to expand...

Correction: no I hadn't seen this one! Thanks again! Had I seen this I would have known about the deep offset wrench!

I favor an air impact wrench. An electrical one would work also.

Sears/Craftsman also has a line of "pass thru" sockets that I have found to be useful.

For the fronts, (in a pinch) I've used a deep socket held with vice grips and an allen wrench thru it.

Tdijarhead said:

I favor an air impact wrench. An electrical one would work also.

Click to expand...

I'm set there too (air and electric)! I've had one for various other projects.

I use air impact but many years ago, on an A1 diesel, before I owned a compressor, I used a deep impact socket on a hand "strike to turn" impact tool. It worked, but took a while.

Air impact has always worked. The new lower cost, but higher torque electric impacts might be just fine.

The impact tool I used as a Sears Craftsman one, Description Item # 00947641000P Model # 47641. If I was doing it today, I would rechannel the $25 to a electric impact tool, perhaps battery operated for roadside repairs (ugh).

The only other caution I have is that I find myself using a torch quite often on suspension jobs. Having a friend with small tanks in a bind would be helpful. I actually keep my older small tanks just for a situation like that. But this is a different tool discussion.

One other thing, the reference you cited for strut replacements says that an alignment is needed after strut replacement. That was certainly true on my A1 and A2 VW diesels, but not on my A4. In fact the only thing that is readily adjustable is the toe, which can be done with string or a track gauge.

In older struts there were eccentric bolts or slotted holes to adjust the camber. That adjustment was eliminated on the A4. Generally I measure everything before with a caliper, and then adjust tierods and stuff to be the same. In all the years I have done this, only once have I had to adjust the toe on an A4, and that was with a steering rack job, where measurement was not possible.

Others may have had different experiences, but that is mine.

A final comment, I would get two sets of spring compressors if you plan on using them. Three is better than two, and I always try to use three. While I have two sets, you can just "rent" two from Autozone or where ever. Cheap insurance should you need it.

You are correct. Except, usually one is popping loose the ball joint- you can mark things to line back up, but there may be other stuff that's being replaced that would then beg for an alignment*. Alignments are pretty cheap: and, getting an alignment allows you to have another set of eyes look at your work.

* I've been doing full suspension refreshes, ball joints, tire rod ends and LCA bushings with struts and springs and associated bushings. At a minimum the steering wheel is going to end up being out of whack (not straight).

A track gauge might be less than an alignment. Here alignments run about $99.

If you have a track gauge and a helper, you can set the wheels straight after driving on a level surface, and then just twist things into place so that the steering wheel is straight. And the track gauge remains set to zero.

No need to lift the car.

Also, one can verify camber with a level and shims, and a calculator. But it is not readily adjustable. However if it "looks" wrong, then I would check it.

Couple suggestions, from a safety perspective.
1. Consider having a shop assemble your struts.
2. Consider a torque wrench. All these components, including the one you asked about, have torque specs.
3. Consider a manual, which I'm assuming from your questions you don't have. The guide on myturbodiesel is excellent, but should complement a manual.

This job isn't too bad. Much more fun than the B5.5 that I did first. Good luck!

mgoff5000 said:

Couple suggestions, from a safety perspective.
1. Consider having a shop assemble your struts.
2. Consider a torque wrench. All these components, including the one you asked about, have torque specs.
3. Consider a manual, which I'm assuming from your questions you don't have. The guide on myturbodiesel is excellent, but should complement a manual.

This job isn't too bad. Much more fun than the B5.5 that I did first. Good luck!

Click to expand...

I have torque wrenches...and I did think about having a shop assemble the struts...but then I got a spring compressor...and now I guess don't want to waste that $$...based on an earlier post I'm debating getting a second set so they can be at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock....a safety buffer.

You're right I should find a manual...I have manuals for my other vehicles...just haven't gotten around to finding one for the 02.