Replacing Engine

thedude78 · Mar 13, 2017

I found a 2001 Jetta 5spd 1.9 with 190,000 miles and the man told me that the timing belt was installed incorrectly and messed the engine up. How hard is it to replace these engines? He is asking $650 for it so I’m not sure it’s worth messing with. Is that a pretty good deal?

Nevada_TDI · Mar 13, 2017

For me personally, I would buy the car. You already have another 2001 that you may need parts for. If you do the repair work yourself you could fix the broken one and then sell for a profit; which state is the car from originally?

thedude78 · Mar 13, 2017

Originally from Texas. I don't have a 2001 yet.....(guess I should take that off of my profile) I wasn't sure if it would be more pain than what it worth buying the car and putting a good engine in.

That's the car in my profile picture (couldn't figure out how to post in my replay)

dweisel · Mar 13, 2017

thedude78 said:
Originally from Texas. I don't have a 2001 yet.....(guess I should take that off of my profile) I wasn't sure if it would be more pain than what it worth buying the car and putting a good engine in.

That's the car in my profile picture (couldn't figure out how to post in my replay)

Well worth the money even if you just part it out.

dweisel

Mavrick · Mar 13, 2017

If the body is nice.. it's a fair deal. If you do the work, you can get a good engine in the $500-$1000 range.

AndyBees · Mar 13, 2017

Agree ...... if the body is decent, good deal. At 190k miles, the tranny should be fine as well as wheel bearings, front suspension, etc. My 2000 Jetta has 360k miles on it. I did a front-end refresh at 271k miles needlessly.

Changing the engine is not exactly easy, but if you've changed one in any car or helped, you have a general idea of what to expect.

thedude78 · Mar 13, 2017

I've helped change a couple out before. Didn't know if there was anything special with these. So I talked with the owner a little more today and found out the reason it isn't running. They had the timing belt replaced by a booger eating moron and he didn't time it right. The body is in great shape, no dents or rust.

Tdijarhead · Mar 13, 2017

Those of us up north here drool over a clean southern rust free car like that. You can fix just about anything on a car but once rust starts it's hard to stop.

turbocharged798 · Mar 13, 2017

Yep, all the MK4 are starting to rust out at the rockers, fenders, and hoods around here. Like every one.

If its just slipped timing, you should be able to fix the car with a simple head R&R.

UhOh · Mar 14, 2017

I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

Pull the head off and check for overall damage: of course, start with the easiest- pop off the valve cover- if cam and lifters are good then you'll have hit the jackpot! If it's severe then you have the decision of dropping in whatever is necessary (new parts or a "new" engine) or of just parting it out*. Seems that it would be reasonably easy to recoup your $650 parting it out: though there's always one's labor to consider- here it gets a bit sticker to bean-count on

* Or sell the body to some poor underprivileged northeastern person in need of a new body to drop their engine into

thedude78 · Mar 14, 2017

I'm going to pick it up on Thursday and go from there. I was reading up on the timing belt and how to set the timing correctly. What are your suggestions for a timing tool kit?

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kcunniff · Mar 14, 2017

I don't think there is any downside to that purchase, well done.

For timing belt kits and associated required tools, go to idparts.com.

maxmoo · Mar 15, 2017

Not trying to be a Debbie-downer, but you should make sure that you do did not have valves contacting pistons, which you probably did.

Once the head is removed look for visual signs that the valves contacted the pistons and piston projection should be carefully measured.

The cylinder head should be sent to someone familiar with tdi head rebuilding ,like Frank06.

Otherwise, due to damaged valves, you will most likely end up with a catastrophic engine falure within a couple thousand miles.

Nice find otherwise and worth fixing properly!

MarsBar · Mar 15, 2017

Just to put a little perspective out there: in California, that would be a $3,500 car when it's put right. No way you can lose on this deal.

BobnOH · Mar 15, 2017

thedude78 said:
I've helped change a couple out before. Didn't know if there was anything special with these. So I talked with the owner a little more today and found out the reason it isn't running. They had the timing belt replaced by a booger eating moron and he didn't time it right. The body is in great shape, no dents or rust.

Ask if the car was ever started after jefro effd up the belt job. If so, what happened?

ketchupshirt88 · Mar 15, 2017

i agree with maxmoo on this.

it is very likely that a valve to piston make-out session occurred.

you should pull the valve cover and look very carefully at the lifters for cracks. if you arent sure, pull cam and look even closer... still not sure, pull the head and look for contact marks on pistons.

personally (if i didnt hate working on the mk4's) i would buy it, pull the head, install rebuilt or good low miles head... then install the t-belt kit and you are golden. thats exactly what i did with the only mk4 i still have left in my stable.

Ol'Rattler · Mar 15, 2017

thedude78 said:
I've helped change a couple out before. Didn't know if there was anything special with these. So I talked with the owner a little more today and found out the reason it isn't running. They had the timing belt replaced by a booger eating moron and he didn't time it right. The body is in great shape, no dents or rust.

The general public gives these cars a bad rap because a lot of people don't have a clue how to work on them.

I would be inclined th pull the head, check the piston protrusion and rebuild the head.

The trouble with an engine with no history is there might be a lot of things that need replaced.

thedude78 · Mar 20, 2017

Well....I got her home the other day and started ripping her apart. So I took the EGR off and it looked like every other clogged up intake so I got on line and ordered a EGR and cooler delete. I haven't gotten the head off yet (a little scared of what I might find) but got the cam off and the lifters had spider cracks in them. I'll post some pics when I get the head off.

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gone postal · Mar 21, 2017

Before condemning the engine and looking for a new one, I'd consider an "in-frame" rebuild. You can have the head redone and there's plenty of room to remove the oil pan, so you can pull the rods, pistons, etc out of the top. I did this on a car that the crank and bearings still looked great. This is of course assuming the cylinder walls look good. Maybe run a ball hone though it before putting it all back together, but you could come out of this without a lot of money invested.

UhOh · Mar 21, 2017

One ought to inspect piston heights to ensure no bent rods (biggest concern).

thedude78 · Mar 23, 2017

Well boys, there she is......I think I've lucked out on this one. I don't see any damage to any of the pistons and the head looks pretty good. It's still going to take a trip to see franko6.

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dubStrom · Mar 23, 2017

Lucky, lucky, lucky. Certainly doesn't look catastrophic! and...seems nice shape, and nice color. I like the wheels too!

Congrats!

thedude78 · Mar 23, 2017

So, here is a crazy question. Is it worth sending the injectors to someone that can do the calibration on them while she's down? Who do you guys recommend for injector calibration?

IndigoBlueWagon · Mar 23, 2017

Send the injectors to Frank with the head. He can do calibration, and install new nozzles if you need them.

wonneber · Mar 23, 2017

thedude78 said:
So, here is a crazy question. Is it worth sending the injectors to someone that can do the calibration on them while she's down? Who do you guys recommend for injector calibration?

I was reading the injectors are tired after 150K miles.
They can inject to soon because they lost spring tension and can drip fuel in the cylinder.

thedude78 · Mar 26, 2017

So I started looking at the turbo tonight and noticed it had a little radial play. How much radial play is aloud with these turbos?

I think that I found the answer within this thread.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1915427&postcount=17

UhOh · Mar 26, 2017

0.5mm for radial. No movement for axial. That's what a top-end shop reported for on my daughter's wagon: had them check the turbo after the oil feed line ruptured).

As mentioned in that post by Drivbiwire, really should not feel anything for axial. And as noted, you're going to feel something radially because there's no oil pressure.

csstevej · Mar 27, 2017

Just for $hits and giggles still measure the piston height and make sure it corresponds to the thickness of the head gasket.....nice find though!

thedude78 · Mar 28, 2017

Spoke with franko6 today and got everything setup for him to work his magic on the head and injectors. He suggested to drop the oil pan just check everything out. I want to replace the oil pan. Should I get a steel or a hybrid oil pan?

IndigoBlueWagon · Mar 29, 2017

Why replace the pan?

Replacing Engine

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