02 TDI w/malone tune. dies under full boost (22PSI)

Gluckmysock said:

Thanks. Was considering the disc version, but for half the price, hard to go wrong with that.

Click to expand...

The electronic addition does gives you access to tech bulletins, current updates, campaign info and other resources

Ok Guys, I have been reading and searching so much my head hurts.

While I wait for my turbo and head, I need to prepare for reassembly.

Although the TB wasn't hurt, I want to replace it and the companion components. I have a buddy who has the tensioner and cam lock tools. Any tips or hazards to look for?

I'm also planning to replace the thermostat and oil filter. Which is pretty much a no-brainer. Suggestions on parts and filters?

Adding a boost gauge is priority 1. My engine has a EGR delete kit, which has a barb fitting already installed in the intake pipe that mounts to the intake manifold. Is this a good source for checking/monitoring my boost?

I'm also getting the bentley manual. So I can make sure and do this job, "By the book"

Thanks for your help.

The barbed fitting on the "race pipe" is a boost tap its a good place to hook up a boost gauge. I had a similar problem back when i was a newbie cyl #2 (i see a pattern forming...) chewed its piston rings and scored the cylinder which led to oversize pistons and machine work. re building the engine is pretty straight forward take your time use assembly lube follow torque specs and learn to love the bentley manual also get your hands on a VAG-COM from ross tech youll need that to set pump timing unless you wanna pay the stealer (dealer) to do it.

Im not an expert but i know enough about MK4 TDI's and the process your going through to be of some help so if you get stuck pm me because ive probably had the same issue somewhere along the line.

when i did my re-build for the engine internals i used genuine parts and OEM aftermarket parts. the only aftermarket non oem were: integrated engineering conn rods, arp head studs and techtonics tuning HD valve springs.

Bentley manual is on its way. I totally agree with OEM parts. That's my plan. I think the pain from the initial cost will fade, and then I will be thankful down the road. I have a good buddy who owns a 03 Jetta TDI, and also owns a VAG-COM, so I am covered there also. Thanks for your help. #feelingrelieved.

Found a smoking deal on VDO gauges. www.eGauges.com (hope that's allowed. if not? Mods, do what you do! )

150-1212 30 inHg/25 PSI Turbo - 2 1/16" - Vision Black 1 $46.98
350-1062 100 PSI Oil - Metric Kit - 2 1/16" - Vision Black 1 $54.32
332-103 8-16V Voltmeter - 2 1/16" - Vision Black 1 $26.58

Total is 127.88 with free shipping.

Moving on..

Gluckmysock said:

Bentley manual is on its way. I totally agree with OEM parts. That's my plan. I think the pain from the initial cost will fade, and then I will be thankful down the road. I have a good buddy who owns a 03 Jetta TDI, and also owns a VAG-COM, so I am covered there also. Thanks for your help. #feelingrelieved.

Click to expand...

Ha ha! Been there! After I'd gotten my first Golf TDI I was not happy with it at all. Lots of things needed repairing (but the engine was sound). After a lot of work, and some great parts, I wouldn't part with it. When you get these things back up to par and keep up with regular maintenance they're wonderful cars.

Got some questions for the experts. Due to the large volume of oil in all my intake piping, I decided to wash everything out with water and dawn. the parts are rubber, metal, or plastic. which, I don't think the wash hurt, however, it appears to me there are 2 sensors in the piping. what are their names and can I/did I harm them? BTW, I did also wash them in an environmentally safe parts cleaner. also, their appears to be a "Filter media" in the pancake tube. Is this reusable/cleanable, or do I need to replace it? Thanks

Yours is the first I have heard of any "filter media" in the pancake pipe; that makes me nervous, I wonder what the heck it is?

an old rag?

Finally figured out pics! If you look real close in the 2nd photo, you can see the concentric holes and what looks like poly fill. The 1st photo shows screws which would appear to me to allow disassembly, which I have not done, Gotta go to the garage to get my torx, But I plan to do just to make sure it is dry.

Thoughts?

That's not the correct lower pipe for your car. This one is: http://www.idparts.com/lower-intercooler-pancake-pipe-a4-alh-p-1278.html

Mystery solved. This is what's inside. Just looks like a baffle.

Parts, ready to go.

Good Luck!

I remember my 03' Wagon jumping the timing belt the previous owner told me that he replaced (did not!!!) and it dropped the valves, bent some rods. Lots of money later that was the best car I ever owned. Sounds like you have good mechanical abilities, you'll do just fine.

As far as the two sensors. I'd say MAP sensor & MAF sensor.

I have never seen one of those weird flat lower pipes.

TDI-JAY said:

Good Luck!

I remember my 03' Wagon jumping the timing belt the previous owner told me that he replaced (did not!!!) and it dropped the valves, bent some rods. Lots of money later that was the best car I ever owned. Sounds like you have good mechanical abilities, you'll do just fine.

As far as the two sensors. I'd say MAP sensor & MAF sensor.

I have never seen one of those weird flat lower pipes.

Click to expand...

Thanks.

I'm pretty sure the one is MAP in the intake. The other one I think is in the coolant hose. I didn't realize it while I was cleaning til after I gathered them all up to put in a bin. Didn't really look at it after that. Hopefully, fingers crossed, I didn't do damage to either one. We shall see. I have access to a HEX-CAN adapter and VCDS. So, i'll check the sensors to make sure they are good.

Since this all started from a blown turbo. I am still in need of one. I messaged the guy I bought the jetta from and he is having a VNT-17 Rebuilt at XSBoost.com. I'm gonna get that since my original is held up in customs??????

I got all 4 pistons installed. The old head gasket was 2 hole, I ordered both 2 and 3 cause I was not 100% sure on the piston protrusion. Since it was late last night when I finished, I wanted to double check when I was rested, so for all they cost $30.00 I ordered both. I did get some advice from a local guy who said I should just go ahead with the 3 hole, and since the VNT-17 will have more boost, the little bit of difference will be made up for in the extra boost. What do the experts say?

Your "local guy" is applying gasser thinking to a diesel engine, IMHO.

My vote: do your rebuild by the book. In this case, measure the piston protrusion carefully, and then put the exact right headgasket on.

This won't be the last time someone gives you "advice" BTW... the next time will be when you measure the cylinder wall clearances.

well, put a 2 hole head gasket on it, all 4 pistons were right at .039-.040. head is on, TB install is done, VC and oil pans are back on. Started the gauge install. got all 3 mounted in the dash face plate. still waiting on turbo. Maybe another day and a half of work til fire up.

IIRC, even though the difference in head gasket thicknesses is very small there is a tremendous difference in the final compression ratio. When the engine is not under full boost there is possibly and likely incomplete combustion occurring regardless of the size turbo being used.

Nevada_TDI said:

IIRC, even though the difference in head gasket thicknesses is very small there is a tremendous difference in the final compression ratio. When the engine is not under full boost there is possibly and likely incomplete combustion occurring regardless of the size turbo being used.

Click to expand...

I agree, that is why I stayed with the 2 hole.

Got my gauges wired up and installed.

Finally got the turbo installed. tried to start it and all it does is sputter. I have adjusted the timing multiple times. Flywheel is at TDC, camshaft is locked down with the metalnerd tool. IP is locked with a 15/64 drill bit. After every timing adjustment. I rotated the crank several times to make sure everything stayed put. I took a pic of the IP pulley. you can see where the bolts were initially and where they are now. I am going to try tomorrow putting the pump back to the original location.

Also, do you think someone could have "tweaked" the timing for the "Malone tune" and now its out of whack? If so, how can I fix it? I have a Vag-com. Thanks!

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/injection-quantity-adjustment-fuel-pump-hammer-mod/

likely need to adjust pump timing.

I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks.

Jetta is back up and running. Made several adjustments to the IP timing (advanced and retarded) to no avail. Crack the injector lines at the injectors and bleed some air. tightened them down and she finally fired up. Checked the IP timing and its advanced almost to the green line on the graph. I'm gonna run it for a few days and check it again. Turbo, vnt17, is making upwards of 25 PSI boost. It just pegs this under hard acceleration and fades off rather quickly. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I can adjust the actuator to stop if from going that high?

Thanks for all the help! I appreciate it!.

Update. After running for a few days, The boost was off the scale. My gauge only goes to 25 and it spiked well past that, 28-29. Which made me very nervous. I adjusted the actuator and got it to max out at 25. But in doing so, it takes 5 in Hg to get it to move, and that seems to have made it laggy. Can I adjust the factory stop and shorten my rod to get it to the range of open at 4 and stop at 18 in Hg?

I love how this thing pulls. And I don't want to grenade another turbo.

Thanks!

I had to much boost after I changed my actuator.
I lengthened it to lower the boost.
I went 1.5 turns on the thumb screw (or so, I forget) and it was much better.
I fidgeted with it a bit until it was OK.

I did a compression test 2 weekends ago and cracked the vacuum hose to the reserve tank. (not the tank)
Replaced it and the on going to the actuator (was leaking a bit) and still do not get full boost.
Barely gets 15 lb max (really pushing it) so I have some more checking to do.
I do have about 15in of vacuum in the system.

Keep in mind you're not going to make full compression for a while after a rebuild, so the response to the accelerator will be softer than when the engine is broken in. This is pretty noticeable, especially in the first couple thousand miles.

Well, it's not a track day car. So I can live with a soft pedal for a while. I love the car and just don't want to grenade another turbo.

On another note. My alt is steady at 14.6v. Regulator? I guess adding that gauge has made me a nervous nelly!

Maybe a quick voltage drop test.
With the car running, head lights & fan on.
From the negative post of the battery to the case of the alternator.
Then the positive post of the battery to the positive stud on the alternator.
I would not want to see more then a few tenths of a volt.