I have one in as well. I didn't do as good of a job at documenting the process as I should have but the major points are:
1) Replaces fuel level sender. You'll need a new 4 wire connector, 2 for the pump and 2 for the fuel level sender. Its underneath the back seat on the passenger side underneath the carpet cover (just pop the seat cover forward and pull back the carpet.
2) Before you put the pump/sender in wire up a relay to control the pump. You want to tie it to the fuel cutoff solenoid which opens for a few secs when the key is turned then shuts off, then runs continuously while the engine is on. When the key is turned off power to this solenoid goes away to cut the pump fuel supply. This will also shut off your in take pump.
3) Wire up a solenoid under the hood and secure it somewhere safe. The turn on trigger is from the cutoff solenoid, power and ground from the battery (on my hookup at least) and the switched power runs back either under the car or through some sort of hose conduit (rubber tubing works) or through firewall grommit to the the cabin, under the side door to the top of the fuel tank (the way I have it set up). Use good gauged wire and use some sort of wire loom or covering to keep it safe from rubbing off insulation while pulling the wire and causing short-circuits.
4) Try to do this when the tank is not full and you'll make less of a mess. Prepare to pull out something that's been soaking in diesel fuel. Rubber gloves and rags, plastic, etc are a big help to keep fuel off the seats, carpet, etc. Disconnect the fuel lines by pressing the ring on the base and pull them up. Unplug the two wire fuel sender plug.
5) The ring keeping the old sender on needs either a VW special tool to take it off (shown in the Bentley) or you can use special tool VAG 1337 (rubber mallet) and a large flat head screwdriver wrapped in cloth to break it loose. Put the blade against a raised portion on the cover ring and tap it to get it to rotate counterclockwise. Once its loose you should be able to unscrew it by hand
4) Lift out the sender, it will drip fuel. Put it in a small bucket or something. Do not get any dirt into the fuel tank. Do not drop the rubber ring around the fuel level sender into the fuel tank. Be mindful of the float on the sender. You will have to rotate the sender as you pull it out of the tank.
5) Installation is reverse of removal. I would suggest transferring the fuel level sender wires to the new pump (inner two wires in the 4 wire harness, double check int he bently if you have one) and testing that the wires work by raising and lowering the float. If that's ok drop the pump/sender in, beind mindful of the float. Make sure the fuel level on the gauge looks right and make sure the float is flat and level. Gauge behavior may change slightly from its old travel path. It shouldn't change much but it may change slightly. Be mindful also of the rubber ring around the top of the tank. Make sure everything seals properly.
6) Put the ring back on. Tap it tight a couple of times.
7) Plug in the fuel lines and complete the harness with the power and ground wires for the pump if you have not already done so. I used a chassis ground inside the the door wiring tunnel. Its the two outer wires. double check the pin #s with the bently (I don't have one handy right now).
8) If everything works the fuel level will be correct and when you turn the key to the ON (but not start) you should be able to hear the pump run for a few seconds then turn off. It should then run when you start the car and turn off when you turn the car off.
9) Make sure the Fuel Filter T doesn't leak. My solution was just to bypass it but I don't live in a super cold climate. My pump feeds my inline fuel cooler in the stock SMIC position which then feeds the fuel filter and then to the pump. The return line goes right back to the tank bypassing the T. I just put two rubber caps on the T. I have no bubbles in my line so everything looks good. My fuel pump midseal used to leak/bubble a bit so i ordered a new seal kit but once I retorqued my bolts on the IQ adjuster it stopped leaking. I need to check it again, I may change it anyway. As everyone gets ULSD keep an eye on those seals.
I'll try to take and post pics.
So far as results:
None if you are light on mods.
If you have heavy fuel mods (11mm or 12mm pump and/or big injectors) then you'll need this. You wont gain much peak HP but you won't drop off in HP above 4K RPM. My car pulls hard all the way to fuel cut at 5K RPM.
