MOGolf
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2001
- Location
- underneath something
- TDI
- 2001 Golf GLS TDI Reflex silver, rough road suspension and steel skid plate, 2004 Passat Variant, Candy White, rough road suspension and geared balanced shaft module, and much, much more. 2016 LR RR HSE TD6, 2019 Jaguar I-PACE
This is a description of how to replace the crankshaft seal on an ALH engine.
The tools used are the "official" VW tools. The crankshaft holder is "3415", the seal puller is "3203" and the seal installer is "3265". The seal installer for the "new" style PTFE seal is "T10053", but it is not pictured here.
(I apologize for the fuzziness of some pictures. It's hard to tell if the picture is fuzzy until download to the PC long after the procedure was done. Plus the picture server resizes and aggravates the fuzzy appearance.)
This is the crankshaft holder. It is just over 27 inches long. It has two screws that screw into damper bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley.
Here's the business end of it.
Here it is attached to a car.
And to put it into scale with the car...
We had the luxury of having the car up on a lift. The job is a little more difficult if the car is only on stands.
The procedure:
Remove what you have to in order to get access to the crank pulley. (Serpentine belt, damper, lower belt shield). If you're doing a timing belt replacement, that is a good time to do this. If you don't have the luxury of a lift, do all of this before releasing tension on the timing belt or removing the camshaft pulley.
Attach the crankshaft holder as shown. Using a 12 point 19mm socket and breaker bar (at least 3/4 inch drive recommended), counter hold the crankshaft with the holder and loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. It is on tight. Very tight, unless you're a weightlifter.
If you're doing this without the aid of a lift, I suggest finding TDC first, then turning the crankshaft about 45 degrees off of TDC (in either direction), attaching the holder, loosen the bolt but don't remove, then turn the engine back to TDC.
At this point you can lock the camshaft at TDC for cylinder #1, release tension on the belt, and remove the camshaft pulley (to be reinstalled later).
Once the tension is off of the belt, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley. You now have access to the seal.
When removing the seal it is important to not scratch the crankshaft. Any scratch where the seal is located will just cause the replacement to leak and it's expensive to replace a crankshaft.
The VW tool for removal of the seal looks like this.
The end of it (away from the end with the "box" shape) screws into the seal. You loosen the thumb screw and back out the center part of the tool (with the "box" shape) a few turns and retighten the thumb screw. Then screw the tool into the seal using a 1/2 inch ratchet in the "box". Once it doesn't go in any more, loosen the thumb screw and turn the center part in a tightening direction while holding the outer part of the tool. This will cause the center part to push against the crankshaft end while the outer part pulls the seal out of the flange.
Here it is on the car.
Once you have the old seal out, you have to put a new one in. Be careful when installing the new seal. Do not nick it on the end of the crankshaft, nor the corners of the D shape of the end of the crankshaft. It can be pushed into place using installer tool "3265".
The installer tool looks like this.
Insert the old crankshaft pulley bolt through the hole in the installer. Tightening it into the end of the crankshaft will push the installer evenly against the seal to install it into the flange. (Sorry, didn't take a picture.) Once the seal is seated, remove the bolt and installer tool.
Use a new bolt, reinstall the pulley and timing belt. Install the pulley bolt. If the car is up on stands, make it hand tight. Verify crankshaft is at TDC, and (re)install the timing belt (see the timing belt replacement procedure in the articles for all the details). If the car is on a lift you can proceed with tightening the crankshaft bolt before finishing the (re)installation of the belt.
If the car is up on stands, once you have the timing belt (re)installed, you can safely turn the engine off of TDC by about 45 degrees and reinstall the crank holder. With the crank holder installed for counterholding, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 88 ft-lbs (120 Nm), then tighten another 90 degrees. This is very tight. It is a large, fine thread bolt so don't be surprised at the effort it takes.
Finally, reinstall other removed parts to complete the job.
One other thing, the approximate prices of the tools (subject to change without notice and varies with source and shipping):
Seal installer: $20
Crankshaft holder: $90 /images/graemlins/frown.gif
Seal remover: $145 /images/graemlins/eek.gif
The tools used are the "official" VW tools. The crankshaft holder is "3415", the seal puller is "3203" and the seal installer is "3265". The seal installer for the "new" style PTFE seal is "T10053", but it is not pictured here.
(I apologize for the fuzziness of some pictures. It's hard to tell if the picture is fuzzy until download to the PC long after the procedure was done. Plus the picture server resizes and aggravates the fuzzy appearance.)
This is the crankshaft holder. It is just over 27 inches long. It has two screws that screw into damper bolt holes on the crankshaft pulley.
Here's the business end of it.
Here it is attached to a car.
And to put it into scale with the car...
We had the luxury of having the car up on a lift. The job is a little more difficult if the car is only on stands.
The procedure:
Remove what you have to in order to get access to the crank pulley. (Serpentine belt, damper, lower belt shield). If you're doing a timing belt replacement, that is a good time to do this. If you don't have the luxury of a lift, do all of this before releasing tension on the timing belt or removing the camshaft pulley.
Attach the crankshaft holder as shown. Using a 12 point 19mm socket and breaker bar (at least 3/4 inch drive recommended), counter hold the crankshaft with the holder and loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. It is on tight. Very tight, unless you're a weightlifter.
If you're doing this without the aid of a lift, I suggest finding TDC first, then turning the crankshaft about 45 degrees off of TDC (in either direction), attaching the holder, loosen the bolt but don't remove, then turn the engine back to TDC.
At this point you can lock the camshaft at TDC for cylinder #1, release tension on the belt, and remove the camshaft pulley (to be reinstalled later).
Once the tension is off of the belt, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley. You now have access to the seal.
When removing the seal it is important to not scratch the crankshaft. Any scratch where the seal is located will just cause the replacement to leak and it's expensive to replace a crankshaft.
The VW tool for removal of the seal looks like this.
The end of it (away from the end with the "box" shape) screws into the seal. You loosen the thumb screw and back out the center part of the tool (with the "box" shape) a few turns and retighten the thumb screw. Then screw the tool into the seal using a 1/2 inch ratchet in the "box". Once it doesn't go in any more, loosen the thumb screw and turn the center part in a tightening direction while holding the outer part of the tool. This will cause the center part to push against the crankshaft end while the outer part pulls the seal out of the flange.
Here it is on the car.
Once you have the old seal out, you have to put a new one in. Be careful when installing the new seal. Do not nick it on the end of the crankshaft, nor the corners of the D shape of the end of the crankshaft. It can be pushed into place using installer tool "3265".
The installer tool looks like this.
Insert the old crankshaft pulley bolt through the hole in the installer. Tightening it into the end of the crankshaft will push the installer evenly against the seal to install it into the flange. (Sorry, didn't take a picture.) Once the seal is seated, remove the bolt and installer tool.
Use a new bolt, reinstall the pulley and timing belt. Install the pulley bolt. If the car is up on stands, make it hand tight. Verify crankshaft is at TDC, and (re)install the timing belt (see the timing belt replacement procedure in the articles for all the details). If the car is on a lift you can proceed with tightening the crankshaft bolt before finishing the (re)installation of the belt.
If the car is up on stands, once you have the timing belt (re)installed, you can safely turn the engine off of TDC by about 45 degrees and reinstall the crank holder. With the crank holder installed for counterholding, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 88 ft-lbs (120 Nm), then tighten another 90 degrees. This is very tight. It is a large, fine thread bolt so don't be surprised at the effort it takes.
Finally, reinstall other removed parts to complete the job.
One other thing, the approximate prices of the tools (subject to change without notice and varies with source and shipping):
Seal installer: $20
Crankshaft holder: $90 /images/graemlins/frown.gif
Seal remover: $145 /images/graemlins/eek.gif