Tdi ALH pump timing issues

So, after a long time of looking I have resorted to pleading for help. I acquired a early 99 Jetta Tdi. Injection pump leaked. I took it out, replaced the seals, reinstalled and it wouldn’t start. By the look of the pump it seemed to have been tampered with previously. I had done the standard timing procedure, tdc on the flywheel, locked cam with lobes up on cylinder one, pinned pump, and no success. I examined the pump and came to the conclusion that the pump was injecting on the pistons way down. So, the pulley on the pump shaft had been moved. I checked the plunger shaft with a dial indicator, oriented the pump to inject on cylinder one compression stroke, reinstalled pulley, installed pump, set the timing pulley to neutral on the adjustment bolts, and BOOM! Engine started right up.
However...
The car smokes white diesel like crazy. The QA is full right, for full injection, thanks hammermod , and will not start or run for that matter, if I move it toward the belt side of the pump.
I have VCDS lite and when in basic settings and pull up the timing graph, I select the proper engine, my graphing bounces between 38 and 255 on my timing. It bounces between on the graph, and off the graph.
So, why won’t my car run when I lean it out? It’s obviously getting too much fuel due to the smoke. Because I can’t read the graph, I can’t really adjust the timing pulley.
Also, why can’t I read it on the graph? I have tried so many things to get it to read and I just can’t get it to do so.
I have tried advancing and retarding the timing pulley and QA via hammer mod in hopes it might pick up on my computer. The engine either starts after 15 seconds of cranking, or 2 seconds, and when I adjust the QA while running, the engine just dies.
I am at the end of my rope here. I found a thread where the guy had all the same problems but was fixed by plugging in his commencement valve and hammer mod. Mine is plugged in and my hammer mod does diddly.
Any tips? Ideas?

Other than a new pump, slipping the pulley a couple notches on the belt might help.
I had a black smoke issue that was solved that way. Poor timing how to says it doesn't matter, however, I've had the opposite experience.

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Are you sure that the washer shim did not fall off the cam? its a very EASY thing to do.
It sounds to me that your QA cam is either broken or bent. This is whats influenced with hammer mod. Some users here have rebuilt them, they say its not that hard, right parts etc...
However, there is a shop that will rebuild them for you however you want.
My suggestion is to go on ebay, buy a used 10mm pump and put an 11mm head on it. All you have to do is make sure that the cam is shimmed enough so that it does not contact the head at TDC.
Might cost you $400-$600 depends on the parts you find. Only use the right parts, not cheep ebay crap.

if you had the pump apart you could have assembled the cam plate 180 out

jimbote said:

if you had the pump apart you could have assembled the cam plate 180 out

Click to expand...

Yup, a very easy oops to make, and the single biggest cause of "tons of white smoke and runs very rough, if at all" after a pump rebuild.

If jimbote is right you could set the pump 180* out when installing the belt.

If you are correct and the hub was moved on the shaft there is a procedure here to reinstall it. I believe you use a screw in a plugged hole at the front of the pump to hold the shaft while installing the hub.

Though there is a feller on here that says it requires a dial indicator to install it at a specified plunger position.

I'd try to get it installed correctly if it's been moved before giving up on the pump. I've observed that when timing and/or IQ are way off the other parameter seems to be affected.