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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old January 7th, 2019, 17:36   #16
xerootg
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: North Bend, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Mayercik View Post
As to the AW4, I wonder if the challenge is in the fact that most of the swaps seem to be the 97+ body style, and in most of those, the TCU is integrated into the ECU (I think that happened in 98 or 99, but I'm not 100% sure). Earlier models like my '92 have a standalone TCU box that might be a solution for the swap crowd.
This actually was never the case (I have a 2001 TCU sitting on my workbench). You have to replicate the 0-5v throttle position to keep the TCU happy though. The 97+ AW4 have an extra sensor, but can be driven with a pre-97 tcu with a bit-o-logic that Kastin on naxja came up with. I built a PCB for this a while back but never had good luck with Kastin's circuit. The 00-01 TCUs have a lower WOT shift point that should be right at 5k. I'd stick with that.
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Old January 9th, 2019, 16:35   #17
JeddaDeezl
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Great info on the AW4 guys! Goes to prove the info is out there if youíre looking for it...which I obviously was not! To be honest Iíd have to really dislike stick (for me itís the opposite) to put that much effort into retaining a 4 speed automatic. But good to know it can be done for those that must!

I just cleared out a very stubborn glow plug today which Iíve been working on all week. Finally got it all out of there so now I can put this engine in my Jeep confidently. Always easier to do this kind of thing with the engine out of the vehicle!

I also got a different coolant flange for the back of the head which will simplify coolant hose routing a bit. You may notice I cut my hard coolant pipe as well, with it being from an auto it had an extra tee off it for the trans heat exchanger that I will not need.



Crappy pic I know, but I am running the above pictured flange flipped 180. In order to make sure it would still seal and flow properly I traced the opening and centers of the mounting holes on a piece of clear plastic. Held over the new flange it shows the seal is still 100% in contact with the head surface, though the hole is slightly misaligned but Iím OK with it.

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Old January 13th, 2019, 18:34   #18
JeddaDeezl
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Default ALH into 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

Frame side mounts are gusseted and complete. Engine is in again.



I thought I was out of the woods on this. Had a stuck broken glow plug. During the extraction the tip of the plug dropped out into the cylinder. Thankfully the smallest magnet pen I could find grabbed the piece out through the injector hole. I Finally got it extracted but the threads were compromised. Looks like a ReCoil Kit is recommended per Frankís write up. Anyone used a Time-Sert kit on a VW head?



Im planning on adapting this port on the oil filter housing for my Jeep oil pressure sender to feed my dash gauge.



The Jeep sender fits but the thread pitch is wrong, Jeep sender is 1/8Ē NPT pipe thread and the VW port is M10x1.0. I found a $45 remote sender unit adapter kit that allows you to mount 2 senders to the one stock port but itís $45. A hard adapter for the port I have the Jeep sender in for the picture is $8, I just need to make sure I have the clearance to the engine mount to make it work.


Last edited by JeddaDeezl; January 13th, 2019 at 19:23.
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Old January 13th, 2019, 20:52   #19
A-man930
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Location: St. Louis
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Lookin good! Keep the updates coming!

-What are you doing for A/C?

-what steel pan did/do you have that's deeper than the stocker?

-what are you doing about the starter clearance issue?
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Old January 14th, 2019, 12:57   #20
JeddaDeezl
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Originally Posted by A-man930 View Post
Lookin good! Keep the updates coming!

-What are you doing for A/C?

-what steel pan did/do you have that's deeper than the stocker?

-what are you doing about the starter clearance issue?
Thanks! Absolutely will keep the updates coming. Also, I am filming this and when I have enough progress under my belt will be editing and rolling out on a popular YouTube channel for Jeeps, so I'll post a link to that when it drops.

To answer your questions: For A/C I am going to have to look into a passenger side mounted AC compressor. I am not worried about that until stage 2 of my build. Stage 1 is get it running/driving and all kinks worked out.

I have a steel pan I picked up from a guy selling it on a Facebook group. It is for the ALH engine. It is not significantly deeper, but it sticks down about an extra 1/2" and though it's the same basic shape as the cast aluminum one, it's not as crisp of a bend as that so it definitely would cut down on track bar clearance. I have some lift components now to boost this XJ up about another 2" so I am going to do that soon here and see what that looks like.

Starter clearance is solved by clocking the engine in the center hole of the adapter which is roughly vertical but still leaning slightly to passenger side (the way it normally leans in the Jetta). I was just showing how tight it is with the engine set to "full passenger side tilt" on the adapter. Randy (EVGuy1) told me that he is no longer going to make these with the same 3 holes like mine has because a lot of people want to drill theirs out for a different clocking position anyway, which makes sense. Realistically you could clock his adapter any way you wanted by drilling your own 6 holes in the transmission side of the adapter.
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Old January 14th, 2019, 13:04   #21
JeddaDeezl
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Iíve got a Nictane MK4 TDI fuel filter kit coming in and I am thinking at this point of using the stock XJ fuel pump as a lift pump, regulated by this adjustable regulator from Summit.



I will install it pre-filter and have a pressure gauge on the Nictane housing. The Jeep fuel pump is internally regulated so in theory it will switch off automatically when the 4.0 spec line pressure is met and turn back on to pressurize again whenever that drops to the triggering pressure. If the pump burns up quickly I have a spare, if that burns up quickly again I will try either removing it altogether and letting the injection pump do itís own lifting or figure out another solution. Unless someone has a better idea to start with!
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Old January 15th, 2019, 08:56   #22
ManicMechanic
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For your oil pressure sender Autometer makes an adapter that will let you use an 1/8npt sender. The part number is 2265 and they sell for like 15 bucks. It's what I'm using for my manual gauges.

For your fuel pump I would just remove the fuel pump from the tank all together. Take the sender out and take the fuel pump off it and replace the pump with a section of pipe. The ALH runs fine with no lift pump and putting pressure in the system could cause some problems.
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Old January 15th, 2019, 12:51   #23
JeddaDeezl
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I found an adapter on eBay for $8.99 shipped, so I am trying that. It's M10x1.0 male to 1/8" NPT female and comes with a crush washer. I looked up the Autometer PN and it's available on Amazon for $12.32 with free Prime shipping, so if the eBay one doesn't work out I'll definitely order the Autometer.

Thanks for the input on the fuel pump, I'll go with that then and see how we do! I am not making big power with the ALH, theoretically I will be at 135 horse now, I will probably bump up to VNT17, larger nozzles, and step up the tune once I have it all shaken down. At that point maybe it makes sense to run a lift pump of some sort.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ManicMechanic View Post
For your oil pressure sender Autometer makes an adapter that will let you use an 1/8npt sender. The part number is 2265 and they sell for like 15 bucks. It's what I'm using for my manual gauges.

For your fuel pump I would just remove the fuel pump from the tank all together. Take the sender out and take the fuel pump off it and replace the pump with a section of pipe. The ALH runs fine with no lift pump and putting pressure in the system could cause some problems.
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Old January 18th, 2019, 21:38   #24
JeddaDeezl
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I have mainly been working on the fuel system lately. I got the floor above the fuel tank heavily rust protected using Chassis Saver and then Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator.





I then modified the fuel pump assembly to be a simple fuel pickup. Tomorrow I will pick up a fitting and drill a hole to install a return. The evap fitting will just be a vent then.





I bought a Nicktane Uber filter setup with a Donaldson P553203 Fuel filter/water separator and I will run the Donaldson water bowl on the bottom.

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