MEgearhead
Veteran Member
I purchased the tools from vw.snapon.com. The 3415 crank counter hold , T10050 crank locking fixture, 3359 cam locking pin, and 3393 cradle alignment pins, or equivalents are required in my opinion. The T10058 makes the rear pan bolts easy, but any extra long ball end 6mm Allen should work. The T10053 makes replacing the seal simple. The most difficult part was getting the old sprocket off the crank. I broke one puller, and bent the bolts on a bearing separator. If I did it again I'd get the puller identified in the MOGolf write-up. I finally made something similar by grinding grade 8 3/8-16 bolt heads eccentric and using a hub puller. This is where the crank counter hold comes in handy. Getting the new sprocket on gave me all kinds of grief also. The first time it seized on the crank only barely on. I was able to pull it off, but the second time it seized on the crank not quite on eventhough I made sure the sprocket was at the high end of the temp range, and tried to work fast. I pressed it the rest of the way using the bolt from T10053, a heavy washer, and some pipe. ACE used to carry Hanson taps. Wherever you go I'd get a quality one. I used an old Craftsman from back when Craftsman was quality. Throw the square headed pipe plug that comes with the kit away and get a set screw. The plumbing style pipe plug was in the way of the windage tray. I used a flush pipe plug with an Allen socket since I already tapped it with a NPT. A 3/8 set screw sounds easier. It doesn't have to be leak proof, as long as it tight and doesn't leak more than the BSM did through the bearing clearances. I pulled the front end completely off. I'd hate to try and do it in the little space called the service position. You have to take the trans lines and rad hoses apart to get to the service position anyway, and the A/C condenser will rotate out of the way along the passenger fender. Anymore, I interpret "put the lock carrier in the service position" as rip the front of the car off. It's easy enough and makes any work on the front of the engine way easier. If you don't want to deal with the trans fluid, get some rubber plugs and quickly plug the trans lines. If you work quickly you won't loose enough to make a difference. I just went ahead and did a fluid and filter change. Just my opinion/experience. It seems everyone has their own method. Now that I reminisce, if I had to do one again I'd just drive or tow it to Saint Louis so OH could do it while I sit by the pool at the motel.