Installing 2260VKLR to ALH golf, any advice where to plumb water hoses??

MAXRPM

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I have been looking here for pics if anyone have hooked up the water hoses to an ALH and I cant find anything,, where would it be a good hook up inlet and oulet for it, I am sure someone got this trubo hooked up to an ALH, in the other hand some thread members said that they do not need to be hooked up, I believe the water hoses are on this turbo for a purpose,,, any help would be appreciated,,
 

flee

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The hose(s) to the heater are fairly accessible and already near the firewall.
Use metal fittings to splice in; plastic will end in tears.
I overheated once because plastic fittings the PO used let go after a few years.
 

Rrusse11

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MAX,

Did you buy one of the turbos from gottuned.com?

https://gottuned.com/product/billet-wheel-gtb2060vklr-ball-bearing-upgraded-turbo-vacuum-converted-and-welded-onto-stock-1-9-2-0tdi/

I must confess to lusting after their GTB1756VK. I assume, and 'scuse
my ignorance, is that the water is for cooling the ball bearing shaft.
When I deleted my EGR, I got a SS nipple and tied those hoses together. I got the same advice as from flee, go metal for any of those
heater hose connectors/fittings.

Keep us informed as to progress!
 

MAXRPM

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MAX,

Did you buy one of the turbos from gottuned.com?

https://gottuned.com/product/billet-wheel-gtb2060vklr-ball-bearing-upgraded-turbo-vacuum-converted-and-welded-onto-stock-1-9-2-0tdi/

I must confess to lusting after their GTB1756VK. I assume, and 'scuse
my ignorance, is that the water is for cooling the ball bearing shaft.
When I deleted my EGR, I got a SS nipple and tied those hoses together. I got the same advice as from flee, go metal for any of those
heater hose connectors/fittings.

Keep us informed as to progress!


My Jetta got GTD1756VRK and man I could not be more satisfied having that turbo in it,, I wish I could've had it 10 years ago when all of us with PDs and ALHs were going crazy with 17/22, what difference with this turbo,, could not be any happier,,, and Yes all of my projects will now be with GOTTUNNED in Poland, damn great guys to deal with,,,


going with the topic now and answering your question,, I am in the process of upgrading my GTB2260VK from my racer Golf and making it a GTB2260VK with ball bearing basically we need to change the CHRA from VK to VKLR , turbo still be GTB2260VK but with ball bearing, I am probably be the guinea pig with this project, it should be fun I will dyno and see results in my ALH, I imagine it will spool quicker than journal bearing vk turbo,, I will do WPC treatment on shaft, bearing, maybe wheels and any internal that may need to be treated, so I can get best result with less fatigue and less friction giving me stronger metal surface and longer longevity on internal parts I understand there are some members that will always be skeptical no matter what, but hey let me try it and see,, I may even get a quicker spool by doing such treatment on it too who knows??? hey I am the guinea pig on this on this project anyway,,,,, project is under way..
 

Rrusse11

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"My Jetta got GTD1756VRK and man I could not be more satisfied having that turbo in it,,
I wish I could've had it 10 years ago when all of us with PDs and ALHs were going crazy with 17/22"

Thanks Max,

I picked up a 17/22 that had never been installed a year or so ago.
Finally got the tune and nozzles sorted and car's running great.
But I've got the disease, sooner or later, a bigger, or at least, better,
turbo is in the cards. Rear brake upgrade next, and a head and cam
from Franko6 whenever he gets to it, I'll throw in some ARP headstuds then.

Good to hear your input on gottuned, they look good on the internet,
great to hear from someone who's done business with them.

Cheers!
 

Fix_Until_Broke

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There's a small (6mm or so) tube that runs from the top of the cylinder head, across the firewall and drops into the coolant ball. I'd tee into this and run it through the turbo. The turbo does not require much flow and this is relatively small and easy to plumb in.
 

MAXRPM

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There's a small (6mm or so) tube that runs from the top of the cylinder head, across the firewall and drops into the coolant ball. I'd tee into this and run it through the turbo. The turbo does not require much flow and this is relatively small and easy to plumb in.
You are referring to the little tubing that is close to the water temp sensor?
 

Markus L

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There's a small (6mm or so) tube that runs from the top of the cylinder head, across the firewall and drops into the coolant ball. I'd tee into this and run it through the turbo. The turbo does not require much flow and this is relatively small and easy to plumb in.
It's cylinder head's bleed line. Not a good idea if you want bleeding work correctly.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

Top Post Dawg
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You are referring to the little tubing that is close to the water temp sensor?
Yes, that one

It's cylinder head's bleed line. Not a good idea if you want bleeding work correctly.
It'll bleed just fine - there's always a little stream running out of mine into the coolant ball so I'd assume it'll push through the turbo and into the coolant ball just fine as well.

I'd have to go look, but I believe this is how Charlie setup the VKLR on my TT.
 

Markus L

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Yes, that one
It'll bleed just fine - there's always a little stream running out of mine into the coolant ball so I'd assume it'll push through the turbo and into the coolant ball just fine as well.
I'd have to go look, but I believe this is how Charlie setup the VKLR on my TT.
Enjoy your boiling coolant.
 

MAXRPM

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Yes, that one
It'll bleed just fine - there's always a little stream running out of mine into the coolant ball so I'd assume it'll push through the turbo and into the coolant ball just fine as well.
I'd have to go look, but I believe this is how Charlie setup the VKLR on my TT.
Did you run only one hose coming directly from that tubing to inlet of turbo then outlet from turbo is going to coolant reservoir. Or you Teed with 2 hoses one going to turbo and the other hose going to coolant reservoir And Teed at coolant reservoir meeting 2 hoses? Sorry for my ignorance but I'd like to do it right.
 

Fix_Until_Broke

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The TT was originally a 1.8T so it uses the factory coolant after-run pump to cool the turbo. Sorry for any misleading info there.

I would suggest running from the cylinder head, to the turbo, out of the turbo to the coolant reservoir. A series circuit so the coolant must go through the turbo.

I just measured the flow from the bleed line on my fully warmed up ALH and got 550 ml/2 min which is 0.275 L/min which is 16.5 L/hr or 16.5 kg/hr (assuming 100% water)

Water will absorb 1 Wh/kg K, so 16.5 watts/C at idle. Typical running temp is 90C, boiling point is at least 110C so 330 watts minimum heat absorption before that stream of coolant boils. At higher engine speeds, it will be a lot more.

Does anyone know if there is there a coolant flow rate requirement on the VKLR turbos?
 

turbobrick240

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Seeing as how a number of folks run them without any coolant flow, I wouldn't think that they require a whole lot.
 

Rrusse11

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So hot (90C) coolant will help to cool the bearings, and how

hot do they get? As per one respondent, and Fix till brokes calculation
on flow rates, will this boil the coolant in a 6mm tube?
My understanding is that there is oil AND water cooling?
 

mrchill

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You can run it without the coolant. It isnt really an issue. I have mine bisected by a heater hose as is proper....my other car has no cooling hooked up. NO difference in power...maybe longevity will be a factor...but not likely as the turbos dont run at full chat very often.
 

Markus L

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Pls explain why is a bad idea?
Air might get trapped in cylinder head. Bleed lines should be routed upwards all the way to the expansion tank. Also you don't get much benefit to performance or durability with that small flow. Properly set water cooling has proven to increase measured compressor efficiency.
 

MAXRPM

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Going to try to hook it up to tubing by water sensor hopefully I won't melt plastic tubing on water reservoir
 

3L3M3NT

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Is there a chance that someone has a picture or could take a picture of how they Teed into their heater hoses on their MKIV TDI?
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
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Is there a chance that someone has a picture or could take a picture of how they Teed into their heater hoses on their MKIV TDI?
cut them with some barbed 3/4 run 1/2 leg tees (don't use PVC) and run the hoses
the pressure drop across the heater core is enough to motivate some flow through there
 

3L3M3NT

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cut them with some barbed 3/4 run 1/2 leg tees (don't use PVC) and run the hoses
the pressure drop across the heater core is enough to motivate some flow through there
Awesome! Thanks for the tip and good call on not using plastic fittings. :D
 

Rrusse11

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Awesome! Thanks for the tip and good call on not using plastic fittings. :D

When I did my EGR delete I found a stainless steel barbed nipple to tie
the coolant hoses together. I too was warned about using plastic fittings.
I'd be a bit concerned about using brass due to the possibility of electrolysis
with the aluminum block. I got lucky at a big local plumbing supply,
a "T" might be a bit more difficult.
 

3L3M3NT

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When I did my EGR delete I found a stainless steel barbed nipple to tie
the coolant hoses together. I too was warned about using plastic fittings.
I'd be a bit concerned about using brass due to the possibility of electrolysis
with the aluminum block. I got lucky at a big local plumbing supply,
a "T" might be a bit more difficult.
Thought about posting that exact same question last night about what metal would be safe to use when teeing into the heater hoses. I was able to find plenty of brass tee fittings out there, but only a few stainless steel option in that 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 size T fitting.

Here's what I found in brass.
Sharkbite Brass tee fitting
6 Pack PEX Brass Lead Free Tees
AB Brass Barbed Tee

Then I honestly only found this one in Stainless Steel.
Stainless Steel Tee
I just wish it wasn't $23.16 for each one. :eek:

best not look at your thermostat and ECT sensor then
That's the other problem with brass fittings is that their operating range is 40*F to 200*F

Right now I'm leaning towards going with the SS tee just to play it safe, unless someone can show me that brass tee fittings will work without causing any issues in the cooling system.
 

Rrusse11

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3L3,


Well the AB T is $18, the SS $23. I'd be going for the 316 SS.
I'd also recommend liner clamps like these;


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Box-of-10-Velvac-SS-Hose-Clamps-with-Protective-Liner-Clamping-Range-3-4-1-25/133011710812?hash=item1ef81da35c:g:3xoAAOSw-b9axPME:sc:USPSFirstClass!17603!US!-1
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
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02 golf ALH
That's the other problem with brass fittings is that their operating range is 40*F to 200*F
Right now I'm leaning towards going with the SS tee just to play it safe, unless someone can show me that brass tee fittings will work without causing any issues in the cooling system.
thousands and thousands of cars with paper thin brass heater cores and radiators can't be wrong

ETA: and those special hose clamps are for silicone hoses, normal rubber does not care. In fact I kind of prefer the stock spring ones as there's no worry of retensioning them
 
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MAXRPM

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Brass fitting melting? Excatly radiators do not melt, but maybe water coming from turbo oulet got to be hotter than water circulating in the system, anybody knows which of 2 inlet ports at heather core is inlet and oulet?
 
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