which sway bar link to buy?

I have a "clunk" forming at the passenger front. I did a complete suspension refresh not so long ago so I'm assuming it's not any of those parts. Sounds like sway bar links are a common offender and they're cheap.

Can anyone provide info on what the preferred replacement is?


When I go to IDParts or ECS Tuning, there are many different versions of the sway bar links. Also, replace bolts or re-use?


Lastly, is the stock bar a 21 or 23mm?


Thanks!

Both 21 and 23 mm sway bars came on the mk4 platform cars. As far as I know there really isn't a surefire rhyme or reason to determine which yours has short of measuring it. And easy way that another member recommended is to grab a 21 mm box end wrench and see if it fits on the sway bar. If so you have a 21 mm bar. If not...well I think you get the picture.

As far as which type, I don't think it really matters as long as it is meant for your platform.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll find out what the OEM part number is and probably just get those. The originals lasted 200K miles.


Unfortunately, I moved and my shop isn't yet built at my new place so everything is these days is done on my back with jack stands rather than on a lift.

You should be able to measure the sway bar by just turning the wheel all the way to one end and reaching in.

Changing them on jack stands will certainly be enjoyable lol. I remember cursing my car when I changed mine on a lift. But it did make the clunk that I had been chasing for a long time go away, so that was satisfying.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I did a complete refresh at 256k, and changed this out the other evening at 364k. I had developed a clunk turning left. This isn’t a hard job, 20 minutes tops , jacking the car up and getting the wheel off takes as long or longer than changing the link.



Mine fell apart.

Good info -- thanks guys!

I used the plastic ramps when I broke one, worked great

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

OlyTDI said:

I have a "clunk" forming at the passenger front. I did a complete suspension refresh not so long ago so I'm assuming it's not any of those parts. Sounds like sway bar links are a common offender and they're cheap.

Can anyone provide info on what the preferred replacement is?


When I go to IDParts or ECS Tuning, there are many different versions of the sway bar links. Also, replace bolts or re-use?


Lastly, is the stock bar a 21 or 23mm?


Thanks!

Click to expand...

If the links are not at fault; rearward LCA bushing or tie rod ends *outer* are very common culprits in these gens


Easy way to do it. Jack stands and a jack to press the LCA up. Keep an eye on your cvs not to strain them too much; I would just jack up the car; then you can honestly leave it all in place and simply throw the jack under the LCA till the link is not strained that much *I haven't done this but I'd do it that way myself at least*

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Sway bar bushing ........... is the culprit ! Measure for 21 or 23mm!

AndyBees said:

Sway bar bushing ........... is the culprit ! Measure for 21 or 23mm!

Click to expand...

Second this. This is what I was assuming the OP was referring to in the first place rather than the sway bar links themselves

Dhawk12 said:

Second this. This is what I was assuming the OP was referring to in the first place rather than the sway bar links themselves

Click to expand...

Well now I was thinking the links. But now that I've done some more reading on the bushing idea, that seems like a good first step.

I so appreciate the responses. Love the brain trust here!

Only because this thread is already started and I think I'm due for bushings and sway bar links, but do y'all recommend going to the claimed "upgraded" metal links? I'm running the composite/plastic ones currently. Is there really a benefit to the metal version for this application? Just seems like they will be prone to rust and not offer any greater stiffness.

I have to crawl under and measure my sway bar as well.

OlyTDI, when you get the bushings, pay attention to if they're rubber or silicone. Rubber ones don't need to be greased, but the silicone ones need grease. The manufacturers will usually include some grease with them, but not all the time. Grease them on the inside and outside before you bolt it all together or you'll be hearing this creaking/groaning noise that is pretty typical on a MK4.

KrashDH, it doesn't really matter for most of us. Sometimes you'll find metal ones cheaper. For daily driven commuters as long as it's within factory spec, it makes no difference.

Be safe installing parts, everyone. I had one ramp fail under my car and it caused the other one to fail. Storebought ramps that I've used for a while, but one still went. Luckily, I wasn't under the car at the time. I was watching it slowly lower itself between the ramps. Put jack stands or a wheel under the car too, just in case.

Good -- I'll keep that all in mind. Thanks!