2001 jetta tdi vibration under power

My tdi has a vibration with increase of throttle, no vibration on coasting.

Could this be something in the axles?

Thanks Tom

Check engine mounts, trans mounts, CV axles, wheel bearings, tie rods and the dog bone. hard to tell with limited info. are the vibrations like a shaking or a rumbling or a vibrations like a personal massager!!!!is it felt in the steering wheel more of the brake pedal? does it sound like its on one side or the entire car?

It is whole car slight vibration. When I apply barely throttle pressure. it starts and stays the same when I speed up and stays until I back throttle off while coasting and starts again when I put pressure on throttle.


Thanks again Tom

Next time, back up with the wheel full lock, try both directions. If you hear clicking/clunking then it's the cv joint. Get a jack and put it under the engine and put enough pressure on it to lift off the mounts and feel them, should still be tight. Possibly the dog bone is worn or bolts have stripped or backed out.
With each wheel in the air, try and rock them side to side and top to bottom. Should be no play. Check your wheel studs too.
I'm assuming it's a automatic?

Check inner cv joint.

what is the dog bone? Where is it located?

it attaches the rear of the motor to the frame. crawl underneath the car (without hurting yourself) and its at the back centered under the hood.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-VW...ne-Transmission-Motor-Mount-Kit-/291259723958
looks like this.

Thanks, I'll check it out later

Tom

it could be any of the above suggested things. mine was bad axles (clicking when turning) and the second time was a bad front bearing that time it was slight vibration but more of a droning sound then anything. the second one would get louder the faster i went, and died as i slowed down. Yours sounds like it could be more engine/trans related tho because you said it stops if you take your foot off the pedal, but not necessarily...in other words start with the most likely problem

CV Joint(s) ....

Mine has been doing the same thing for quite some time! I did identify the problem when doing a TB job a while back. It may happen, but I've never seen a Dog-bone go bad.

Clicking in turns indicates an outer CV joint going bad.

Steering wheel shimmy when pressing the go-pedal indicates an inner CV joint (or both - usually both) going bad.

Wheel bearings will howl or whine. After you do everything to locate the bad bearing, it is most likely the other side.

The good news on inner CV joints is that they are easy to change, and can be easily repaired with a can of good EP grease, lots of paper towels, and some time. All you have to do is swap them side to side. That way you get many more thousands of miles out of the non-pitted side of the races.

Cheers,

PH

Powder Hound said:

.................snip.......................The good news on inner CV joints is that they are easy to change, and can be easily repaired with a can of good EP grease, lots of paper towels, and some time. All you have to do is swap them side to side. That way you get many more thousands of miles out of the non-pitted side of the races.

Cheers,

PH

Click to expand...

I call that a Top Tip. Only applies to manual transmission.

Hi all,

I had issues similar to the OP but mine STARTED after a suspension refresh ( literally every thing but the cv joints and axles)

It was mentioned in an earlier post if clicking occurs when steering tight then it's a CV joint .... but what happens if there's a clicking noise going straight and unaffected by turns?

The reason I ask this is because at least in my particular case the problems seem to go away when the strange mechanical clicking started ....

Maybe something was wearing and that's what caused the noise and or strange feel and then when whatever broke or changed to clicking issue seem to go away?

Question to op ... are your symptoms also associated with drone? Mine were but the Drone and vibration went away when the clicking started so not sure what to make of the clicking ....

Solved the problem by switching front tires to rear after jacking left front clear of ground
and starting car and putting in gear, watching left front wheel spin. saw wheel tire was not running true. Switched both sides what a relief. Why did this did it while applied power?
Getting new tires tomorrow.

Thank you guys for all the replies,

Tom

So your wheel is bent? Sounds like it strained the cv axle and now that you have a good one on that side it's not stressing the axle. Have the wheels balanced and check for runnout. Your axle may be the problem but what you did might just be a bandaid.
What is the dot number on the tires? First 2 are month and last 2 are year.