For the record, I still suggest that no one modifies their fuel pump.
The latest (as of Feb 2017) iteration I have made of the Left Coast Resident’s fuel pump modification is as follows.
1- 47245K24 a 5/16” barbed check valve.
1-5372K614 a 5/16” barbed tee.
4-53175K84 stamped 11, range 9.5 to 11.5mm rolled edge 360 degree hose clamp.
2-53175K86 stamped 13, range 11.5 to 13.5mm rolled edge 360 degree hose clamp.
The above are from McMaster.com.
1-Flex-08-236, is an 8mm 236mm long corrugated hose.
2” - 516J30R10, is 5/16 submerged in fuel rated slick hose – buy 2”.
1-flex-08-160, is an 8mm ID, 160mm long hose that can replace your original pump to canister top hose to restore the original configuration (my recommendation) – or it can be used as a donor for the coupling to hook up the modification in option 3B, below.
The above can be purchased at
http://apeusa.com/html/kits.html Page down to see them.
Do not tighten a hose clamp until instructed, but remember to put them in place before inserting the barbs.
1) Trim the input and output of the check valve so that the barb is left in place (this is only cutting off about 2.5mm on each end).
2) Trim the tee so that only one barb is left on each leg.
3) Option A. Carefully cut the pump discharge hose such that the cylindrical part between the beginning of the corrugations and the top of the pump discharge nozzle (which is visible inside the hose) is cut in half. I used a new and very sharp hobby knife. This left enough on each end of my hose to fit over the barbs on the tee. Doing it this way allowed me to leave the Oetiker clamp alone.
3) Option B. Cut the existing discharge even with the top of the pump nozzle, remove the Oetiker clamp, remove the hose from the discharge nozzle. This leaves a few mm more of the cylindrical part of the hose to clamp on the tee. Now cut off the cylindrical barrel on one end of the 160mm hose, and use it as a short coupling hose to connect the bottom of the tee to the pump discharge, slip on and tighten an 11 hose clamp.
4) Cut a vee into one end of the 236mm long hose. Hold the hose such that this vee is upwards and squeeze the hose into an oval cross-section for about 2/3 of its length. If you don’t slightly deform the hose in this fashion it is almost impossible to insert it into the return fuel slot of the lower canister; insert it now, such that the vee is up, and the hose reaches the inside bottom of the lower canister. This is the suction hose.
5) Slip on an 11 hose clamp, then insert the black end of the check valve into the suction hose.
6) Take a 27mm long piece of the thickwall 5/16” tubing, slip on both 14 clamps, and insert one end into the white end of the check valve, the other end into one of the opposed barbs on the tee.
7) Put an 11 hose clamp on and then insert the other opposed barb of the tee into the discharge hose.
8) Put an 11 hose clamp on and insert the bottom leg of the tee into the pump discharge.
9) Leaving the hose clamps loose until now has allowed you to rotate the components to minimize stresses on the hose and canister, and prevent kinks. Now tighten all hose clamps, ensuring that they do not rub on any wire or hose, even when the top of the canister is pushed down.
This mod leaves the check valve projecting out one side past the canister wall. This makes it tricky to insert – insert the bottom canister leaving the top sticking out of the tank, move the assembly sideways, finagle the check valve under the lip, then put on the seal ring and insert the top part of the canister into the tank.
These components cost about $30, when done in bulk, but the hose clamps and barbs only come in bags of 10, raising the cost to about $52 to get enough stuff shipped to you to make one assembly.
Again my recommendation is to leave your pump in the original configuration, or restore it to the original configuration.
For the record, I still suggest that no one modifies their fuel pump.
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