Glow plug busted, can't get out...

Did an uneventful oil and filter change on the '03 this morning, so after lunch figured I'd replace the #2 glow plug that the yellow CEL and VAG-COM tells me is bad. After a couple hard turns it suddenly got real easy to turn, it's all there but I can see the top spin independent of the hex wrench flats and looks like the base may not be turning at all. Tried turning with pliers while pulling up and turning with a screwdriver wedging it away from the head, still cant get it out. Any suggestions?

Tom (ninedee_golf_tdi on the forums) has a tool for removing broken or spinning GPs, but he's in Stafford, VA. You might try e-mailing him.

Does this mean the threads on the head are stripped out? I dont know about this engine. would like to find out whats going on here. So the hex is spinning freely?

If it was stripped out the threads, you could just start the engine, have someone rev it up to 2k and just take a impact to it and the PSI force of the combustion would send it flying i imagine. lol JK this probably is a really bad idea!

No, looks like the glow plug has broken. Made a couple full throttle runs with it and nothing budged, seemed to have normal power.

as long as the threads on the head are good to go, than this is a relatively cheep repair. would love to find out what tool Tom has for this. I would imaging a good drill bit and an easy out would do the trick or something like that. , yea my last post was a joke btw

Good luck with that, haven't had luck with getting them out like that. I busted one of mine years ago ( 7 or more years ) . To fix mine , the head needs to come off and have the GP EDM out. Car starts fine off three GP's plus I have a block heater. To get rid of the CEL I combined my two wire system on the harness so it does not show an imbalance and cause a CEL.

csstevej said:

Good luck with that, haven't had luck with getting them out like that. I busted one of mine years ago ( 7 or more years ) . To fix mine , the head needs to come off and have the GP EDM out. Car starts fine off three GP's plus I have a block heater. To get rid of the CEL I combined my two wire system on the harness so it does not show an imbalance and cause a CEL.

Click to expand...

This is what i would do 100%, already have the heater core

That's what I might have to do. My cars have a heated garage to stay in now and being retired they don't have to sit in a cold parking lot at work overnight.

The tool that we have seen that ninedee_golf_tdi used to be expensive and not likely to be a loaner tool. It is a bit complicated to use and has breakable parts. I have purchased one and will use it as a loaner. The tool must be 'purchased' and then, when returned, if all the parts are there and not damaged, we will return all of the expense, except a reasonable loaner fee. If you are interested in the tool, please call or email, preferrably.

Sometimes this is not an issue major issue except for the cel light and I would defeat the cel like csstevej suggests. In other words, choose your battles. This one may not be worth the fight.

When removing gp's while the cylinder head is off, we do not EDM. We drill out, which is cheaper and quicker and honestly we have had a 100% success, as long as there are not secondary issues.

Impact wrenches? WHAAAAT?? I guess you must mean a hand impact hammer, but that is a really big MAYBE. I do agree with using penetrating oil, either the 'home brew' Russe11 uses or any of the others...Kroil, PB blaster, etc. We will even build a clay dyke to hold the oil against the plug. For extended days, each time the engine is turned off and cooled down, add some more penetrant.

For actual removal of the gp, without snapping the head... you must understand that the hex head is attached with a thin shell of steel to the rest of the gp. I don't know why they make it so weak, but the official writing by Bosch recommends setting a torque wrench to no more than 33 ft lbs (be sure your torque wrench is accurate...) and do not exceed that torque or the head will snap off. So, the effort is the get the gp to MOVE. Either direction is fine. We have worked a gp for better than 1/2 hr to remove it, which beats drilling out a busted off one.

I know, why would I tighten it when it will not loosen? Don't ask any more except that it often works. We will hammer the area around the gp.. anything to get it to move, but if the gp will not budge at 30 ft lbs, we will consider the alternative, which means we stop and leave it alone. Choose the battle for another day, like when the cylinder head is off.

I've had #2 non functional for at least 100K miles with no ill effects so far. Your's truly rounded out the plug.

Yup, may as well wait 'til...

At least the next timing belt replacement. Car runs fine other than the CEL, so I'll leave it 'til next summer at least. Unless I get real bored...

"I know, why would I tighten it when it will not loosen? Don't ask any more except that it often works. We will hammer the area around the gp.. anything to get it to move, but if the gp will not budge at 30 ft lbs, we will consider the alternative, which means we stop and leave it alone. Choose the battle for another day, like when the cylinder head is off." Franko6

Don't own an impact wrench, nor do I want one. Can you say "Hearing Damage"? But it's the idea of shocking the threads, vibration if you will, that I find helps get a lubricant into them. And going back and forth as you said is going to help that. You are stretching things, it takes a delicate touch to not go beyond the yield limit. I suppose we're talking elastic limits of the material. Experience and persistence pays. I note that you tap around it, vibration again.

And as you say, go slow, I like the idea of building a clay dam around the offender and running the motor. Expansion and contraction. Infintesimal movements and patience, patience,
patience.

My $.02.

BTW, how do I fool the glow plug wiring that everything is normal so the CEL goes out?

Connect all the wires to each other, strip a section of wire and solder them together so there is no load imbalance in the circuit.

Rrusse11 said:

Don't own an impact wrench, nor do I want one. Can you say "Hearing Damage"? But it's the idea of shocking the threads, vibration if you will, that I find helps get a lubricant into them. And going back and forth as you said is going to help

Click to expand...

One is not going to be operating an impact gun for hours on end, or even for more than a minute or two. I'd be up the creek w/o a paddle if not for my 1,200 ft-lb air impact gun. Try getting off nuts on bolts holding on rotary cutter blades (tractor implement) that's spec'd to 600 ft-lbs or so and has been attached for years. I had to break down and buy this more robust impact gun after my other one, with many days of repeated soakings with penetrating fluid) couldn't get the job done. Yeah, I'm NOT going to be using this on GPs! (I'll use it on other stuff, like suspension bits.)

Well, I'm just a "dumb" farmer I suppose (who happens to get/keep MANY things working0