CP3 fuel pump upgrade thread

I have been doing a lot of research on the tdi engines and their hpfp failures and could use some assistance.

I am considering a 2013 passat, but all of the cp3 conversion kits appear to be for golf's and jettas, I haven't found any for the CKRA engine and I'm wondering if the kits will still fit, or if I just need to replace the pump with another cp4.

Whitbread performance did ask for CKRA owners to come as testing for fitting purposes. Best to contact him.


I will let him know about you asking about it.

calimustang said:

Whitbread performance did ask for CKRA owners to come as testing for fitting purposes. Best to contact him.

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I will let him know about you asking about it.

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I actually just gave him a call and he told me there would be something for me within the next couple of months.

excellent! you definitely will help other CKRA powered Passat owners out there.

Hey guys,

I stumbled over this thread and read thru all the 19 pages, cause its quite interesting!
One question I have in particular is:
How can I fit this kit to my engine? I always read about the swaping the CP4.1 in the
first gen of VAGs 2L CRs, but what about the updated ones? Like the 143HP engines.
CFHD for example. Basically also the engines with solenoid instead of piezo injectors.
Will those Kits also fit as well? I didnt spent too much time into research what the difference is
between those engines.
Someone who can help out? Would be really awesome!

DivineChaos said:

Not without the adapter plate it won't. And if your keeping EGR. Get the pre bent line. It's a pita to get that ss high pressure line bent so it fits and uses all the anti vibe mounts.

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Where is the prebent lines sold at?

SilverCard said:

Where is the prebent lines sold at?

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Only place I saw it was being sold with the kit.

Just finished a CP3 upgrade for my 2012 JSW using a Whitbread/United Diesel kit/pump. Started right up and running great, however it throws a high pressure at the fuel rail code. Everything is stock otherwise. I saw mention to delete the inline fuel pump but haven’t seen it in any of the cp3 kit upgrade writeups so far.

Hmm do you know what’s your fuel meter valve model is? That could the culprit. I had same issue twice from other sellers on eBay in Europe.

I’ll have to look. It came pre-installed on the pump. I have read several posts now that the CP3 does not like pressurized fuel from the aux pump and I see most pics of cp3 upgrade have the aux pump deleted so I will remove the aux pump from the fuel circuit as well.

Oh yes please remove the aux pump. Cp3 pulls plenty of fuel alone so aux isn’t needed. Cp4 is too wimpy so aux pump was needed. Ridiculous design and wasteful of design and weight if you ask me.

Cp4 has only ONE piston

cp3 has 3 pistons.

Hence the aux pump needed to get lost.

I was one the first to have cp3 back in 2015’s and aux pump messed up and throwing CEL’s. Our rookie mistakes back then.

Aux pump deleted and problem solved. 1st test drive went well at least!

New to the forum. Reading lots of threads about needing a 2micron filter for cp3 pump. Now that they are out of production is that still required? Dont see why a cp3 would require an extra filter.

Where did you see that?
I seem to recall a thread where someone had PROBLEMS running a 2micron with a CP3

I have the additional 2micron filter installed with the CP3 pump. My understanding is that it is not required because the CP3 pump is quite robust, but "2Micron" said to me it ensures the cleanest possible fuel going into the CP3 pump. It was also an ingenious repurposing of the machined parts from the 2micron containment system used with the CP4 pump.

I have thought about removing mine, only because it seems to occasionally cause some confusion when I have the OEM fuel filter replaced by a mechanic unfamiliar with the modification. And it's more than a 2-hour drive to get to the mechanic that installed my CP3 pump. I'm also not a DIY guy for most of the maintenance on my car, so I wonder if it might be best to keep it simple.

Honestly I have been running straight oem filter style to my old 2Micron cp3 pump kit.
Zero issues ever. Just change filter every 10k miles for peace of mind if that helps you. I do every 20k miles and no issues.

Also whats up with the huge price difference on GDM cp3 swap kit and whitebread performance kits. Is one kit better than the other? Which kit are most of you guys running?

I don't know if one kit is better than another, but mine was installed at GDM in 2016 and at that time the parts were from 2Micron. I trusted the technical expertise of Les, the owner of GDM, and the parts from 2Micron, the inventor and machinist that created the modification.

About GDM, Les, and his Team

crzyjt said:

Just finished a CP3 upgrade for my 2012 JSW using a Whitbread/United Diesel kit/pump. Started right up and running great, however it throws a high pressure at the fuel rail code. Everything is stock otherwise. I saw mention to delete the inline fuel pump but haven’t seen it in any of the cp3 kit upgrade writeups so far.

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Its not published but yes remove it. The cp3 was not designed for 60psi inlet pressure. You still have the in tank lift pump. Also, is your car tuned?

The original instructions from 2Micron included removal of the Auxiliary fuel pump. Mine was removed.

CP3 Retrofit Pump Install

Well, been lurking on here for quite awhile, I did a CP3 swap and got about 5k miles out of my xman pump before it went. Got a new one on and now I am not getting it to run. It idled once and sounded like it had only two cylinders firing and then I checked some things and am now it just acts like it wants to start but cant

ThatTDILife said:

Well, been lurking on here for quite awhile, I did a CP3 swap and got about 5k miles out of my xman pump before it went. Got a new one on and now I am not getting it to run. It idled once and sounded like it had only two cylinders firing and then I checked some things and am now it just acts like it wants to start but cant

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What's the cranking fuel pressure? He's not been having good luck. Mine went in less than 150 miles

DivineChaos said:

What's the cranking fuel pressure? He's not been having good luck. Mine went in less than 150 miles

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I can check that tomorrow, you happen to know what measuring block that on or what its called in VCDS?

ThatTDILife said:

I can check that tomorrow, you happen to know what measuring block that on or what its called in VCDS?

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1, 11, 20, 21. Some of those are boost, some are fuel. I normally go thr long route and select it. Did you fully bleed the system?

DivineChaos said:

1, 11, 20, 21. Some of those are boost, some are fuel. I normally go thr long route and select it. Did you fully bleed the system?

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Thanks, I ran the pump for about 10 minutes before I tried starting. I wasn't able to find anything else on bleeding the system so I just primed the pump and then gave it a shot.

ThatTDILife said:

Thanks, I ran the pump for about 10 minutes before I tried starting. I wasn't able to find anything else on bleeding the system so I just primed the pump and then gave it a shot.

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Did you have fuel coming out of the return at the pump? And there's no codes?

I did have to crank mine an excessive amount. Probably 30-50 sec before it caught. And the hp-fuel lines have to be wayyyy tighter than you think. It's 20,000 psi.

DivineChaos said:

Did you have fuel coming out of the return at the pump? And there's no codes?

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I didn’t check the cp3 return to see if it had fuel coming out and I have a few codes but they seem to be all over the place

P0087 003 too low and 001 too low
P0016 - CMP Sensor incorrect correlation
P0193 - Short to plus Fuel pressue sensor
P2294 - Open circuit fuel pressue regulator valve
P0090 - Open circuit fuel metering valve

I finished my cp3 conversion yesterday and what I can say is:

First I Bleeded my input line to the pump. To make sure there is no dirt in this line, which could happened while working / cutting.
After a good amount came out, I connected it.
Then I bleeded the line to the fuel rail.
Which took a good time, till fuel went up there.
Connected it and then I let run the tank fuel pump for an other 4 minutes.
cranked It and it came after not more than 8 seconds.
Already pushed over 2700bars with that pump. So I think it’s good.

the first thing I notice with that pump Is: the car starts faster. Not much. Maybe one or 1.5 revolutions. But it does. Which is kinda cool. So instead of 3 revolutions, it takes now about 1.5-2

DivineChaos said:

1, 11, 20, 21. Some of those are boost, some are fuel. I normally go thr long route and select it. Did you fully bleed the system?

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Work has had me going all over so I haven't had a chance to log anything till tonight

Here is what I got from those measuring blocks. Did 2 attempts to crank it over, first one was measuring block 1, 11, and 20 while the second one I changed 1 to 21. Posting the low number and the high number

Injection Quantity: 24 mg/str - 38 mg/str
High Fuel Pressure (Actual): First crank was 80bar - 440bar, Second crank was 256bar - 464 (One spike of 744)
High Fuel Pressure (Specified): First Crank was 296bar - 424bar, Second crank was 296bar- 376bar(Said 296 bar even before I started to turn the car over)
High Fuel Pressure Control Valve: 8.7% - 36% (Was at 8.7% before I started cranking the car)
Quantity Measuring Control Valve: 36.3% - 51.3% (Was at 36.3 before I started cranking the car, was also on my second attempt at starting the car)
Boost (Specified): All 1008
Boost (Actual): All 984
Charge Pressure Control Duty Cycle: All 9.8%