Vag-Com rental or purchase needed

abbeyinc

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2006
Location
Alamosa, CO
TDI
Had two B4 TDi sedans, currently running a 96 B4 TDi wagon.
Hello,
I am preparing for a 1Z injection pump seal job. Does anyone have a Vag-Com they are willing to rent, or a surplus one they are willing to sell?
thanks
Matt
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
You do not need that for the seal job.
Scribe some lines on the body and the head. Put it back exactly where it was.
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
Last time I did it I put epoxy in 4 places with very thin threads bridging the gap. Thin threads assure that they break rather than pull off and it's easier to see the alignment.

I still checked it with VCDS and it had changed but not enough that I bothered fixing it.

Wouldn't rely on this method or scratches without VCDS.
 

Camel413

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Location
South East Missouri
TDI
96 Passat Wagen Totaled, 95 Passat GLX future conversion
Get a Vagcom, scribe lines will get you close but not 100% exactly like it was. Plus this is the perfect time to dial in the exact IQ that you want.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
So i have hammer moded about 50 times on my ahu during tuning and what not, i can tell you that the MOST off you will be is about 0.6. Ill get it exactly where i want it, and just the tightening of the bolts on the body will change it by usually +0.2-0.4 and the difference from one side of the scribe to the other was 0.2. So your at most 0.6 off from where you want. thats fine as normal range is 3-6, 3 is great for stock. My advice, just hammer mod the dang thing to a low number aka, once it start idleing a bit rough, tap it the other way so a tiny smidge so it idles smooth, DONE. you should be sitting around 1.8-2.8 give or take. 1.6-2.0 is where it starts to idle rough.
dont get me wrong, having the proper equipment is fantasic but for a daily driver with no mods and just general maintenance, you can save your self some hard cash by doing it this way. ALso do your timing belt by TDC then marking the belt and pullies with paint pen and reinstall new, you wont have to time it as it should be good.
Or just spend the few $$$ and get it. you have options.
There is a link somewhere here in the forums of the locations of people who have one who is usually willing to help out for a few beers.
 

Camel413

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Location
South East Missouri
TDI
96 Passat Wagen Totaled, 95 Passat GLX future conversion
Are you suggesting mark and pray for timing belt? That topic has been discussed on this forum ad nauseam and is 100% not recommended. Get the correct tools and do it by the correct procedure.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
Are you suggesting mark and pray for timing belt? That topic has been discussed on this forum ad nauseam and is 100% not recommended. Get the correct tools and do it by the correct procedure.
no i am not, not at all. should i elaborate what TDC means?
Indexing your cram, crank and IP are CRITICAL, but i have always done both TDC and lock out the cam and IP and marked the belt with paint. Otherwise you dont have any info when you take the belt off to decide if it was off time and what caused it. If your off time but all the markings are correct, cam sprocket slip, if not, you jumped a tooth etc.......
If the car is running fine, and you do a timing belt job, making sure its TDC and correct before you pull the belt, just mark and put on the new belt and dont worry about any timing issues with VCDS. i would only recommend this to the stock daily driver with proper good maintenance but on a budget.
I have done the mark and pray method twice but it was right after i just did the belt, like 20 miles afterwards due to a freak seal failure and oil leaking onto the belt. took me 22 minutes to swap the belt, didnt even check TDC. but this is one case it was "OK" to do so and i would say that its a sure fire way to make sure damage is done on an engine that is not running properly or just purchased.
 
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