Error code 18039 p1631 accelerator pedal - signal too high

Harpster50

New member
Joined
May 30, 2010
Location
birmingham, UK
TDI
Seat Alhambra 1.9 TDI
hi All

Car: Seat Alhambra 1.9 TDi 03 plate

have been having issues with accelerator pedal sensor error code above using a Vag com, I have changed the pedal unit and error keeps coming back also I keep on having this error 00526 - brake switch faluty code too, i changed the brake switch and that error code keeps coming back.:confused:

What can be the problem, do these two errors relate to the same problem.

Symptoms : Car jolts/judders at 20mph, 30mph and sometimes throughout the speed range. When driving sometimes the car just looses total acceleration until i take my foot off the accelerator and put it back on, (its like the pedal has to reset itself)
please advise

thanks
 

Johann_B

New member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Location
Norway
TDI
Ford Galaxy 2002
Hi Harpster50.
I have similar problem with my Galaxy, suddenly it cuts off (motor goes to idling) until I release the accelerator and press it again.
What was your problem?
Regards.
 

Johann_B

New member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Location
Norway
TDI
Ford Galaxy 2002
Hi.
I got the same code as Harpster50 wrote in the title of the thread.
I have changed the accelerator pedal with used one, without any change. I will try another one in the coming days. I'm hoping the used pedal I got was bad.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
+10 points for doing a search, -2 points for reviving an old thread. Dam drive by wire! I’m sure he fixed it and did not post the results. If I where you, this is one thing I should take to a good vw shop. Check wires for fraying; take a volt meter to it as well. Not sure what the fix is but I’m interested in knowing what the solution is. Other cars that have had this issue, the fix were always replacing the pedal. Take your volt meter, switch it to ohms and put it on the connection terminals of the old pedal and press it down though its cycle and do the same thing with the new used one, it should show you a value that gradually increases or decreases in range, if they both act the same and have no dead spots then both parts are in perfect working order. If there are dead zones where the ohms do not change then it’s the pedal.
 

Johann_B

New member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Location
Norway
TDI
Ford Galaxy 2002
I did a check of the pedal with VCDS lite, but it doesn't allow to compare the signals from both potentiometer(there are 2 inside the pedal unit), have to have a registered version for that.
I have checked the connections, at the pedal and at the ECU. Both looks good.
I have measured 5V to the pedal on 3 terminals, that I have found to be normal (compared to a working car).
 
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