10mm vs. 11mm IP

I was just seeing if anyone here has run a 10mm injection pump on their automatic?

Is there a major difference in power?

Just asking because I just purchased a 2002 NB automatic with a bad pump (from what I was told). Also, how can you tell if you're buying a 10mm pump or an 11mm pump? Are there specific part numbers on each?

thanks in advance.....

DougInFL said:

I was just seeing if anyone here has run a 10mm injection pump on their automatic?

Is there a major difference in power?

Just asking because I just purchased a 2002 NB with a bad pump (from what I was told). Also, how can you tell if you're buying a 10mm pump or an 11mm pump? Are there specific part numbers on each?

thanks in advance.....

Click to expand...

Q2-I would expect reduced performance with a 10mm on an automatic.
Q3- the item description (and the price!)

On a stock ALH:
The 11MM came with the automatic transmission
The 10 MM came with the 5Sp manual.
038-130-107-K = 10 MM pump
038-130-107-J = 11 MM pump

Hell it's probably better to buy an automatic TDI, and then convert to 5spd manual.

When shopping for my TDI an automatic was all that I could find. So caving to the desire to have a TDI, I accepted the lower economy, and decided to convert it one day in the future.

I was just browsing parts on IDparts.com, and was kinda glad I had a automatic... 11mm fuel pump was like $2100

toolongtospell said:

Hell it's probably better to buy an automatic TDI, and then convert to 5spd manual.

Click to expand...

Are you serious? That is like 10x the work compared to installing an 11mm pump.

I know I wouldn't want an automatic with a 10mm IP. That thing would be a pig.

Does the car still have the 11mm on it? I ask because most of the time the pump is fine and it's a misdiagnosis from people wanting to replace the part hoping the repair will work. These pumps are very robust...but nothing lasts forever.

Just something to consider.

Abacus said:

Does the car still have the 1mm on it? I ask because most of the time the pump is fine and it's a misdiagnosis from people wanting to replace the part hoping the repair will work. These pumps are very robust...but nothing lasts forever.

Just something to consider.

Click to expand...

ah... the occasional valid point

But the 11 mm autos had smaller Injectors. something like .152 vs .187. A free upgrade was get a .187 from a 5 spd that went to a larger inj.

Automatics have an 11mm IP with smaller nozzles.
Manuals have a 10mm IP with bigger nozles.

I'm not an expert, so I don't know for sure, but if you wanted to put a 10mm pump on an automatic you'd probably need/want to put on bigger nozzles. Then I'd think you'd need to have your ECU tuned for a 10mm IP w/ bigger nozzles.

Just my 2 cents....

Abacus said:

Does the car still have the 1mm on it? I ask because most of the time the pump is fine and it's a misdiagnosis from people wanting to replace the part hoping the repair will work. These pumps are very robust...but nothing lasts forever.

Just something to consider.

Click to expand...

I believe it is the stock 11mm pump.

I just bought the car today from a lady that always had it serviced at the dealer, then a local euro garage. Last month she had it in for an oil and filter change, and the euro guy said it had a fuel leak at the IP. His quote was 1,500-1,700 so she decided to sell it. I drove 40 miles to look at it, cranked the engine and no abnormal noises were heard. Cranked a bit slow from sitting the past month with also an older battery.

Tuesday I'm renting a dolly to bring it back here. Gonna remove the top TB cover and inspect for that leak. I always keep a spare fuel filter here for my Jetta, so going to be putting that on and Miti-Vac the lines. A new battery is next on the list.

Car has 128,000, TB, rollers, and water pump done at 108,000.

I'm hoping it might just be a simple fix, but was weighing out the options of a 10mm IP seeing that more of those are posted for sale.

Just re-seal the pump. It can be done in the car in a couple hours without pump removal.


Here are the parts
http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_Injection_Pump_Seal_Kit_p/pmp-fullkit.htm

Here is the QA top and bottom how-to
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2733762


I cant find the head seal how-to right now, but here is the kit from diesel geek with the extra long bolt.

http://www.dieselgeek.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=head+seal&Search.x=0&Search.y=0

Thanks for all the input. Been reading the links and watched the 7-part Youtube videos and it doesn't look that complex. Gonna order the Metalnerd tool and seal kit today.

I'll keep you posted on results.

Thanks again,
Doug

Not sure if you have one or not , but to do the QA seals you need a vag-com to set the IQ back to where it needs to be.

A vag-com is a must have tool for these cars anyways.

True it might be more work, but a 11mm pump costing $2,300.... 5spd swap looking at $1,500 in parts...

if you watch, some of our beloved vendors will occasionally have new 11mm pumps on sale for like $1500 or $1600, or get a salvage and send it off to DFIS

Check out runonbeer's video on resealing IPs, if you haven't yet.

In the middle of re-seal 11mm IP

I watched the Youtube videos that runonbeer's posted and have a question before proceeding.

The pump is 'on-cam' (furthest to the right), and when I back the bolts out from the pump head, all cam/spring pressure is relieved and I can only see 1/2 of the o-ring.

I feel if I remove the bolts any further, that small round shim may fall out an I'll be S.O.L.

Has anyone been in this same situation removing that pump head? If so, what's the proper solution?

thanks in advance.