'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap

Driver's side motor mount

The old sagging transfer case crossmember mount beside the new one



New transfer-case mount:



Here's the driver's side motor mount. Lots of pics for whatever they're worth to the next fool who does this



From underneath, with water pump inlet and outlet in background



Looking up



Driver's side motor mount from inside front tire, looking up at water pump and motor mount clearance


Driver's side motor mount looking up


Driver's side motor mount from underneath

Final update in pics, 1Z mounted

Here's the clearest shot of the custom hoses I will need to find for coolant entering and exiting the water pump. They'll run right into the driver's side motor mount.




Here's the clearance I ended up with at the power steering pump pulley and sway bar



Here's the angle of the transfer case mount, from the front

Not what I'd have liked, but it will work.

For reference, the triangle of bolt holes visible here

are the holes for the driver's side motor mount on the 1Z.

very nice....I see some plagiarism in the works for my truck

god those motor mounts are sooo much prettier than mine. you are doing some very nice work.
-Sam

Hey cummins...is the aftermarket trans mount still held to the crossmember by four 8mm bolts?....thinking of getting one and modifying it for my tacoma (tacoma is slightly different from the earlier trucks)

Wow those came out nice, very impressed. I think if/when i solid axle swap my truck, im going to have to redo my mounts. You're in the homestretch now!

Luke

Thanks guys! I'm pretty psyched myself. Plagiarize away Good artists imitate, great artists steal, someone said once.

jimbote, that t-case mount is still using those 8mm bolts. Matches right up. I worked it forward first, before torquing it down, to keep my already minimal clearance at the firewall. TrailGear had it to me very quickly and it's half the price of a new stock one - plus, it has a lifetime "no question's asked" warranty! Going to spot weld the 4 corners of that mount to keep an eye on stress over time.

Coolant lines and intercooler next...

Still wondering about bypassing the fuel filter as I route my return line. I'd like to just run it straight through a hardline straight back to the fuel tank from the injector pump. I'm using the stock 1Z TDI fuel filter from the B4 Passat, so I would just cap or loop the return valve there... Hmmmm...

Biodiesel Compatibility, Hoses and Fittings

Just good info...

Compatible Materials (B100 biodiesel):

Elastomers:
Teflon
Viton

Fluorinated Plastic (i.e., Fluorinated Polyethylene, Fluorinated Polypropylene)
Nylon
Polyethylene (HDPE)
Silicone

Behavior: These materials can be used to transmit and store Biodiesel, this includes “red plastic” gasoline cans, polyethylene barrels and large plastic totes.

Metals:
Aluminum
Steel

Other metal fittings get eaten slowly over time; their long term use with B100 should be avoided.

VERY nice work on those engine mounts!!
The rear mount is really nice too. Very impressive!

BTW, I was talking to a guy about his rock crawler, and he mentioned a cool idea:

To get more clearance (I know it's not a high priority w/ guys around here, but anyway...) He raised the whole engine/transmission into his frame about 2" and made a skid plate over the bottom.

Notice how the rear crossmember dangles down so far - it's always bugged me - it's just hanging down there waiting to get caught on some big rock.

I know a few people have added about 2" of body lift to get more clearance for the motor. The guy I was talking to did this AND raised his 22RE motor 2". He then used a straight crossmember to support the tranny.

I thought that was a nice clean solution.

VR6 water pump pulley... too big?

Thanks e*clipse

Well, yeah, I should run the fuel return line back through the filter. Just more very spendy fuel line to do so...

And then a strange thing - the VR6 water pump pulley doesn't fit (pulley at right, below). It's close, but it simply can't work where it is. A bit stumped at the moment... It fits fine on the water pump shaft, it just doesn't clear the harmonic balancer.


Capped manifold with a custom piece and Aaron returned the accelerator pedal in a bracket but not yet connected to the potentiometer (that'll hopefully happen tomorrow night). Connected the clutch thanks to new 24" line running under and away from the turbo, and got engine bay fuel line connected, save the return line. Using some very questionable clear "nylon" line from fuel filter to IP, which works temporarily and which will quickly be replaced as soon as I can find verifiable, clear, braided nylon. Why is that so difficult? Can't shake the idea that being able to see the fuel going to the IP makes life easier.

Anyone know PSI in the line between the fuel filter and the injector pump? (Edit: around 6psi.)

One good omen today - I saw my lumber rack poking through the snow bank for the first time...

My water pump pulley was awfully close. I wonder if some were different diameters?

My fuel lines are the reinforced blue colored nylon from McMaster. I have less than 3' of fuel line between the IP and Fuel filter. I used hard lines between the filter and fuel tank.

Because I'm not running a lift pump, I would guess there is suction between the fuel filter and IP on the input side. On the return side, I would assume very low pressure (flow restricted by the fuel filter).

-E*clipse

I remember shimming mine with a couple washers behind the pulley, i'll have a look to see how close mine is once i get home tonight.

Luke

I remember shimming mine with a couple washers behind the pulley, i'll have a look to see how close mine is once i get home tonight.

Luke

I will have to try that, Luke. I am wondering if the whole big alternator/PS pump/AC compressor bracket is on there properly - I may have loosened something when removing it all. I will look.

It snowed 4" overnight and will snow through out the day, jeesh. Huge Amgen Tour of CA bike road race likely cancelled.

Viton fuel line is on the way! Now to stare at cooling diagrams awhile, Goldguru's insights, and get to welding up intercooler and exhaust!

How do you get so many photos on here without filling your account allocation. I keep having to delete some to put more on. Are you just reducing the size of the images that much before upload? Sorry for the dumb question, I was just curious.

Photos, VR6 pulley/harmonic balancer conflict

I upload everything to my Photobucket account and just paste the direct link that it creates onto the tdiclub message page. Easy.

I have relatively little saved to the tdiclub picture gallery, as it's not the most accessible or searchable.

Still working on the pulley/harmonic balancer conflict. Is my new aftermarket HB a slightly different diameter? Check existing against the new water pump I guess I should install now? Consider sanding it down a fraction of a mm in diameter? etc...

What oil filter mount are you using? Does it have an outlet for the turbo oil feed? How about pressure sensors?

For reference, the triangle of bolt holes visible here

are the holes for the driver's side motor mount on the 1Z.

Click to expand...

I think I've figured out a nice system using this oil filter mount combined with a simple spin on adapter:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1013/

BTW, If you'd like, I could make the pulley a bit smaller on my lathe.

JayTee013 said:

How do you get so many photos on here without filling your account allocation. I keep having to delete some to put more on. Are you just reducing the size of the images that much before upload? Sorry for the dumb question, I was just curious.

Click to expand...

I also use photobucket and copy/paste a direct link to the thread...works great and you don't have to tinker with the hard to access forum gallery

Oil filter stand and lathing

e*clipse, I am using an AEB oil filter stand that LukeWilson mailed me from Canadia Like you and jimbote, he's got a lotta beers comin.' It works beautifully, greatly easing driver's side motor mount access. It has a turbo oil feed that fit and an oil pressure sensor, too. I capped an "extra" outlet on it that I can maybe use for my own mechanical gauge in the future....

"http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1013/"

That's a nice option - I can see that being appropriate for the IFS Yotas, where there is less space to work.

Lathe option for that pulley is one I'm considering. I am unsure of how much I could appropriately reduce the size of the thing via lathing away some metal. I already resurfaced it like crazy, as it too is from Canadia and was pretty rusty.

Did Canadian VR6s use a different diameter pulley?

Thunderbird Fan

"Here is the best cooling fan solution I could come up with. The fan is from a late model Ford Thunderbird and fits the Toyota Radiator perfectly. According to various folks, the fan is one of the best air movers available.



If you look closely at the pic, I've made a few mods: The original mounting tabs are replaced with small sheetmetal tabs and there is a notch for the upper intercooler pipe. (In this view the fan is upside down)

This shot shows the fan fitment on the passenger side:


The fan from the driver's side:


Regarding wiring the fan, I first tried to use the VW fan controller. I've decided to change this to a suggestion found on the Pirate board:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8171423

The fan has an startup load of approximately 80 amps !! The VW wires looked severely undersized for that load and it appears that the low speed circuit runs directly through the sensor. This also has me questioning the reliability of the fan controller for this application. The controller is also used to control parts of the AC system, which I am deleting.

The PB thread has a LOT of good ideas:
1) There are some good links for connectors, relays and fuses.
2) The system uses a VW Two speed fan controller!
3) The 22mm X 1.5 thread is commonly found on a number of spindle nuts, making a inexpensive "bung" for the radiator plumbing.
4) A wiring diagram showing an automatic system with manual override is shown.[/QUOTE]

So e*clipse, might you recall the year T-bird you harvested this from?

Edit - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-620-118/Application/?prefilter=1
?

Are you keeping the ac in your truck?

Thanks for the tip on the oil filter mount. Thank you Luke for figuring this out.
BTW, the AEB was a turbo'd 1.8 L engine found only on the Passat. The AWM may also fit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_North_American_Volkswagen_engines#1.8_T

The radiator fan came out of a mid-90's T-bird. (10th generation)
Here's a pic:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Thunderbird

If I remember, there were also some Taurus, Cougar or other models of that year that had a similar fan.

Regarding the pulley, measure the wall thickness of the pulley and how far it needs to be offset. It looks like shaving it should work.

Re. AC & AEB Oil Stand PN

imtryin said:

Are you keeping the ac in your truck?

Click to expand...

imtryin, no - gone. Hence the different sized v-belt and serp belt mentioned earlier in this thread (both of which BoraParts substituted in their Oldpoopie kit for me ).

PN for the oil stand off the AEB, which I'm using/loving
050 115 417

cumminsfromthecold said:

Wiring loom bracket got modified and then welded in place:

You can see that it comes out about as far as the oil sensor and coolant flange.

Click to expand...

Question on the coolant flange, to help my understanding

You're routing the coolant flange towards the "front" (from the donor vehicle perspective) because you're going directly to the water pump and you've deleted the EGR cooler, right?

If I'm planning to retain all emissions stuff including the EGR, I should plan to route that flange towards the back where the stock tube to the EGR cooler runs, right?

Thanks,
Mark

"You're routing the coolant flange towards the "front" (from the donor vehicle perspective)..."

Yes.

"...because you're going directly to the water pump..."

Yep.


"...and you've deleted the EGR cooler, right?"

You got it.

"If I'm planning to retain all emissions stuff including the EGR, I should plan to route that flange towards the back where the stock tube to the EGR cooler runs, right?"

Yes. One problem you may encounter is the firewall proximity. I don't recall if you're moving the engine and transmission forward or not. You can design in those assurances if so. Also, be aware of the turbo and exhaust location - heat can be an issue.

cumminsfromthecold said:

"You're routing the coolant flange towards the "front" (from the donor vehicle perspective)..."

Yes.

"...because you're going directly to the water pump..."

Yep.


"...and you've deleted the EGR cooler, right?"

You got it.

"If I'm planning to retain all emissions stuff including the EGR, I should plan to route that flange towards the back where the stock tube to the EGR cooler runs, right?"

Yes. One problem you may encounter is the firewall proximity. I don't recall if you're moving the engine and transmission forward or not. You can design in those assurances if so. Also, be aware of the turbo and exhaust location - heat can be an issue.

Click to expand...

Thanks much! My conversion is a VW Bus, not a Toyota Truck, but the clearance issues are very similar. You've helped me better understand the plumbing and also given me a couple more things to think about too

Thanks again,

Mark

Just curious, are you the guy I talked to in the backcountry parking lot in Truckee this winter? I had the Red AHU TDI Vanagon . I think the name was Ronnie. Nice work either way. I'm in Carnelian Bay.

For the waterpump pulley you can order 028121031E for $26 from www.1stvwparts.com and it will work.

Its the no a/c pulley intended for the AZZ/1Z/AHU

here is the picture from impex which has it listed for $40:
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-pulley_40895.html



http://autopartmaster.com/en/?actio...ded_=VOLKSWAGEN Jetta syn./Golf Var.syn. 1996

Ginster17 said:

Just curious, are you the guy I talked to in the backcountry parking lot in Truckee this winter? I had the Red AHU TDI Vanagon . I think the name was Ronnie. Nice work either way. I'm in Carnelian Bay.

Click to expand...

Hey Ginster17, yep that's me. Thanks! Your MidWestfalia is bad ass. I've had other folks in town ask me if I've seen it. We gotta sit down and have a beer sometime. There's a guy here in town making a secret syncro TDI who I wanna talk with, too.

G60ing, thanks for that info. That PN and pulley (028 121 031 E) is indeed different than mine (which is 021-121-031A). I will be pinning down some dimensions here soon, just to see what the real differences are. Lathing may or may not work - it will be close. Thanks very much.

The proximity is dang close:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1674854&postcount=49

The 028 121 031 E is about an inch smaller in diameter and a little narrower.