03 TDI lots done no MPG!

I was just reading in another thread, 36 MPG.
I was originally getting 42 and had hoped for 45!
Here is what all I've done.
I have 245k mileage.
I had some smoke on start up so I pulled the head and replace the valve guides and all. I did get it timed.
Then did the v6 clutch set up.
Replaced the nozzles as well as did the stage 2 tune.
The prev owner had the egr cooler deleted and I did the race pipe as well.
Was haing some over heating issues and found one of the cooling fans bad.
So I replaced the fan as well as the therm switch in radiator.
Had it running fair but it still would go into limp mode if I got on it.
Found the turbo to be bad and did the upgrade.
But still having over heating issue, when ever I get on it! And my MPG is still at 36mpg!
I have normal power till about 2500rpm then it rips, and begins to run hot!
Any ideas?

What motor is in your car?
Where is your fuel set(check with vagcom/vcds) when you can.

1.9 TDI
I have no idea, Andrew Rodriguez did my stage 2 tune.
I sent in my ECU.

Assuming the timing belt and all related components have been done recently? Water pump is working correctly? Verified by checking that little tube that goes in the back of the resivoir . Water should be flowing into the resivoir through that tube when the engine is running. That leaves the Thermostat. The thermostat can also effect your fuel mileage. Change it and the flange.

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=653

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=29_109&products_id=652

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KCCats said:

1.9 TDI
I have no idea, Andrew Rodriguez did my stage 2 tune.
I sent in my ECU.

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If you have a bad thermostat or coolant temp sensor, your mpg's will go down. Does your coolant temp gauge peg at 190 degree?

Is your injection timing in spec?

What is the IQ of your nozzles?

How much black smoke comes out of the black when you get down on it?

Therm was changed with the water pump about 20k ago, guess I'll replace it!
Timing is set dead in the middle with the cable and lap top.
Nozzles were updated to the ones above the 520's.
Temp gauge normally will come up to 190 and hold, till I get on the power then it will slowly go all the way to the red!

Uh oh head gasket! That is precisely how my 2002 told me it needed a head gasket. Oh it gave me hints as I would loose a little coolant overnight especially when it was cold. DCell and I were doing a diagnostic on the no law enforcement roads by his place and about the 4th time he punched (26 psi boost) the temperature spiked; let off it was fine, do it again spike, again spike, again blew the pressure relief valve on the the expansion tank.

Is there black residiue in your expansion tank?

I just did the head gasket! Great! Yeah I did see a little oil in res, Thought it was just left over from doing the head gasket!
I guess I'll do studs this time instead of bolts!

If you want mpg, your options for tunes are the eco-tune or a stage 1, both by malone.
As for the overheat, don't rule out a cracked head, especially since you replaced the gasket already.

Well I wasn't over heating, but was loosing some coolant.
And it had a lot of smoke every time you started it.
The guides were all bad.
But I did also have it magnafluxed and it checked out!

I was told I could improve my mpg with the stage 2.

Start with the basics:
1. Replace the engine temp sensor PLEASE use the OE VW sensor. The aftermarket version s tend to read low and send a errant temp signal the ECU.
2. Replace the thermostat. As these unit age the springs become weak and the thermostat will crack open too early.
3. Wheel Alignment
4. Buy some good quality tires. Inexpensive (cheep) tire get real expensive at the fuel pump.
5. Tire pressure: 34 to 36 PSI at all four corners
6. Remove roof rack (if installed)

The engine temp sensor?
Is that on the back end of the head, facing the fire wall?

Etc

KCCats said:

The engine temp sensor?
Is that on the back end of the head, facing the fire wall?

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Correct, the Eng Temp Sensor (ETS) is located on the rear side of the coolant flange.
There are a few "How Tos" here on the forums.
Here is a link to one of the preferred vendors:
http://www.metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=85&categoryId=55

All stock, that car should get 48MPG US easy.
With what you're getting you've got bigger issues than tire pressures, roof racks, and thermostats.

Before I started all this the best I got was 42!

I read on here that it is possible to get better MPG with the studs on an improved motor?
Upgraded turbo, upgraded nozzles, EGR Delete, Muffler Delete and stage 2 Malone Tune and the clutch upgrade would be classified as an improved motor right?
About the only things left would be the studs and the exhaust?
Is the 3" complete worth it? Will a resonator keep it fairly quiet?

KCCats said:

I read on here that it is possible to get better MPG with the studs on an improved motor?
Upgraded turbo, upgraded nozzles, EGR Delete, Muffler Delete and stage 2 Malone Tune and the clutch upgrade would be classified as an improved motor right?
About the only things left would be the studs and the exhaust?
Is the 3" complete worth it? Will a resonator keep it fairly quiet?

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You're going about this wrong. None of those mods will improve efficiency.

The 03 wagon has the ALH engine in it. How are they when it comes to Timing? I'm familiar with the PD BEW and BRM. Being 1 degree off on timing can be the difference between 35mpg and 45mpg!

Well according to what the computer showed, it took me a few tries but got it spot on?

KCCats said:

Well according to what the computer showed, it took me a few tries but got it spot on?

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Have you adjusted the Injection Quantity?

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/injection-quantity-adjustment-fuel-pump-hammer-mod/

What is your timing set at?

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html

Didn't mess with the fuel, I assume that was done with the stage 2 tune?

Timing was right on the blue line!

fossill said:

All stock, that car should get 48MPG US easy.
With what you're getting you've got bigger issues than tire pressures, roof racks, and thermostats.

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I agree...

I just finishing tuning up my 03 TDI Golf and put it on the road at the first of April. Car is all stock, with freshly cleaned intake, new filters, and new turbo. I'm getting over 50mpg without even really trying.

It still needs and alignment, and I have to do something with the rust spots...they cause wind drag of course...lol.

Rem

Is this an auto or manual?

It is a 5 sp, it has had the wheels aligned, new tires set at 40psi.
But it never got any better than 42!
But I pass it off as it is a Wagon and I do run 75mph on the highway, and 60-65 on side roads.

KCCats said:

It is a 5 sp, it has had the wheels aligned, new tires set at 40psi.
But it never got any better than 42!
But I pass it off as it is a Wagon and I do run 75mph on the highway, and 60-65 on side roads.

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I know it will be hard with your mods. Can you try driving the speed limit for one tank?

That basically is the speed limit!

KCCats said:

That basically is the speed limit!

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I know people that have gained 3 mpg in a gas car just by going 55 mph instead of 60 mph.

Tune does not change your injection quantity, it still needs to be adjusted manually. Check it with VCDS as poormanq45 suggested. Also I would adjust the timing closer to 60 on the graph, but that shouldn't make a huge difference.

Were your injectors pop tested and calibrated? Or did you just swap out the nozzles yourself? What brand of nozzles did you use?

Fuel filter changed?

After driving a ways, stop and check the wheels, are any of them hot? Could there be a caliper sticking?

EGR delete in my experience will not help your MPG, in colder weather it can actually hurt your fuel economy.

On my TDI with over 600k miles I still have the original exhaust, never upgraded it. I average 46MPG with it, so 3" exhaust or muffler delete is not going to give you big MPG gains.

Also you really only need head studs if you go for a hybrid turbo. Head bolts will work just fine, if tightened properly using the 4 different tightening stages as outlined in the manual.


In summary:
1. Check and set injection quantity
2. Injectors - pop tested? What brand?
3. Fuel filter?
4. Check to see if a caliper is sticking.
5. No more mods needed.
6. Follow through with the advice already given (new thermostat, new coolant temp sensor & drive under 70 MPH for one tank with strictly fuel economy in mind, etc.)


These are just some quick ideas that I thought of. Hopefully some of them help.

KCCats said:

It is a 5 sp.

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check your brake cables

dragging brake will knock 10mpg off easy

Well I got that tester to check if combustion is getting into the coolant and yep!
So my question is will just replacing the bolts with studs going to fix it or should I do the head gasket as well?

Head gasket as well