Lower control arm - anti-seize
- Thread starter CRD4me
- Start date
wonneber
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
- Location
- Monroe, NY, USA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
I don't think its a good idea to use it on TTY bolts.
bobbiemartin
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2012
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
- TDI
- 2010 Tiguan TDI 4Motion, Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD
Are you installing new bolts? If reusing the bolt, the torque & rotation specs are meaningless.
My guess - and that is all it is - would be to reduce the torque value and keep the 1/4 turn. The anti seize will reduce the friction so would require a lower torque value to reach the same clamping force. The rotation value after that should remain the same regardless of lubricant. This chart may help.
If you are not using a new genuine VW bolt, haven't chased the threads with the proper chasing tap, are not using a good quality and recently calibrated torque wrench with the exact lubricant VW recommends including under the bolt head, it probably doesn't make that much difference. My guess is more than one of these cars is running around with a reused TTY bolt installed good 'n tight with no issues. Yes you should always replace them, but I bet more mechanics reuse TTY bolts than replace. And once it has been torqued and rotated (stretched), the original tightening specs are no longer applicable.
eddieleephd
Top Post Dawg
^^Right there with him for the most part^^
I always use antiseize when dealing with undercarriage bolts.
I have learned to apply antiseize and then wipe with a rag to leave a coating rather than loading it up with a bunch.
Wiping the bolt so there's a coating allows for it to work, but, not over lubricate it.
I tend to use the torque spec supplied and a little more, maybe an 1/8th turn to stretch the bolt.
Many of the torque specs are off anyhow and my mechanics thought for many of them is to torque and leave, especially with engine mount bolts that like to strip the brackets after the third, or fourth, time.
I always use antiseize when dealing with undercarriage bolts.
I have learned to apply antiseize and then wipe with a rag to leave a coating rather than loading it up with a bunch.
Wiping the bolt so there's a coating allows for it to work, but, not over lubricate it.
I tend to use the torque spec supplied and a little more, maybe an 1/8th turn to stretch the bolt.
Many of the torque specs are off anyhow and my mechanics thought for many of them is to torque and leave, especially with engine mount bolts that like to strip the brackets after the third, or fourth, time.
Thanks guys for sharing your experiences.
In my case I'll be using new bolts for the control arms.
For the two main ones, I've decided to use anti-seize on both of them.
Instead of applying 52 ft-lbs + 1/4, I've went on the conservative side, less 10% of torque, i.e 47 ft-lbs.
...I've torque them down when the vehicle is on ramp (ground). I can tell you that, there is not alot of room to do this
In my case I'll be using new bolts for the control arms.
For the two main ones, I've decided to use anti-seize on both of them.
Instead of applying 52 ft-lbs + 1/4, I've went on the conservative side, less 10% of torque, i.e 47 ft-lbs.
...I've torque them down when the vehicle is on ramp (ground). I can tell you that, there is not alot of room to do this