ARP2000 ALH Head Stud Install (trying to stop a coolant leak)

DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
So as some of you may be aware based on my other posts, I have a coolant leak. I figure there's a good chance that it can be fixed simply by swapping my existing head bolts for the new ARP2000 set because:

  • It only leaks under high boost/high RPM situations. If I drive it real easy, it won't leak. That leads me to believe that the head gasket is in good enough condition to be fine if it was torqued down enough.
  • When I bought the car, the owner told me it had a "new head gasket" and "ARP head bolts". The car had a bad actuator, and only made half as much boost as it should have (til I fixed it, when it started leaking) That leads me to believe the bolts may have never been torqued down as much as they should, but he never saw a problem because the low boost levels never required the bolts to be torqued properly to not leak. Not to mention, the old (chrome-moly) ARP bolts are well-known (based on what I've read) for being mediocre for TDIs. Also the fact that the head gasket was recently replaced adds to my idea that it's probably in okay condition.
  • Kerma TDI advertises the ARP2000 head stud kit can fix a leaky head gasket situation.
  • It's been leaking for months, and has been getting worse a little at a time. This might not immediately sound like a good thing, but the way I see it - if my head gasket was fractured or damaged, my leak would come on all at once and would stay the same. In my case, however, it started very small and has gotten worse over time, leading me to believe that my bolts are stretching, loosening, or something like that, which can be fixed by replacement.

Some people say this will probably work, some say it might work, some say there's no way it will work. This thread will serve as my experience for future drivers with leaky head gaskets.

And worst case scenario, it doesn't fix it - but the studs can be re-used when I do a full head gasket job - so no money wasted.

--------------------------

So I ordered the studs. I also ordered a 12mm triple-square bit from Metalnerd, and a 14mm 1/2" drive socket for the ARP nuts.



My valve cover bolts were overtightened, and removal was a *****. All but one stripped the hex into a round. I ordered a new set from Metal Man Parts, and continued when they came in. I was able to remove the stripped bolts by hammering a large torx into the soft aluminum heads of the bolts.


New and Old valve cover bolts


Valve cover removed


Head Studs, nuts, and washers coated with ARP high torque lubricant. I did not lubricate the lower half of the threads on the studs (the threads that go into the block), because the instructions said to insert the studs into the block before the instructions say to apply the lube. That, and the studs bottom out in the block, so they don't need lube because they won't move when torquing. I found that the included pack had just enough to liberally coat everything that needed to be. I wasn't worried about using too much cause I figure it'll just get squeezed out.

I started by removing the bolt labeled "1" on the included ARP diagram, which is the middle-rear bolt. I had no problem breaking the bolt loose with just my ratchet, so I'm guessing they really were not torqued down as much as they should have been. There's a little suction sound when an old bolt is removed.

I then inserted one of my lubed studs and screwed it in. There is slight resistance as air is being pressurized below the stud. I could hear it slowly bubbling out as I continued. The slight resistance disappears once the pressure equalizes. It's obvious when the stud bottoms out, so I just snug it up with a hex key (per instructions). Then on with the washer and nut. Torqued it down to 80 ft-lbs.

I continued in the order specified on the ARP paperwork, working from the middle outward, one at a time. Once I finished stud #10, I tightened them down to 100 ft-lbs in the same order, waited a few minutes, then tightened down to 125 ft-lbs, per instructions.


This is what a finished, torqued ARP head stud looks like. The gray goop is the excess ARP lube.

I went to dinner and, all told, waited around about 2 hours, then torqued each nut to 125 ft-lbs again. Most nuts got NO additional rotation. 2 or 3 of them got just a few degrees.


Cleaned up the surface where the valve cover gasket sits (also cleaned the valve cover gasket).


All done! Note the clean new valve cover bolts in place.


New valve cover bolt

Finally, I topped up the coolant, oil, and washer fluid, and re-adjusted my turbo actuator to OEM spec. (I had lengthened it beyond OEM spec to isolate an overboost issue, but the only change was the car was sluggish - still overboosted. I have installed a dawes device to last me until i figure out the real issue)

The car seems fine - it's quieter for sure, but that could be due to lots of things - the actuator, most likely.

I drove it around real easy for the rest of the day, 2 complete warm-up/cooldown cycles. Tomorrow I'll do it again, and at the end of the day, pull the valve cover again and do a final 125 ft-lb torque check. THEN, I will really get on it to test if I can make it leak. Fingers crossed. I'll update tomorrow!

If everything turns out okay, I'll run a can of diesel purge through it and change the oil and that will be it!
 
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DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
Thank God this thread was saved - I did NOT want to have to type it again after the crash! :)

Anyway, I really stomped on it yesterday and did not get any immediate leakage. This morning (once it had cooled down completely), I opened the expansion tank cap and got only a very tiny hiss instead of a big loud one like I did before the swap. That's definitely a good sign.

Right now I have the valve cover pulled again and I'll wait until late to ensure it's bone cold, and will re-torque to 125 a final time - I will report in if I get any additional rotation.

So far so good. We'll see how much coolant I have after a week.
 

DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
Okay, once the car was as cold as it could get, I re-tightened the nuts. I got an additional few degrees of rotation on each nut - seemed to be the same on each - which to me, says that it was a good idea to drive the car a bit and then re-torque, considering I didn't get ANY additional rotation after I torqued to 125 the first time and waited a few hours before re-torquing.

Put the valve cover back on and ran a can of diesel purge through it. The car has 140,000 miles and has never had this done, but I did not notice any differences after.



Again, I will update again after a week or so with any new findings.
 

DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
New update: It's been a week, and I just got home from doing an italian tuneup. Hasn't leaked a drop of coolant since I swapped the studs. My assessment: total success. I would recommend anyone with a leaky head gasket try this first - even if it's been leaking for a while.
 

Joe TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Location
Neversink, NY
TDI
03, 00, 04 MK4 sedans.... 02 MK4 Wagon
I'm glad it worked for you..... I tried the same thing and it was fail.... I lost significantly less coolant but it still leaked... head gasket was shot... had to replace.... threw in a colt stage 2 cam and new lifters while I was in there. No more coolant leak.

Definitely worth trying the head stud kit first before you remove the head and change the gasket.
 

turbocharged798

Veteran Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Location
Ellenville, NY
TDI
99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
Wow, that engine has some serious sludge going on. My ALH has double that milage and looks 10X better inside.....

Edit: here's a pic at 250K:
 
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TDikook

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 15, 2003
Location
Biloxi, Ms
TDI
'06 Golf Anthracite Blue
Phil, not everyone cleans their engine bay so that it is shiny. only you do,:p

but I do agree about inside the engine.. do you you synthetic? it should be almost shiny inside.
 

davidm2232

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Location
Gloversville, NY (upstate)
TDI
92 4Runner-ALH Swap In Progress
Other success stories?

I also have a pressurized coolant tank issue on my 2003 jetta. I think it is the head gasket but it was recently replaced. Has anyone else had success with this? I really don't want to pull the head on this car. i have only had it a few weeks. I love this car but it is already costing me more than my 89 nissan pickup.
 

TDikook

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 15, 2003
Location
Biloxi, Ms
TDI
'06 Golf Anthracite Blue
wow, if your profile is right, and you are only getting 32.8 mpg with an '03. you have other issues. you should be getting mid to high 40's easily...
 

DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
Yes, I use Rotella T synthetic. Granted I was due for an oil change while this work was being done. My plan was to swap the studs, run a can of diesel-purge, and change the oil (which I did).

But yeah, mine looks like a horror show compared to 798's. Granted who knows what the PO did.

Still no leakage though!
 

dieselfuel

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Location
ohio
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Dave,

I thought guys were replacing the bolts in reverse order: 10, 9, 8, 7.....

But you replaced them in the normal order?: 1,2,3,4,5,6......

Since the head would be tightened from the center out towards the ends, I'd think you'd start at the ends and work toward the center (reverse order).

TIA for you reply,
 

DaveLinger

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
I saw a thread in which the guy replaced the bolts in reverse order, but I don't know why you would want to do that - so yes, I replaced them in the normal order. Starting at the middle and going out.
 

dieselfuel

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Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Location
ohio
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Keep us informed of any problems. I do not currently have any coolant leaking, but I'm planning a few mods and want a little insurance.

Thanks,
 

davidm2232

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Location
Gloversville, NY (upstate)
TDI
92 4Runner-ALH Swap In Progress
wow, if your profile is right, and you are only getting 32.8 mpg with an '03. you have other issues. you should be getting mid to high 40's easily...
it is an automatic and it was only a 50 mile run. i just got the car so it will take a few fill ups to get an accurate number. i think my next tank was a bit better, and i ran it pretty hard. i'll post when i do the math for my last fill up. still beats 18 mpg of my 89 pickup
 

DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
Over a month since I swapped the studs and my coolant level is still sitting right on the max line. I definitely consider it a success.
 

dieselfuel

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Location
ohio
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Dave,

That's great news. I'm in the process of finishing up my ARP stud install. I'm waiting another hour, then I'm going back out to check the torque again @ 125 ft/lbs.

I had one valve cover bolt strip. I took a chisle and cut a slot into it. Then I attached a vise grip to the chisle and un-screwed the bolt. That took the most time, lol!
 

Keebler145

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Location
Niles, Ohio
TDI
Jetta MKIV 2000, 2003, and MKV 2006 PD DSG
Once I torqued mine to 125ft-lbs they didn't loosen at all. I did go back and check them a day or so after doing it and none of them moved. I wonder if rechecking them is really necessary?
 

dieselfuel

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Location
ohio
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Keebler,

I was wondering the same thing. I don't think I'm going to check them anytime soon.

ARP never mentioned anything about re-checking them.

I torqued them to 90 ft/lbs in reverse order (replacing one at a time). Then, in proper order, I torqued to 125 ft/lbs. After setting for three hours, I re-torqued the nuts in proper order. I got a little bit more out of them, but not much.
 

Later

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Location
New York City Area
TDI
1999.5 Jetta IV, 2010 TDI Cup White
Dave, thanks for this post, I have the same problem and was going crazy looking for leaks/solutions. I ordered the ARP stud kit, triple square, new valve cover bolts and am stoked to get this done. I have been keeping 3 liters of Pentafrost/water mix to keep hydrated. Thanks for sharing your experience ! I should receive most of the parts/tool towards the end of the week and will post my results as well - fingers crossed!
 

Later

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Location
New York City Area
TDI
1999.5 Jetta IV, 2010 TDI Cup White
Gents, I completed the job this week-end and it took about 2 hours once I had all the tools and parts lined up. I was lucky that the cover bolts came off without a problem. The head studs came out easier that I thought so I doubt they were at 125 ft/lbs. I hadn't realized I needed a "12 point" 14 mm socket so I just wanted to point that out to others - you also need a 5 mm hex wrench to put in the ARP studs. The reason I don't think that the stock head studs were at 125 ft/lbs is because it took quite a bit of effort to get to 125 ft/lbs with the new studs. I followed the same pattern as on the ARP guide and torqued each one initially to 90 ft/lbs then did a second pass (again using the ARP order) at 110 ft/lbs and then a last pass at 125 ft/lbs. I was only able to do a short test drive so I don't know if this has solved the coolant leak problem yet but I have to go on a road trip on Saturday and will find out then and keep you all posted.
 

Wayne64SS

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Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Location
here
TDI
none
if you guys are doing this and getting movement again after torqueing the studs the first time it's because they are not fully bottomed out in the block all the way. what happens is air gets trapped and the stud will tighten up and feel bottomed but it really isn't. You should thread the studs into the block and let them sit awhile, then go back and retighten with the allen key, i guarantee they will move a little once all the air is out. i like to let them sit 10-15 minutes before tightening. Also since everyone is doing this with the head on, make sure you are cleaning out the thread holes so no oil and dirt is down there.
 

dieselfuel

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Location
ohio
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI
Later,

If it were me, I'd run that car hard before Saturday's trip, to make sure everything's o.k.

(I have a feeling, you'll be alright. Good luck!)
 

DaveLinger

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Location
Morgantown, WV
TDI
2001 Golf TDI
My studs were definitely bottomed out before I started torquing. It was easy to tell when the studs bottomed out - on some I had to screw the stud in a while, wait for the air to escape, screw it in some more - but I definitely hit metal on each one before I torqued - I'm assuming the extra couple degrees I got in rotation on my later re-torque could be attributed to the nuts settling/adjusting.
 

Later

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Location
New York City Area
TDI
1999.5 Jetta IV, 2010 TDI Cup White
Thanks for the heads up (pun intended) - I'll pull the covers off and check the tourque settings, its raining today, I'll get to them tomorrow evening and report back
 

Later

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Location
New York City Area
TDI
1999.5 Jetta IV, 2010 TDI Cup White
Follow up after around 1000 miles : still buring some coolant at moderate boost but only about an inch from the reservoir after a long trip (600 miles) versus the whole reservoir after 100 miles. My most recent trip was 120 miles round trip over very hilly highways with four guys and golf clubs and it burned half the reservoir. I'm making plans to change the head gasket in the summer, so this fix is effective in the sense that I have the luxury of time to use my trusted mechanic that does good work and I can reuse the ARP studs as well. I'll have to print this thread out so he can know the correct way to do it!
 
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