Fix for weeping EGR valve

After over 900 miles of driving, with the ECM EGR setting at factory value (32768), I've tested this. No weeping so far. I can't guaranty that it will last 100,000 miles but in the interest of getting this information to you before that test completes, I'm posting it a wee bit early.

I disassembled my weepy EGR valve that blew oil onto my valve cover.


By carefully prying around the edge of the "cap" I removed it and the spring. Further disassembly is not required. Note that I removed the fragile vacuum actuator so it didn't get broken during this cap r/r procedure (see below for how to do that). Tools required: vise to hold the assembly, sturdy screwdriver, sturdy punch (side used as a fulcrum at times).

Once the cap is off, I used brake parts cleaner to clean out traces of oil and soot from along the shaft of the valve (not pictured). Just spray a little on shaft area and work the valve until clean. Let dry.

Next I propped the diaphram away from the body of the assembly, held in the vise so the shaft was vertical. Then I applied Permatex Flowable Silicone sealant around the shaft/body junction under the diaphram.


Let it set up for a day. Then worked the valve manually to make sure it moved.

Next I inverted the assembly and applied the sealant around the shaft inside the intake passage and let it set up for a day. (Package says fully cured in 24 hours.) After the day I manually worked the valve to make sure it moved.

Clamped the assembly in the vise with spring in and cap on and used a hand vacuum to ensure the valve would move when vacuum is applied. Then using a punch and hammer I cinched the cap back onto the body.

Put the vacuum actuator back on and put the valve back in the car. So far no oil and no EGR fault codes.

In case you're wondering, the temperature range of the sealant is -85F to +450F. That is good enough for this application.

Removal of vacuum actuator

Once you have the assembly out of the car, the best way to remove the actuator without breaking it is...

1) clamp assembly gently in a vise so you have free hand(s) to work with
2) remove the screws holding the actuator to the body
3) gently pry the arm off the anti-shudder valve shaft, applying pressure where the two connect, and in a direction so that the tip of the shaft will pass through the "slot" along the arm.

Do not try to pull the arm straight off the shaft, nor push it straight on during reassembly.

Assembly is the reverse of removal.

Heating the plastic arm of the ASV with a hair dryer or heat gun can make its removal 'safer'.

-J

MoGolf, them there is the type of of fixes I like!!!!

Nice write-up MOGolf! I'm tempted to try the fix on my A3's weeping EGR, although it's not bad enough to be a major annoyance. Not quite as easy to get at the assembly on the A3 because of the fact that it's integral to the intake manifold.

Looks like a nice project to attack should I pick up a spare "leaky" manifold.

status report: over a month later and at least 2K miles it is still dry on the outside.

I keep looking at how difficult it looks to get that egr out of my A3 intake and I get a little unsure...found an intake that I may get and upon which I may try this, although I suspect I will do evil things to the cap while trying to get it unclamped. The sealant...I guess since the boost pressure pushes the oil out the weep hole, and there is no oil, that the boost must be sealed in, also? I have the distinct feeling I am hearing boost fluttering coming out of the weep hole when I get my boost pressure up past 12.

Assembly is the reverse of removal.

Click to expand...

At least you didn't say, "See figure 14-2 for assembly"

Is this a possible cure for the fault code "EGR - excessive flow"? What does that mean anyway?

STRANGETDI said:

Is this a possible cure for the fault code "EGR - excessive flow"? What does that mean anyway?

Click to expand...

Not necessarily. You might have a sticking N18 (pressure converter for EGR).

Rickstah said:

I keep looking at how difficult it looks to get that egr out of my A3 intake and I get a little unsure...found an intake that I may get and upon which I may try this, although I suspect I will do evil things to the cap while trying to get it unclamped. The sealant...I guess since the boost pressure pushes the oil out the weep hole, and there is no oil, that the boost must be sealed in, also? I have the distinct feeling I am hearing boost fluttering coming out of the weep hole when I get my boost pressure up past 12.

Click to expand...

For the A3 you have the bulk of the entire intake manifold to deal with instead of the small EGR valve assembly. The procedure would be the same. One might just clean out the stem area as best you can, then just apply the sealant only from inside the intake passage. Since the sealant will flow down (law of gravity), position the intake in a vise with the 'cap' down and apply sealant to stem area inside the intake.

I'm over 3K now with no change.

I've been doing some vacuum line research and it appears that there is an intake manifold made for the A3's and B4's that has the EGR as a bolt on! the part numbers are as follows (and avaliable from impex)

Intake Manifold: 028129711N
EGR valve: 028131501E

I dont know if these will work or not, but these are the parts listed in ETKA for the AHU/1Z engine.

JetPuf said:

I've been doing some vacuum line research and it appears that there is an intake manifold made for the A3's and B4's that has the EGR as a bolt on! the part numbers are as follows (and avaliable from impex)

Intake Manifold: 028129711N
EGR valve: 028131501E

I dont know if these will work or not, but these are the parts listed in ETKA for the AHU/1Z engine.

Click to expand...

Now THAT is interesting! On the other hand, Robbie ordered an A3 intake from Impex for me and when it showed up that number sourced to an Audio gasser intake...this calls for more research

Holy moly...300 for the egr and 359 for the intake...I'll need a line of credit! no pic on the intake though...will call them and see

Here's the two ETKA images I'm refering to...

and

that looks a little strange, where that crankcase vent tube comes up under the egr valve? Or is that something else?

that's the exhaust gas tube, number 3 right?

hey don't ask me...I just got a 24" monitor and I still can't tell, snicker...guess the bottom line here is it looks much diff than mine right now...if I could get this salvage yard to come off 125 bucks for an oem intake with a leaky weep hole I could get on with the project!

update?

How's this fix holding up?

Still holding up at 15K miles.

Here we are at about 23K miles and today I got a fault code for excessive EGR. I've been running it with stock EGR duty cycle value. I hooked up my Mityvac directly to the EGR valve and it wouldn't hold a vacuum nor move the valve. The diaphram may have failed or developed a leak around the edge where I uncrimped/recrimped. Odd that the fault is for excessive EGR, when it isn't opening the valve to allow any EGR.

I'll dig into this later in the week. For now, EGR duty cycle value is "dialed back".

See, I KNEW this would never last

Wish I had your talent for repairs like that...now if only Robbie didn't work 24 hours a day he could send the intake...sigh...my car smells like Simple Green constantly these days, cleaning up after I put some boost through the motor.

There is still no oil sprayed on the valve cover. The sealing still worked. I swapped out the valve but haven't dissected it yet.

I waved money in front of Robbie and he is shipping my solution

Dangit...I went to have the intake either ceramic-coated or powder-coated and they said it would be at least 400 degrees in the process and would probably fry the rubber diaph., so I am going to have to take it off anyway. That looks like a mother bear to pry off with a screwdriver around the crimp, Mo...I envision lots of abrasions on my hands

The A3 diaphragm cap has a much tighter crimp than the a4 unit. it is (as I discoverd) almost impossible to disassemble one of these units.