$5 FIX mk5 EGR cooler diverter leak (hissing)

So there are 2 paths inside the cooler, cooled side and non cooled side?

I though the valve actually controls how much exhaust gas goes into the intake, and not which path it takes (cooled or non cooled). If its just he path it controls then yea ECU has no clue and the valve can just be left in any position you wish.
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Yes. Two paths, one direct and one that diverts EGR gases through the cooler. Theoretically, this aids in engine warm up in very cold temperatures.

Personally, I don't know. My biggest hang up on installing a new cooler was knowing that I would have to replace it again. The average lifetime of a BRM EGR cooler seems to be about 120k, for me that's a little over a year in mileage. Hence my interest in finding a solution that doesn't involve replacing a bad part with a known bad part.

Yea I agree with you, not only is it gonna fail again but the cooler doesn't look easy to take out from under there. Space is super limited as you know. I'm a lazy ass, I didn't even want to disconnect the axle to make more room.

If I knew this info before I probably would have cut off the shaft too and then just patched the entire opening with the putty/epoxy so that it seals better which in turn should = better turbo boost.

One thing I do wonder: is the exhaust gas getting cooled at idle and NOT getting cooler at higher RPMs or is it opposite. You probably don't want too much HOT gas going to the coolant all the time, not sure if that could cause overhearing of the coolant/motor.
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Quick update. My repair as documented above is still holding fine best I can tell. No hissing. Don't have a mileage number but the car is driving every day.

I'm also working on a car with a badly leaking EGR cooler at 106k miles. I'd like to try the furnace cement but intend to leave the valve, shaft, and linkage all as they are. I was hoping someone had tried this cement with the shaft intact to see if it cured to it. I may just apply some anti-seize compound on the shaft lightly with a small brush or something because starting this repair to make sure it stay's free. If the furnace cement is really really adhesive stuff I'm afraid it will adhere to the shaft and that will be that.

If I have to remove the cooler to do a better repair that's fine with me. If I can get it done without, even better. I'm OCD so I bet removing the cooler is going to have to happen to make me happy.

I was thinking about cramming foil in for most of it and leaving the last little bit for a cement of some sort.

I'm feeling removing the cooler may make for a much easier time making a good quality repair for this leak. I'm going to crawl under it again tomorrow during the oil change and see if I change my mind. LOL

Cement mixed with foil will probably give a bit better wear resistance. At the very least the foil will provide a bearing surface in place of the brass or bronze bushing. I did it on my '06 and passed 40k miles after the fix without a problem. I'd note that furnace cement is by it's nature impervious to the acids produced by combustion. Brass or bronze bushings not so much so. The $5.00 "fix" even at every 40k miles is quick and easy. Maybe a better solution than a cheap brass bushing surrounded by an expensive EGR cooler/warmer.

Sometimes "down and dirty" is best.

Anyone in AZ that has done this that could help me with one, even anyone knows a shop willing to do this?
can't see spending 800$ for a new installed one
OR, Its been leaking/hissing sound for 2 months, any harm to leave it as is?
thanks

Cedric.

If you leave things as they are you're asking for trouble if from nothing but the fumes. At some point the leak will be bad enough to cause boost problems and an associated CEL. This not to mention that the exhaust products are corrosive and tend to degrade rubber components.

If you have any mechanical talent this procedure is very easy. Just make very sure the car is safe to work under. Whether you remove the actuator and block the vacuum hose (easier) or elect to leave everything in place doesn't seem to be an issue. If you go the former route I might suggest leaving the valve in the halfway position. Just don't postpone the job as it really needs to be addressed.

I can't raise the car or work on it myself at this time.
I need to find someone to perform the cheap fix, or do the expensive fix, or just sell the car.
thanks Nord

I have nothing to add or inspire with just a compliment. Great post.... The cause, prevention, and the fix all at an economical 5 dollars. I would bet that VW engineers have eyes on what happens here. Or one would hope. Cant be making any friends with the parts people out there tough.. Going to keep an ear for this and wack the putty to it when it starts. Thanks.

Do yourself a favor and put the valve in the open position and heli-arc the opening completely shut. Or, like Frank does, pull the unit, remove the flap, remove the shaft and heli-arc the hole shut. You don't need a working butterfly valve but it is a good idea to have a EGR Cooler.

Well, this morning I'm re-attempting the fix on my valve. As I posted earlier, I'd tried the repair about 8 months ago. I used Quick Steel that came in tubes and it was much too runny for the job. I got the stuff in there, but it was in multiple layers and probably didn't get into the places it needed to, or at least it ran back out. It's been leaking noticeably for at least 4 or 5 months. When I got under the car this morning most of the old repair had deteriorated and was easily chipped out with an O-ring pick.

I found JB Weld "High Heat" putty type epoxy yesterday. It's supposed to be good to 500 deg. F and was recommended for repairs like exhaust manifolds and tailpipes, so hopefully it will hold up. The two parts come in a concentric cylinder. You cut off a piece and kneed it to mix. On my pre-application test, it remained pliable for well over 5 minutes, so it clearly sets much slower than the Quick Weld.

I just finished pushing the epoxy into the valve and I'm waiting for it to set up a little before I twist the shaft to loosen it. I was able to fill the cavity, re-install the retainer clip, and force more epoxy in before it set up. So far, so good.

Hugh
2006.5 Jetta TDI

Minor update. After letting the JB Weld "High Heat" set up for about 45 minutes, I twisted the valve to break the seal and then pushed the putty down just a little to hopefully ensure I had a tight seal around the shaft.

When I came back to check it a couple of hours later (initial set was supposed to take 1 hour with full cure in 8 hours), the shaft would not move. Oh well. At any rate, it is well-sealed and shouldn't leak any more. I'll post up again in a few months and let you know how this stuff holds up long-term.

BTW- what is the "default" position for the valve- through the cooler or by-passing the cooler?

Hugh
2006.5 Jetta TDI

So the original repair that I documented with photos earlier in this thread turned out only to last about a year or 10,000 miles. The epoxy eventually crumbled somewhat like the original bushing did. So today I decided to try something different. I'm trying the JB Weld hi heat putty mentioned by poster "whodom" a few posts above. That putty has a much longer working time so I certainly would not try to use the earlier putty Quiksteel mentioned in this thread. This time I decided to deactivate the valve and just completely remove the vacuum motor, attachment clip, and use the putty to completely fill the cavity up underneath the bracket. My hope is that this will help the repair to stay in place since it is wedged in the cavity and under the lever arm and the arm longer has to rotate. I left the bracket at about the 80% cooled-flow position.

So there are many posts here and elsewhere where people have just welded the whole butterfly valve shut no longer having a functioning valve. This seemed to have worked out fine, so I'm doing the same but I'm just using epoxy in place on the vehicle to make it easier without the welding or cooler removal. I plugged the vacuum line that went to the motor. Ill update later as to how this works out.

Any update on sealing it shut with jb weld high temp,? I live up north in Canada, temperatures get cold I would want the keep the valve open 100% all the time, to have faster warm up time, but little worried about the summer time where temperatures are higher? I'm assuming the cooling system can keep up? Thanks

Once deleted this pesky cooler will never bother you again.

GreenLantern_TDI said:

Once deleted this pesky cooler will never bother you again.

Click to expand...

Agreed. I repaired mine twice before I gave up and sealed the hole.

My coolant temps have measured a consistent 188-190 via ScanGauge in ambient temps of 20-100+. I think your car will be fine.

As you can see i run in Iowa. 4 months outa the year were below zero. And aome years were below 40*c and f. And my cooler is deleted. Its not needed if you block grill. Block your grill below freezing and toull be fine. I leave mine blocked up to 50*f.

Years ago I slid a thin piece of stainless between the flanges of the exhaust manifold and egr cooler to eliminate what I thought was a leak at the egr cooler valve shaft. Turns out the hissing sound was a boost hose o ring leak and not from the egr. With the RC-1 tune that eliminates the egr function already installed in my tdi would I get quicker engine warm up if I would remove the thin block off plate even though the egr function is turned off by the tune ??

No it wouldnt warm up faster since as youve stated the egr function is removed with the RC+1. Malone offers a dynamic EGR function.

well I heard the tell tale hiss coming from under the car a couple of days back. I took a quick look to verify the valve and then sourced some high temp 450-500F JB weld. Stated cure time 1 hour, but it took longer due to its cold out. Had no SS so re-purposed a circular saw blade into a cover plate. Put the clip in VW spare parts bin (which is steadily growing) and snugged on the support plate. I sure hope it stays warm enough in the garage to set the putty.. I gave it a try anyway and it sounds better I just hope it lasts as long as supak111.. Special thanks to everyone especially Bondtimbond and supak111 for there efforts I learned alot of details from both that helped the job go smoother with no casualties.
This is my first VW, I like the car but it likes attention. I bought it used 2 years ago. Since I have replaced: Right hand front wheel bearing back to OEM due to cruise issue, Cam shaft and followers due to break down on vacation, all four break cylinders due to lack of maintenance, Drivers window switch controller due to greenies, 4 glow plugs due to one bad one. fuel line at filter due to leak, Pads and rotors don't count. I keep the car looking like a new penny and chase any rust that VW wont cover.. Hope this keeps me out of the garage till spring at least... Thanks again tdiclub..

What years does this apply to, 2006 only?

Update on my repair using high-temp JB Weld: ~7 months and ~8000 miles and it's still holding up with no leaks (knock on wood).

Hugh
2006.5 Jetta TDI

Figured I'd update mine as well. EGR cooler shaft removed and hole filled with high-temp furnace cement and a steel cover plate September 2014. 61,000-ish miles later as of today, no leaks.

So I have this leak (verified with soapy water) I used quick steel. I took out a hard brittle bushing and cleaned the area really well with brake cleaner. Shoved the stuff in the hole sll around, put the bushing clip in, and shoved more in it. After 2 hours, I out the valve back on and buttoned everything back up. Took it for a driver after two hours of mixing the quick steel and I still smell the exhaust in the cabin. Going to lift it and spray some soapy water on the quick steel and see if it's still leaking.

Lmannyr said:

So I have this leak (verified with soapy water) I used quick steel. I took out a hard brittle bushing and cleaned the area really well with brake cleaner. Shoved the stuff in the hole sll around, put the bushing clip in, and shoved more in it. After 2 hours, I out the valve back on and buttoned everything back up. Took it for a driver after two hours of mixing the quick steel and I still smell the exhaust in the cabin. Going to lift it and spray some soapy water on the quick steel and see if it's still leaking.

Click to expand...

I suspect you operated the car too early after install of the repair. It takes overnight for the epoxy to truly harden in my experience. Also, while quick steel will work for awhile, we have since found that JB Weld high heat seems to work better and doesn't setup as fast. That is documented in this thread also.

I couldn't find JB high heat locally. Tried home improvement stores, Wally World, 3 different auto part stores. I settled for quick steel.

I did find a different quick steel made by blue magic that is a putty and is high heat (2000f) as well. But it fully cures in 24 hours.

I took the old quick steel out and trying again now. Will let it sit over night till I have to go to work. Fingers crossed.

Well, I believe it's stil leaking. The drive to work filled the cabin with exhaust again. Once I get under the car again later this week, I'll verify with soapy water. Next I'll just seal the whole hole up. Which way do I turn the lever to close the valve? Or should I keep it open? Or maybe I'll do a delete.

See my earlier post in this thread from last year where I seal it up totally, positioning the lever in a mid position. Your exhaust gas smell might be coming from elsewhere, since if you just put epoxy in I can't imagine it can leak enough right away to create the smell. On my car, even when the repair started leaking and hissing slightly I didn't get a smell.

You have a point. I'll spray soapy water to the various exhaust connections and see if I find another leak. The exhaust entering the cabin is overwhelming. Maybe the leak is coming from a cracked cooler close to the same spot. I don't know. But I've been dealing with this exhaust in the cabin now for 2 years now.

I've changed the EGR cooler gaskets, insured the intake pipes are tight, endured the ring on the passenger turbo side is tight, endured the pipe on the driver side was all the way in and the two bolts holding it were tight as well.

It will be a few days before I can get under her again. :-(