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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old September 28th, 2012, 17:22   #1
gmcjetpilot
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Default Installing a FROSTHEATER coolant block heater

Anyone install a FrostHeater.com coolant/block heater in a TDI 2009 or later Golf/Jetta Sportwagen? Appreciate any heads up, tricks, tips.....

I just ordered one. It does not get real cold in Tennessee, but I have a new commute, much shorter. I figure this would be a good product to have a warm car in the morning and maybe lessen a little wear and tear.
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Old September 28th, 2012, 23:10   #2
Efchou
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I did this install last year, you will definitely need a pair of angled needle nose pliers to get at the spring loaded coolant hose clamps, especially the ones closer to the bottom. I did not need to remove the driver side wheel well covering to do the install as suggested by the instructions.

Getting to the air box snorkel clips at the bottom can be a little tough, but a narrow and long flat head screwdriver can get at it, otherwise use the angled needle nose pliers again.

Get a couple of good hose clamps or vice grips that can mostly keep the hoses from losing too much coolant, and a drip pan underneath just In case! Don't forget to pick up a bottle of concetrated g21 coolant to refill the reservoir with, since you're adding a new component to the system, it will suck down a bunch of coolant initially.

This is also a good time to clean and inspect the large intercooler hose since it has to come off for the install. Having a second person helps when routing the lower hose so they can guide it for you.

Retighten the clamps after a week or so, then on a yearly basis.

Don't forget to enjoy those m&m's that come with the kit!
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Old September 28th, 2012, 23:23   #3
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Oh yeah, a good set of ramps too! Petersen's UR9020 ramps are good since they have the extenders!
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Old September 29th, 2012, 05:59   #4
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Also since you have a dsg make sure there is no thermostat in the coolant line that runs to the trans cooler. Your new heater will not work if it is left in there. It's not hard to gut while u have it all apart just taking it all back apart sucks.
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Old September 29th, 2012, 14:02   #5
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I would buy extra wire ties about 12 inch long.You need them for the hose that goes behind the fan.A 1/4 inch swivel combination socket and a hose clamp tool.Pm me if you want some pictures or any question.


Tom
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Old October 1st, 2012, 11:23   #6
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Thanks for the input.... Onefast66Nova Do the instructions mention the removal or gutting of the thermostat?

What kind of hose PINCH tools should I buy, I don't have any. I see Vice Grip kind and how many do I need?

I have some LONG needle nose pliers both stright and angle, but I might as well get some hose clamp tools.
I see eBay has some remote activated hose clamp pliers from $20 to $50..... are they needed and handy or not useful and overkill?
MonsterTDI09, what kind of hose clamps do you recommend?
Efchou, ramps are easier than jacking and putting supports under the wheels. I might break down and pop for some of those.

Thanks!
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Old October 1st, 2012, 12:35   #7
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This is what I used.It's a tight fit to get it on.it does work.On 09 and 10 don't have a thermostat for the DSG.The first year to have this is in 11.I hope this helps.

http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-c...&blockType=L12


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3...7&blockType=L7


http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-1...&blockType=L31
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Old October 1st, 2012, 13:20   #8
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I'm also looking at installing a Frostheater in my 2012 JSW w/DSG but I'm wondering what repercussions there might be in removing the DSG thermostat?(ie. -function and
warranty. Any thoughts?
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Old October 1st, 2012, 13:28   #9
StevenL
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Has anyone any experience of putting these on a UK car? I know id need a 110v transformer but wasnt sure if the pipework is the same.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 05:04   #10
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Yes I believe frostheater ha updated the instructions since I have installed mine. I went to harbor freight and bought two of the vice grip hose clamp pliers and they worked fine.
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 14:36   #11
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Yea a reason to buy tools. I have a ton of tools but nothing for working on coolant hose. I went with some Rhino Ramps from Wal-Mart for $43.
The are light, strong and nest in each other to save space. From eBay for $18 to the door, I got remote hose clamp tool. Then a trip to
Harbor Freight to get some hose "pinch" clamps that are supposed to be excellent ($9). I also got some work gloves, hose pick tool, hose
removal tool to grab the hose and a set of three Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers for $14. If I don't need any of these HF tools, I won't use them
and take them back. I also got a deluxe electronic timer for $11 at HF, when I get the Frostheater installed I can set the timer to start the heater..



see video of tool below (the guys accent made me laugh for reason) http://youtu.be/vjKcGO1YvXE


See this Video for pinch clamps below http://youtu.be/i9Ecvjvutxc

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Old October 3rd, 2012, 08:34   #12
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The Petersen UR9020 recommended above is probably a little better with more chin spoiler clearance, but they would be about $93.
The $43 plastic Wal-Mart ramps will work fine and clear the chin spoiler. A little double wood wedge to extend the ramp and reduce the
overall angle would help on even lower cars, but does not look like it needs it. For a Ferrari or Corvette, would not work well I'd imagine.
Neither of these cars are in my foreseeable near future so this ramp will do.




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Old October 5th, 2012, 19:11   #13
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Kit came with detailed instructions and lots of color pics. Thanks Terry.
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Old October 28th, 2012, 19:49   #14
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Finally got it done, 7 hours (plus more to clean up). I would like to say how easy it is... in a way it is, but there were challenges. About an hour to set up and remove the cover, airbox, inner front forward wheel wheel and belly pan. About the same to button up. So that is two hours. The core of the work took 3 hours, but I had some struggles getting the hose onto the oil cooler and locating the heater unit. Then another 2 hours with head scratching and the usual looking for dropped fasteners...
(EDIT looks like I might have a thermostat in the system which some DSG cars have, and I have to disable it. I forgot to set the timer last night. So I plugged it before work, when I got up. I only got an hour of run time of heater on a cold engine. The top hose from the Frostheater was hot. It did seem to warm up faster, but it indicated dead cold when I started. I either have that thermostat or it was not on long enough. We'll see tomorrow. PROBLEM SOLVED, I screwed up the bottom hose; it was kinked. The instructions are clear how to route it. Fixed it last night and this morning... ahhhh full temp and heater at start. NICE. Now all I have to do is figure out how to plug it in at work... the boss might be suspicious if I run a 1000' extension chord out to my car... Ha ha.)

I did not use any of the special tools I bought, except the hose clamps. I followed the instructions except a few deviations mentioned below.

The Skunks Work. I just moved so I did not have all my tools, but made do with what I had.


These are the hose clamp-off tools I bought to reduce fluid loss, but frankly I would just skip them and get a pan to catch the gallon of 50/50 that will drain. If you are careful, use a clean catch pan you can reuse it. You can run it through a coffee filter if you like, but it was not worth it to me. I just brought it to a local repair shop to disgard (DON'T THROW IT DOWN THE DRAIN PLEASE, AND DOGS LOVE THE STUFF. IT WILL KILL THEM DEAD.) Remember DON'T USE 100% glycol, use 50/50 with distilled water. Make sure you buy some distilled water and the proper VW coolant stuff. It tops off very nicely. I drained almost exactly a gallon and was able to put that back in through the reservoir, almost in one shot. The resrvoir is the high point and the fluid was able to fill the system. After I started up, shut down, ran the frost heater for a few minutes. I was able to put the last cup in. After test drive the level is perfect. The special tools I bought above, remote hose clamp tool and special long reach pliers with funny ends were not needed. I did use my longer reach needle nose pliers but not the ones with funny ends. The only thing that came in handy were the ramps and the hose clamps, but again the clamps in the way, I took them off and let it drain.



This is the three new hose clamps for the kit where you spice in the heater in series before the oil cooler. There is a lower hose and upper hose from the heater. I deviated from the instructions. It says DO NOT remove the hoses from the frost heater, they are clocked and so on. They come preinstalled and clamped down That is fine, but it forces you to route hoses from bottom up to attach to oil cooler nipple. The bottom hose has a 180 turn to get the oil cooler. I could not get it on the oil cooler nipple. I removed the bottom hose from heater and attached it to oil cooler from top, then routed the hose from top down. You have to be careful not to twist, kink or pinch it. Then tightening the lower hose clamp on the oil cooler is a pain... Get a 1/4" socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, universal flex couple and extensions of different lengths. I got my metric stuff out of storage but not my US sockets. The hose clamps can be turned by screw driver but it is a PIA and you can't get them tight. I borrowed a 1/4" socket from a new neighbor and was able to finish the job. (THIS PICTURE BELOW SHOWS A MISTAKE, THE BOTTOM HOSE COMES FORWARD AND AROUND THE WIRE HARNESS, FAIRLY CLOSE TO THE RADIATOR FAN AND THEN DOWN. THE WAY I HAD IT KINKED THE HOSE AND KEPT IT FROM WORKING INITIALLY. FIXED NOW, LOOKS JUST LIKE THE PICTURE IN INSTALLATION MANUAL. WORKS GREAT!)




Besides the lower hose attach to oil cooler, a PIA, the mounting of the heater is unit above inter-cooler hose is PIA. It takes a lot of fiddling to get it to fit. I made an optional trim of off one of the corner mount lugs, on heater housing, to make a little more room. It is not necessary, but what the heck, I have a little dremel cutoff wheel tool. I should have done it on the bench with a hacksaw; it would be easier and could take off more than just the corner.



Another deviation was how I mounted the power chord. This is only temporary but for now the chord is under the hood on the driver side between the air box and battery. The eventual plan is get a nice custom connector to mount somewhere external, grill may be. The connector will not be a standard three prong 120V but a flat MOLEX type that chassis mounts. I will make a short adaptor pig tail to plug into the small Molex type socket and the other end a standard 120V AC extension cord female plug. I will cut the excess wire from the Frost Heater. For now having it under the hood works great, might just leave it. Having a AC cord jammed into the lower grill just looks bad to me, and it is subject to getting dirty and corroded.



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Old October 29th, 2012, 10:24   #15
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Nice Job, Yes it's tight fit.I hope those propane tanks are empty
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