Help needed with a 00’

Rob02f350 · Oct 12, 2019

Hey guys.
Have a few issues going on I need some help with.

Coming to a stop, not every time but at low speeds the abs is coming on till I come to a stop. No wheels are locking up, no abs lights. Thoughts?

Cruise controll inoperable. Think it’s the switch but can’t monitor it in the ECM. I don’t have the software.

Need a timing belt job done in 10k miles.

Not too bad for 362k miles, daily driver.

Thanks guys, any help appreciated.

Rob02f350 · Oct 12, 2019

Ooh. And maybe a low boost problem. It runs at 10 psi max with rc2 tunes and vnt17 turbo

flee · Oct 12, 2019

Obviously scanning with VCDS will help you troubleshoot this.
Seeing that the brakes and boost are both problematic I would check for a vacuum leak, too.

Rob02f350 · Oct 12, 2019

flee said:
Obviously scanning with VCDS will help you troubleshoot this.
Seeing that the brakes and boost are both problematic I would check for a vacuum leak, too.

Setting up a time with PeterV to scan it. No lights are on.
Just recently, last weekend. Replaced the vacuum pump. And the leaking line to the brake booster.. all other vacuum lines are newly replaced under a year. The abs problem started a week before.

For the last year. 10 psi boost has been all the gauge reads. Never thought much about it. Still pulling 45-50 mpg

Meister Kraft · Oct 12, 2019

Lets start with the simple things

I would remove wheels, inspect tone ring for damage, check resistance of wheel speed sensors, remove wheel speed sensors and visually inspect for damage. Clean all parts with a dry rag, then I would rotate my wheels after have a good hard look at each tire.

Resistance: 1000 ohms to 1300 ohms (front/rear)
Air gap: 0.3mm

Torque the wheels and test

Post the VCDS Log when you can, that will help us all out.

wonneber · Oct 13, 2019

2x on check the tone rings.
Can of spray air to blow dirt out of the teeth.

If a sensor was open circuit it would turn the ABS light on with the key on.
Doesn't mean the system is getting a good signal if the teeth are dirty or a sensor it to far from a ring.

Maybe sneak into a parts store & ask for a free scan?
If their scanner is a good one it may catch intermittent or pending codes.
Not sure if ABS has them.

VCDS would help.
Maybe someone here in your area who has VCDS can help?
Do you have a lap top?

Rob02f350 · Oct 13, 2019

Meister Kraft said:
Lets start with the simple things
I would remove wheels, inspect tone ring for damage, check resistance of wheel speed sensors, remove wheel speed sensors and visually inspect for damage. Clean all parts with a dry rag, then I would rotate my wheels after have a good hard look at each tire.
Resistance: 1000 ohms to 1300 ohms (front/rear)
Air gap: 0.3mm
Torque the wheels and test
Post the VCDS Log when you can, that will help us all out.

Thank you for the spec on the wheel speed sensors.
I figured I should check all the wheel bearings first, found one loose one. Drivers front with no noise. Happen to stock front wheel bearings so a quick job. And abs problem is gone. Have wheels bearings down to 30 minutes probably lol

Meister Kraft · Oct 13, 2019

Rob02f350 said:
Thank you for the spec on the wheel speed sensors.
I figured I should check all the wheel bearings first, found one loose one. Drivers front with no noise. Happen to stock front wheel bearings so a quick job. And abs problem is gone. Have wheels bearings down to 30 minutes probably lol

You’re welcome

Glad to hear it’s fixed!

Rob02f350 · Oct 15, 2019

And found one small vacuum leak. Fixed that issue. Still only doing 10psi boost.

Hopefully be meeting up with peter this week, does Vcsd show boost request? Or engine load %?

Almost1 · Oct 15, 2019

Rob02f350 said:
And found one small vacuum leak. Fixed that issue. Still only doing 10psi boost.

Hopefully be meeting up with peter this week, does Vcsd show boost request? Or engine load %?

Yes, both

jokila · Oct 15, 2019

Rob02f350 said:
And found one small vacuum leak. Fixed that issue. Still only doing 10psi boost.

Hopefully be meeting up with peter this week, does Vcsd show boost request? Or engine load %?

It can show you turbo specified vs turbo actual. and other things.

Meister Kraft · Oct 15, 2019

Rob02f350 said:
And found one small vacuum leak. Fixed that issue. Still only doing 10psi boost.
Hopefully be meeting up with peter this week, does Vcsd show boost request? Or engine load %?

Can you confirm the units, share with us what gauge is being used?

Video of a good tech explaining why it’s important (also a VW owner)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vtfCmFgcO4s&t=888s

I suspect since you haven’t mentioned a check engine light or a limp mode the guage that is in use, is programmed or calibrated for PSIG and not PSI. I might be wrong, I can’t see the vehicle after all.

Rob02f350 · Oct 16, 2019

Meister Kraft said:
Can you confirm the units, share with us what gauge is being used?

Video of a good tech explaining why it’s important (also a VW owner)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vtfCmFgcO4s&t=888s

I suspect since you haven’t mentioned a check engine light or a limp mode the guage that is in use, is programmed or calibrated for PSIG and not PSI. I might be wrong, I can’t see the vehicle after all.

Gauge being used is a Autometer mechanical boost pressure gauge. Reads in PSIG sorry for not being that specific. So it does not take in to account atmospheric pressure. It was installed 1 year ago.

No check engine lights or limp mode. The car, before replacing the turbo a year ago would over boost and then go in to limp mode.

The car runs good. Seems a low on power on the hills and currently driving to my girlfriends house is literally through the mountains of Nh to VT. It will pull 4th gear say 25-2800 rpm 9psig Boost. That’s all it’s got. Puts me around what 60 mph? Can’t remember exactly. But 5th gear it will bog and lug down.

Unless this is all the engine does. Lol. But I’ll run 680 miles a tank and pull 48 mpg. As of yesterday mornings fill up.

Meister Kraft · Oct 16, 2019

Rob02f350 said:
Gauge being used is a Autometer mechanical boost pressure gauge. Reads in PSIG sorry for not being that specific. So it does not take in to account atmospheric pressure. It was installed 1 year ago.
No check engine lights or limp mode. The car, before replacing the turbo a year ago would over boost and then go in to limp mode.
The car runs good. Seems a low on power on the hills and currently driving to my girlfriends house is literally through the mountains of Nh to VT. It will pull 4th gear say 25-2800 rpm 9psig Boost. That’s all it’s got. Puts me around what 60 mph? Can’t remember exactly. But 5th gear it will bog and lug down.
Unless this is all the engine does. Lol. But I’ll run 680 miles a tank and pull 48 mpg. As of yesterday mornings fill up.

No need to be sorry, it helps me process what’s installed!

Factory spec is 1700-2200mbar in 3rd gear at 3000rpm

Looks like you are right, around 6psi short of max spec but right at the low end, that explains why no codes.

I would get the mityvac back out and check for leaks, and adjust the turbo actuator. The rod will start to move around 4inhg and should come in contact with the stop screw around 22inhg. Look for boost leaks, and inspect the intake for a large amount of soot chocking it.

TSB:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/Actuator_TSB.pdf

Video:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=A476plY-sjo

Rob02f350 · Oct 18, 2019

Case solved with a test drive with vagcom connected. All the air flows. Boost. Etc. request and measures were dam close to the same. According to Peter, who’s car is a little more modified than mine says it’s quite good on power.

Thanks for the help guys. Now to swap the cruise controll stalk and hope that flexes that problem

Help needed with a 00’

Rob02f350

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