I just replaced all the coolant hoses on my 98 tdi... Replace all of them, if 1 is leaking , the others will soon follow... idparts has them all for cheap...... get rid of those spring clamps also..they suck when you need to remove one....
That's their superpower over worm clamps for sure.] Think of them as constant tension clamps, which automatically adjust for temperature.
KLXD is correct, with the right tool they’re easy. Think of them as constant tension clamps, which automatically adjust for temperature. I just replaced the worm drive clamps on a B4 with the originals from my stash because the coolant hoses were leaking when the car warmed up.
There isn’t a 110V electrical cord in sight.Any of the three frostplugs:
is there a 110V electrical cord in sight?
Is the “hard coolant pipe” you refer to, is it the black narrow one on the US driver side (left side) of the engine, or is it the one connected to the EGR cooler?
Mounted to the left side of the engine at the coolant flange bracket and then turns in the front of the engine and heads to the WP near the oil filter stand.The cooling system on these is really easy to figure out, just trace the hoses you can see. The coolant pipe is easy to find, it runs from one of the heater core lines around the front of the engine and down to a hose going to the WP....
Steve
The pic similar to this pic?In that pic you posted at 1:52pm, the plugs are the 3 silver circles in the middle, black section of the engine (the block).
1. If we’re unlucky it’s the center freeze plug behind the turbo,so would there be a temporary fix possible, such as a blob of JB Weld two part metal epoxy!?If it’s a freeze plug good luck, without pulling at least the turbo, dp and axle. There isn’t a lot of room to work, back there. I foresee a lot of struggling and cursing.
I agree, but have you seen the car in question? All his other threads, his pics, seriously the car is barely an organ donor. The turbocharger will be a pain to remove, what isn't a greasy mess with be rusted stuck with things breaking. The block is likely a big lump of rust, it'll certainly need ALL the plugs replaced. Is *that* car really, honestly, worth the effort?That's the 5 minute part of the job, once the turbo is out, the old plug has been removed bit by bit (depending on how rusted out it is it come apart in pieces) and the hole cleaned and prepped.
Because it's rusting out there's no temporary blob of anything that will patch it. The system is hot and under 15 psi of pressure, even if the plug itself wasn't rusting apart.
There's no luck involved: time to roll up the sleeves, pour some more water in there to confirm the location of the leak (prime suspect: the frost plug directly behind the turbo where the rust trail is and where water has clearly been washing away the oil from whatever is leaking oil back there) and fire up the wrenches.
Any attempt to binder-twine it together will absolutely leave you by the side of the road at the worst possible time.
I have no choice, I have no other car, I can’t afford buying another car right now, I must learn how to remove the downpipe and turbo and any other parts in the way by referring to guides and kind advice and even actual in-real-life mechanical help from TDIclub forum members.Is *that* car really, honestly, worth the effort?