Poor man's cam seal replacement

JettaTDIBlack said:

I had done that. But, the vise grips didn't do the trick. Someone really torqued that one. The rest come off easily.

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WildChild80 said:

You could always try a 12 point socket over the top of it like the anti theft lug nuts...

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JettaTDIBlack said:

I thought of that but I am left with my six point 10mm socket after losing my 12 point one.

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WildChild80 said:

Or do you have any of those cheap socket sets you get for Christmas that aren't that great but make great tools for times like this

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WildChild80 said:

There ya go...

I always see those times as a challenge and I meet it with more determination than the bolt has...and yes sometimes I talk to it...might not be nice to it either but I usually win...

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JettaTDIBlack said:

I appriciate you reminding me about the anti-theft lug removal technique.

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WildChild80 said:

I like to think I have a delicately destructive side that escalates as needed...hence the name wild child...my best friend called me that and it stuck...that was almost 20 years ago.

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WildChild80 said:

I love this forum! I try to give as much as I can because it's helped me so many times...

Been there and know completely how frustrating it is when you can't get them off, my problem child was closer to the EGR valve and was a royal pain

I had to use that refer because it reminds me of the club anti theft device...saw through the wheel and it's gone. Also like door locks, they only keep honest people honest, if they want in, you've probably got windows that are much easier than a door lock

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JettaTDIBlack said:

I have a similar nickname for the same reason.

Since, I am wanting to just replace the cam seal. Once I set the cam to TDC, can I get away with taking the top idler pulley off and use bungee cords to hold the belt in place. Take the cam sprocket off and properly install seal and reassemble after the seal sets?


I am praying the front crank seal is fine.

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WildChild80 said:

You have to lock the cam and pump. You can use a flat file and a sawzall blade or 2 it just needs to be fairly snug and I think it's a 5/32 drill bit works for the IP... pretty much, you're doing about half the steps of a timing belt job, the super critical steps

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JettaTDIBlack said:

I can only imagine the one near the EGR, did you have to remove it?

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WildChild80 said:

The tensioner is your next hurdle, I have had good luck with snap ring pliers to retention the belt.

But yes you can proceed pretty much as you said...don't need to bungee the belt though, it's got nowhere to go

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JettaTDIBlack said:

Yeah, I don't own a pair of snap ring pliers. That is why I was thinking of removing the top idler pulley and cord idea to release tension.

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WildChild80 said:

I wouldn't, you'll have a very hard time getting the cam pulley back on I would think...

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JettaTDIBlack said:

I was thinking of putting the cam on first then putting the top idler pulley back on.

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